Where can you get a three-star experience at one-star prices? Which hot new restaurant merits the scorching hype? The answer to all these questions and more can be found Tuesdays at 11 AM on Kliman Online.
reports, tips, and breaking news from the culinary world.
W H E R E I ‘ M E A T I N G N O W . . .
Green Pig Bistro, Arlington One Moa, Rockville R&R Taqueria, Elkridge Best Mexican food in the area, and it’s not even close. And–it’s in a gas station. Worth the drive to Elkridge. Maple Avenue, Vienna ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. This Week‘s Contest: The Great Restaurant Mashup Morning, chatters. Your challenge today is to create a new restaurant by combining elements of two existent Washington-area eateries. Maybe you’d like to dig into the bright and bold flavors of Little Serow while enjoying the creature comforts–cushy chairs, soft, glowy lighting, elegantly attentive service–at CityZen. Perhaps you’ve always wanted Bourbon Steak burgers served in the convenient, fast-casual style of a Five Guys or BGR. As always, don’t just tell us about which places you’d mash up–tell us why they’d make a good combination and help us imagine what it would be like to dine there. Todd’s favorite entry wins a copy of Not-So-Humble Pies–featuring recipes like pear gorgonzola tart and blood orange curd pie–by Kelly Jaggers. Your answer should be in the form of an equation, followed by your explanation/justification: So: Little Serow x CityZen = LittleZen (Explanation/justification to follow).
of the best and most intriguing of the current crop of Hipster
Farmhouse restaurants (dishtowel napkins, bluegrass in the air,
repurposed wood and yard-sale tchochkes throughout). The chef, Scot
Harlan, an alumnus of the kitchen at Inox, cooks with precision and
clarity, making light of a plate of crispy pig tacos (the pig, here, is
salty, crunchy matchsticks of julienned ears) and even a country-style
pate. There’s a fantastic drinks menu, and a not-bad selection of
Virginia wines, including a Michael Shaps Cab Franc that sells for $5 a
glass; it’s a perfect match for the rich, porky treats.
never find it if you weren’t looking for it. Situated in the
fascinating industrial sector of Rockville, amid a slew of old
warehouses and specialty supply stores, this cozy Korean mom ‘n’ pop is
about as hidden as hidden gems get. The cooking is vivid and
punchy–great bibimbap, served several ways, along with a parade of
soups, noodle dishes and stir frys. Order a soju to wash it all down;
the mango and watermelon are fresh and gently sweet, a good counterpart
to the garlicky intensity of the food.
diners might be skeptical of splurging for $20 + entrees in a tiny,
repurposed diner where the 8 tables are wedged together so closely the
room can feel like one big dinner party when the drinks are flowing.
Others might be skeptical of the menu, which bends in a dozen different
directions, implying a kitchen with a scattered,
be-everything-to-everyone vision — which is to say, no vision at all.
But this is a surprisingly focused restaurant — and a surprisingly
rewarding one, too, a place that feels like a personal statement, backed
by an amiable staff that clearly aims to send you away smiling. The
chef and owner, Tim Ma, does his part, too. He makes a mean shrimp and
grits, and his beef cheek sandwich with beer battered fries is one of
the best simple plates around. Don’t miss the bread pudding.
Society Fair, Old Town Alexandria
find the room garish, the prices high, the mood presuming. I’m putting
this on here on the strength of two terrific sandwiches — a fabulous
baguette stacked with thin shaved ham and good mustard and lamb shoulder
stuffed into a griddled flatbread with tangy yogurt and spinach — and a
superlative wine list.
Trabocchi’s edge-of-Penn Quarter restaurant has put its tentative
beginnings behind it. The dishes emerging from the brick-framed,
herb-potted kitchen find the prodigiously talented chef moving further
and further from the controlled elegance of his work at the late
Maestro. They also find him cooking with a renewed confidence and
conviction. The best of these plates–an astonishingly flavorful ragu of
wild hare with thick bands of papardelle, a double-cut,
prosciutto-wrapped veal chop with toasted hazelnuts that accent the
sweetness and nuttiness of the meat, a bowl of tender meatballs in a
tomato sauce that frankly puts most Italian grandmothers to shame–marry
rusticity with refinement. Desserts–including a fabulous cone of
sugar-dusted bomboloni, with pots of apple marmalade and cinnamon
gelato–remain a rousing finish.
