Whitey's occupied the space for more than 27 years, but now this hallowed piece of restaurant ground on Washington Boulevard in Arlington has a new tenant. Tallula is a combination restaurant, bar, and lounge with an adjoining wine store. It's the brainchild of Michael and Stephanie Babin, owners of the Evening Star Cafe and Vermilion, and Peter Pflug, who owns the stylish Clarendon Grill and Clarendon Ballroom.

Chef Nathan Anda, formerly at Todd Gray's Equinox and Market Salamander, has designed a dining-room menu of "classically inspired American comfort food"--dishes such as chili-braised short ribs of beef, pork chops with a chanterelle bread pudding, and apple strudel with ice cream. Patrons wanting something lighter in the bar may order from his "Amuse Yourself" menu, which has two-bite items like baby burgers, a foie gras finger sandwich, or a beer-battered corn dog, all priced between $2 and $3.

Tallula's wine program is ambitious, with more than 350 wines by the bottle and 70 by the glass. The wines may be bought to take home from the adjoining wine store, Planet Wine, inspired by the Daily Planet Wine Store next to Evening Star Cafe.

Tallula: 2761 Washington Blvd.; 703-778-5051; tallularestaurant.com.

Open daily for dinner and Friday through Sunday for brunch.