Why go: In a town where great soul food is scarce, this lunch counter/takeout dishes up mouthwatering Southern standards, from fried chicken to collards, in generous portions.
What to get: Batter-fried chicken wings and boneless breasts; well-seasoned beef or turkey meatloaf with a pale golden gravy; Cajun turkey “chop,” a pounded-thin portion of rib meat doused in spices and deep-fried; a mildly spicy broiled whiting that refutes the notion that all great soul food is fried; cinnamony candied yams; cornbread; super-cheesy mac and cheese—no Velveeta here.
Best for: Satisfying comfort-food cravings; takeout for a crowd or picnic.
Insider tip: The fried chicken wings and waffles on the postmidnight menu hit the spot after a U Street pub crawl.
Open Tuesday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.
See all Cheap Eats 2008 restaurants
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