Sidebar, Silver Spring
Diana Davila-Boldin, a Windy City native, has improved upon her Chicago
dog — grilling the link, griddling the bun and overloading the ripe,
fresh toppings. The result? The best dog in Washington, and better than
any Chicago dog I have ever had in Chicago. I’d give this
poolhall/hipster bar/cafe a spot on the list just for that, but I also
love her mini-falafel, her homemade sausages, her cod fritters, and the
cochinita tacos that amount to a glorious precis of El Chucho’s Cocina
Superior — Jackie Greenbaum’s forthcoming “inauthentic Mexican”
restaurant, in Columbia Heights.
Mintwood Place, DC
owner Saied Azali was lucky to land Cedric Maupillier, formerly the
chef at Central and before that the chef de cuisine at Citronelle, for
his rusticky new bistro. The Toulon native is doing typically great
work–cranking out lovingly faithful renditions of such bistro classics
as cassoulet (see if you can finish it without two glasses of wine) and
steak tartare (the tiny, crunchy tater tots on top are a clever allusion
to his old boss, Michel Richard) as well as offering up some sly, smart
takes on tradition (frogs’ legs with black walnut romesco, a lamb
tongue moussaka). There’s a whole boneless dorade with picholine olives
and braised fennel that’s a knockout–beautifully conceived, perfectly
largest Ethiopian restaurant in the country, according to owner Meaza
Zemedu, if you count the butcher shop, grocery and banquet room in
addition to the dining room itself. Which wouldn’t mean much at all if
Zemedu wasn’t a talented cook who commands such a focused and
consistent kitchen. Her wats, or long-simmered stews, are remarkable for
their depth and length. The kitfo is superb, akin to a great beef
tartare in its blending and balance of spices.
best wine bar is eating better than it has since its early months,
thanks to new hire Rob Weland. The erstwhile Poste chef has brought a
seasonal focus to the menu, a welcome development for all those who
regard the place as a regular in their dining-out rotation. More
important is his great gift for making complex combinations feel
inevitable and for imbuing simple arrangements with subtle textures and
East Pearl, Rockville
superlative addition to the unofficial Chinatown of northern Rockville,
this cheery, subtly modish restaurant is turning out uncommonly
clean-tasting versions of standard Hong Kong-style fare, including
shrimp dumpling soup, shrimp with walnuts, and soyed chicken–all
spectacular. And don’t miss a Shanghai-style noodle dish that brings
together angel hair, roast pork, shrimp, green onions and a generous
spoonful of yellow curry powder into a light, greaseless and remarkably
Green Pig Bistro, Arlington
R&R Taqueria, Elkridge
Best Mexican food in the area, and it’s not even close. And–it’s in a gas station. Worth the drive to Elkridge.
Maple Avenue, Vienna
This Week‘s Contest: The Great Restaurant Mashup
Your challenge today is to create a new restaurant by combining elements of two existent Washington-area eateries.
Maybe you’d like to dig into the bright and bold flavors of Little Serow while enjoying the creature comforts–cushy chairs, soft, glowy lighting, elegantly attentive service–at CityZen. Perhaps you’ve always wanted Bourbon Steak burgers served in the convenient, fast-casual style of a Five Guys or BGR.
As always, don’t just tell us about which places you’d mash up–tell us why they’d make a good combination and help us imagine what it would be like to dine there. Todd’s favorite entry wins a copy of Not-So-Humble Pies–featuring recipes like pear gorgonzola tart and blood orange curd pie–by Kelly Jaggers.
Your answer should be in the form of an equation, followed by your explanation/justification:
Little Serow x CityZen = LittleZen
(Explanation/justification to follow).
Gramercy Tavern and Dino have snakefish on their menu. Have you ever tasted the snakehead fish? Do you like it? Are there any other restaurants that you know of that have snakehead on the menu? I heard that it may be expensive, perhaps because these fish are so dangerous to the eco system, they won’t be around for very long. Thanks Todd.
Oh, there’re more restaurants that have it than just those two.
The Chinese are very fond of snakefish, and though it may not be listed as such on the menus of some of these places, I’d be willing to bet that snakefish is in some dishes — particularly if you were to order off the Chinese menu.
