Why go: The richly layered curries—their heat gentle and insistent, never overpowering—will make you forget about the plain digs and sometimes-surly service.
What to get: A hearty version of the eggplant stew baingan barta; the best malai kofta in the area, the soft veggie dumplings bound in a velvety almond gravy; bright, tangy chicken tikka masala, its gravy vivified by a dollop of tomato paste; incendiary lamb vindaloo; Kashmiri naan, its surface studded with almonds and cherries.
Best for: Vegetarians and diners seeking complex, often luxurious cooking.
Insider tip: Ordering takeout—the preference of many customers during the week—can be a challenge; call ahead 45 minutes or more.
Open daily for lunch and dinner.
See all 2008 Cheap Eats restaurants
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
