Food

100 Best Restaurants 2009: Montmartre

No. 48: Montmartre

Cuisine: Stephane Lezla’s soulful bistro fare induces nostalgia for Paris. His specials may dabble in fusion, but the simple, robust plates keep regulars coming back.

Mood: It’s a few blocks from the Capitol, but you might think you were on the Left Bank. Every evening, couples and foursomes of all ages stream into the dining room for comfort, French style.

Best for: Francophiles; a weekday dinner or special-occasion meal.

Best dishes: House-made country pâté; two items on the summer menu, silky eggplant-and-pine-nut mousse and cassoulet with duck-leg confit; braised rabbit legs over linguine; sautéed calf’s liver; pear-marzipan tart; chocolate mousse.

Insider tips: The help is often challenged by the cramped space. Tables by the window have the most breathing room.

Service: ••

Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. Moderate.

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