I myself have never tried it — or, not knowingly. I’d like to, knowingly.
I am excited about another ShopHouse opening at 28th and M and really like Axian on Eye Street that one of your chatters recommended earlier. Have you been to Axian? Really good. Anyway, I do not get to go to Annandale or Eden Center often, living in the City without a car. Going to Annandale for Korean this weekend. What are your current favorite places? What are your favorite spots in Eden Center? Thanks.
Haven’t been to Axian. Thanks for that reminder.
As for Annandale and Eden Center, I mean, wow — lots.
OK, my cheat sheets for each.
Annandale (a.k.a. Koreatown), in no particular order:
—Gom Ba Woo
—Honey Pig Gooldaegee
Eden Center (a.k.a. Little Vietnam), in no particular order:
—Thanh Son Tofu
—Pho Xe Lua
—Nhu Lan (for banh mi)
At the Eden Center, in particular, I really don’t think there’s a bad meal to be had. Obviously some are better than others; some are flat-out great. But I don’t think I’ve ever had a meal that was truly disappointing.
Hope this helps, and good luck. I’ll be interested in hearing where you ended up and what you ate and drank …
I have been tasked with bringing scones to a bridal shower this weekend and I won’t have time to bake them myself. Are there any bakeries in the area you can recommend that make great scones? If they’re in MoCo, all the better…
I would try Praline, in Bethesda, and Stella, in Rockville.
My favorite, right now, are the scones at Shortcake Bakery in Hyattsville. They’re real, old-fashioned scones, not the pseudo-cake you find at Starbucks and a lot of other places. They’re a little dry, they crumble, and there’s not too much sugar in there, either. Cheryl Harrington, the owner, makes them in a variety of flavors, including ginger and cranberry.
This is a small shop, independently owned, and takes over for the former Rhode Island Reds. Harrington also bakes fantastic brownies and gingerbread cookies, gorgeous homemade cakes (including coconut and lemon), and makes her own breads (challah every Friday). It’s great to see a from-scratch bakery open anywhere these days. This one’s deserving of wider support.
Good morning Mr. Kliman, and happy belated Mother’s Day to all the hard working Mothers of the Washington DC area.
In response to last week’s chat we would like to take this opportunity to set the record straight with a public response note to the “West Ender” and all readers about the olive oil tasting tray.
Since last Tuesday’s chat, Elisir has experienced an unusual high number of telephone calls inquires about charges for the olive oil and salt tasting tray.
Apparently some readers are now under the impression the restaurant charges a mandatory $5 fee to every guest. That is not the case.
We would like to state that it’s only an option item listed on our dinner menu for $5: a trio of top premium Italian extra virgin olive oils from Liguria, Tuscany and Sicily and three house infused sea salts: Black olives, Basil and Chianti wine.
We think the sea salt and olive oil tasting is a great accent to a meal at Elisir, and many of our guests agree.
But should a diner choose not to order it from the menu, complimentary olive oil (or butter) is always available free of charge.
Furthermore, in regards to the “underwhelmed and bland” first time experience by the “West Ender” diner, Elisir would like to extend a personal invitation to return and to sample us again with the hope to re gain the diner’s trust and approval.
Many thanks for allowing us to set the record straight.
Thank you for writing in.
It’s unfortunate that people took the chatter’s words the wrong way. I’m sure i didn’t help with my added comment about extra charges.
I hope that this sets things straight, and that everyone out there who is concerned about paying for olive oil and salt is now allayed.
I’m interested in throwing this out for discussion, however, before we bury this once and for all, and so I ask all of you reading along —
If you see olive oil or salt as a menu item at a restaurant — as a tasting, with a charge — would you say to yourself: Huh. Interesting.
Or would you say to yourself: Oh, if I want the good stuff, I’m going to have to pay.
Or — what? What do you think when you see something like salt and olive oil listed separately on a menu, as a designated flight?
I’m heading to Portland, Oregon for Memorial Day weekend, and I’m looking for a few reasonably-priced restaurant suggestions. There will be 4 diners, including 2 vegetarians. We’re all very adventurous eaters! Any ideas? Thanks!
Jessica, take it away!
(Note: Jessica Voelker, our chat producer and the magazine’s online food and wine editor, spent the past four years in Seattle before returning to DC. She knows Portland cold. And warm. And every temperature in between.)
The very good news for you, Washington, DC, is that almost anywhere you go will have ample vegetarian options—a Portland menu that does not carefully consider meat eschewers is a rarity.
Andy Ricker excels at the reasonably priced and delicious—Pok Pok is a must-have Portland experience.
The happy hour and late-night menu at Clyde Common is a steal—don’t miss the cocktails, some of the best you’ll have anywhere. Elegant Bluehour also has a great HH, as does the new-ish Gruner. None of these restaurants is terribly expensive anyway, but the discounted menus are an excellent value.
I haven’t had the chance to try Little Bird—Gabriel Rucker’s bistro—but I hear great things.
For a more complete list—including a guide to the best vegetarian restaurants—check out Portland Monthly’s 2011 Best Restaurants package.
I’ve been tasked very last minute with securing a Friday night reservation for 8 (I know, I know) for a Bachelorette party here in town. We want to be in DC, ideally on the Hill. Any ideas for where might be feasible? I already struck out at Cava. We don’t need fancy – just fun. HELP!
How about Sonoma?
Or Belga Cafe?
I would expect for $5 that olive oil and salt tastings better be really a wow. I really don’t mind the charge for bread, if it is really good bread, that took some work.
Sometimes I want bread, often times I don’t need it. But it better be REALLY good salt and olive oil, or is served with different bread, as well? Good olive oil is pricey, but I imagine the portions aren’t huge either. I don’t know that it would be something I would order…
I think that’s reasonable.
“It’d better be really a wow.” Yeah. Can’t argue with that.
I’m curious to know, though — would it send up any doubt in your mind that the regular olive oil, at no charge, and the regular salt, at no charge, are not as good, and that if you want a great meal then you really ought to throw in an extra five bucks?
Bistro du Coin + Mintwood Place= Mintwood du Coin:
At Mintwood du Coin, you could eat some of the best French food in the city–Chicken liver tartine! Poulet roti! Cassoulet!–in a neighborhood bistro that’s as boisterous and joyful as any you’ll find within a stone’s throw of the Seine.
In the kitchen, Cedric Maupillier and his wood-fired oven. Out front, Michel Verdon slapping patrons on the back and refilling glasses of some of the best value wines in the city. Of course, if you prefer some more stylish drink–a bracing bourbon cocktail with peach bitters, for instance–those are available too.
The best of both worlds.
But wouldn’t a better name be — Mint Coin?
We have a leader …
Boqueria x Fiola = Boquiola!
The light hearded mood and vibrant scene as you walk into Boqueria, the latin music floating through the room, pitchers of sangria whisked out of the bar and wooden platters of food coming tableside as they’re prepared. An ease and energy about a space that’s outfitted with high stools and wood.
But once you bite into the food, the depth, the careful manipulation and sophistication of only the best ingredients sourced by Fiola. That calculated attention to the sensory experience that only chef Fabio can pull off with such ease, as though his mother made the food in her home kitchen. And at a price point like Boqueria that we can all afford to enjoy more often!
Great name, great write-up.
Interesting that the first two out of the gate are places that combine great, careful cooking with rollicking atmospheres.
BTW, I’m finding Boqueria to be a pretty nice addition to the scene …
Re: Bachelorette party…got a reservation at Sonoma! Thank you for jogging my memory!! Works perfectly…after some civilized wine-sipping we can get a little rowdy at the Penn Ave establishments!
Penn. Ave. establishments, you have been forewarned!
Have a great time …
Hey Todd, a short report from the field.
Ten of us took over a table at Hong Kong Pearl Seafood last week and stuffed ourselves silly. Unfortunately we found the crispy pork from the front case to be not very crispy and on the dry side (but it was a Tuesday night and not very busy, so maybe it had been sitting around).
Three dishes were real standouts. A whole butterflied chicken (with head still attached), super tender meat, super crispy skin (note: takes 20 minutes to cook, so order early!). A lamb and tofu skin casserole with shiitake mushrooms and greens…loved it. And a cross section cut of (we think) sea bass, battered and fried…the fish was mild, but a nice counter point to the richness of the chicken dish and the casserole. A plate of snow pea shoots with garlic was also solidly good.
The rest of the food we ordered was decent to good, but the dishes above were the clear winners!
That whole butterflied chicken sounds amazing. Thanks for that great tip.
The greens — of every variety — and casseroles have been very good at HKPS, in my experience.
That pork hanging from the front case was exceptional when I had it; as good as you can imagine. I’s too bad it was a strikeout for your group.
You’ll have to return now for the dim sum — right now, I think, the finest spread in the area.
For the bachelorette party on Capitol Hill, you may want to consider Cafe Berlin.
The food’s nothing special (except for the desserts), but they have great beer and I love the outdoor patio. I’d only recommend it if you can sit outside, however.
When have you ever seen women at a bachelorette party drink beer?
The drinks must be garishly colorful and sweet.
Beer “codes” frat boy. It “codes” rowdies. It “codes” a certain species of food nerd.
I would think that the butter and olive oil normally served, is probably average butter and olive oil that you would get at pretty much any restaurant, probably what the kitchen uses.
I guess what it would make me question more is the overall value, like I said paying for bread- I can see that- employing a baker to make great quality bread is not cheap. But they are not house making that olive oil.
These days you tend to get nickel and dimed everywhere–I think that is the new way restaurants, hotels, most hospitality industry places are making the profits to provide the service level that they do. But $5 just seems awfully steep for something to put on bread. It is obvious that you are getting nickel and dimed for that item. Although I am in no way saying there aren’t other items of food here certainly worth paying their prices for.
I just wouldn’t have it on the menu. Serve a decent butter or olive oil and upcharge something else a few bucks. It’s just asking for an assumption of some sort by anyone who sees it, so why have it there?
It’s true — there’s an awful lot of nickel-and-diming going on these days.
Entree prices are holding steady, while everything else is going up, up, up …
I had a dessert a couple of weeks ago at a fine restaurant that deservedly gets a lot of attention — it was two quenelles (one of sorbet, one of sherbet) with a cookie the size and thinness of a sugar packet. It cost $10.
Glasses of wine typically run $12-$15 for something interesting.
Appetizers are nearly the cost of entrees at some restaurants. The aforementioned fine restaurant charged $18 for an appetizer special. Was it great? It was. It was also $18, i.e., the cost of an entree. Only smaller.
You pay a premium for top shelf liquors, so I suppose one shouldn’t expect a difference when it comes to olive oil. If the $5 tasting olive oil were not better than what they offer gratis, I’d say it would be a little bit outrageous to levy the additional charge.
I want to say that I’ve had those olive oils, and those finishing salts, and they’re very, very good.
Different from what you’d ordinarily get, yes.
Better? That’s hard to answer. The olive oils give you a variety of tastes, so that — if you were interested — you could dip your bread into something that was pepper-ier, or lighter and fruitier, or richer and smoother. I wouldn’t say it’s better than the olive oil that comes gratis — I would say it’s an interesting thing to play with if you’ve never sampled different olive oils.
The salts? Again, an interesting thing to play with. And if you’ve never sampled a variety of salts and experienced how a simple thing such as salt can change the taste of an entire dish, then it’s certainly something to spring for — if only once. Better? No. Different.
Graffiato Takes 2:
2 Amy’s has been my favorite pizza for years and have yet to find any pizza that comes close. At Graffiato, I loved all the offerings except the pizza. It would be absolute perfection if they could just take the pizza from 2 Amys..then I can finally have the best of both worlds.
2 Amys “little things” menu of today x 2 Amys pizzas from 7 years ago = bliss.
Galileo + Ashok Bajaj= Galijaj:
I’d like to experience Galileo if it had been managed by Ashok Bajaj. Can you imagine? All those details taken care of and Donna in the kitchen, far, far from the payroll files.
If only we had a time machine …
Our new front-runner. Who can beat it?
My restaurant dream mash-up would be Dino and Sweetgreen.
You create a custom meal from the wonderful selections of meats, greens, pastas and sauces from Dino, whipped up for eat in or carry out. Greens, roast duck and roasted potatoes or Boar Ragu over polenta with fresh sauteed veggies, duck sausage, spinach and mushrooms over pasta.
The careful sourcing and seasonality both places have with the soul soothing comfort that Dino’s food provides. Order at the counter and voila in minutes an amazing meal. Open for lunch and dinner. With great affordable wine like at Dino.
It sounds like — Dinotle. ; )
The Inn at Little Washington x R+R Taqueria = The Inn at R&R
Couldn’t resist …
Exquisite sourcing, delicate saucing, hyper-precise preparations — which you eat from plastic plates while sitting on a stool in a gas station convenience shop.
One can dream …
Help! I’m surprising my boyfriend with a trip to the Museum of Shenandoah Valley this weekend (inspired by your lovely cover) and I want to go somewhere for lunch or dinner.
Any suggestions for Winchester, VA?
Two recs for you —
Violino, for Italian, and the Naked Oyster, for fish and seafood.
The former’s got big-city prices; the latter’s cheaper and more casual.
It’s been a while since I’ve been to these; drop back on and treat us all to a report when you return, please.
La Forchetta–mediocre. Never experienced Donna’s cooking at Galileo…was the heyday there so impressive?
The heyday of Galileo was impressive, yes. It was not only the city’s finest Italian restaurant, but also one of the best restaurants in all of DC and, in the eyes of many critics, one of the best restaurants in the country.
And remember: Donna at one point in the 90’s owned, if I’m not mistaken, 13 restaurants.
I first ate at Galileo, as a kid, in 1984. It was dazzling.
By the late ’90s and into the early aughts, you could still get a good meal. Or not. It was inconsistent and not very rewarding. The best thing coming out of the kitchen before it closed was a sandwich — a magical sandwich, to be fair: the most luscious roast pork with broccoli rabe and provolone on a fresh-baked ciabatta.
And the service … well, the service at Galileo and then, later, at Bebo was abominable. Maybe the worst service I have ever experienced at a restaurant at that level. Morale means a lot in a restaurant, and not paying people erodes their confidence in ownership, their regard for their jobs and their empathy for customers.
Just got back from lunch at Maple Ave Restaurant in Vienna with some co-workers.
The food is well cooked and I liked his take Moroccan chicken. The chicken wings could have used a little bit more bite to them. It is a nice little place and I see myself going back there again for either lunch or dinner in the near future.
You know, most people just tweet what they just ate … ; )
Thanks for the fresh-from-the-front report. I like Maple Avenue and think it’s one of those gestalt places where the sum really is more important than the individual parts. And I say that as someone who likes those individual parts.
The sea salt and olive oil tasting might have been the best offerings from Elisir. I did the tasting menu when they first opened and was not very impressed. Only the first dish we had I believe it was a salmon tartare/crudo style dish that was excellent. Everything else was average.
You know, I had three meals at Elisir and enjoyed them. Though there are things about the experience that I can take issue with, there’s some very good and interesting cooking going on in that kitchen.
I think it’s deserving of a second look …
A&J x Jaleo = A&Jaleo:
A&Jaleo – The tapas mentality of Jaleo and the dim sum mentality of A&J.
But seriously, if tapas can work downtown, mezze can work downtown, antojitos can work downtown, and small plates can dominate downtown…why can’t some serious dim sum/chinese small plate/whatever you want to call it, work downtown?
Yeah, why not?
I’d love to see it. There’s no such thing as too much dim sum.
Love that name, by the way.
Komi + New Big Wong = New Big Komi:
No more dialing one month ahead. Get the best meal int won anytime you want wihtout a reservation. Open late too.
Yeah. Be nice, wouldn’t it?
Jessica just wrote to tell me you should’ve gone with Komi Wong Konomi.
(Rarely, I have to say, is she wrong about anything … )
And what about a duel of tasting menus between Komi and Elisir?
Yeah, and this would play on the TV screens on continuous loop …
Thanks so much to everyone who played … I got a kick out of all the write-ups, and seeing how witty and clever you all are. Not that I didn’t know already …
And to everyone who didn’t, too … Keep the questions coming, and the comments, and the rants — it’s not all about snagging a free book, you know?
Today’s winner … the coiner of Galijaj. A stinging criticism, a fitting tribute, a smart comment on the DC dining scene over the past decade, and a good laugh all rolled into one. Impressive.
Drop me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org with your address and we’ll get a copy of Not-So-Humble Pies by Kelly Jaggers out to you today.
Thank you all …
Be well and eat well, and let’s do it again next Tuesday at 11 …