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Very Good Humor
Comments () | Published July 15, 2008

Amanda Cook's New Nutty Buddy

You might be able to polish off a Nutty Buddy in a minute, but you’ll want to savor every bite of Amanda Cook’s rendition.

Amanda Cook may be able to produce a fancified Nutty Buddy on a moment’s notice, but the CityZen pastry chef confesses to a less-than-satisfying past with frozen kiddie treats. “When the ice-cream truck came around, I never had any money,” Cook says with a laugh. So she approaches the Nutty Buddy with the eye of an outsider longing to be an insider, taking apart every element of the treat and refining it. Vanilla ice cream won’t do—Cook insists on a vanilla-soufflé glace for extra lightness. She melts chocolate with coconut oil to give the crowning drizzle added glossiness. The peanuts are reworked—Cook candies them, intensifying the crunch. Why invest so much time on an ice-cream treat? Says Cook: “When you’re a little kid, these treats taste so good, but when you get older, your tastes get more sophisticated.” Still, if time is tight, Cook suggests using softened vanilla ice cream in place of the glace, and storebought honey-roasted peanuts instead of her candied nuts. 

 

 

Serves 8

Sugar-cone tuile:
3⁄4 cup sugar
1 egg
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1⁄4 cup milk at room temperature
1⁄2 cup all-purpose flour, sifted

Candied peanuts:
1⁄2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon water
2 1⁄2 cups peanuts, roasted briefly and kept warm
1 tablespoon butter
Salt to taste

Vanilla-soufflé glace:
2 cups heavy cream
1⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
5 egg yolks
1 tablespoon Karo syrup
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon water
1⁄2 envelope powdered gelatin
1 vanilla bean
Pinch of salt

“Magic shell”:
14 1⁄2 ounces 70-percent chocolate (Cook recommends Valrhona Guanaja)
2 1⁄2 tablespoons coconut oil (available at Whole Foods)

Silicone mini-cake mold pan (rectangles should be 3 1⁄8 inches long, 1 1⁄8 inches wide and deep), available at La Cuisine in Alexandria and JBPrince.com.

Make the sugar-cone tuiles: Create a stencil for the tuiles by taking a clear plastic lid of a food container and cutting off the lip so it lies flat. Flip over the mold pan so that the rectangles are raised. Set the lid over the raised rectangle of the mold pan and trace the shape with a marker. Using a sharp knife, cut out the stencil.
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. In a large bowl, combine the sugar, egg, melted butter, and vanilla. Add milk and mix well. Add flour and stir until smooth. Place a silicone baking mat on a cookie sheet and, with a small offset spatula, spread the batter into the stencil. (It’s fine if it’s on the thick side.) You’ll need 3 to 4 pieces per bar. Bake until completely golden brown, about 5 minutes.

Candy the peanuts
: Combine the sugar and water in a 2-quart saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until it reaches 240 degrees on a candy thermometer. Add the peanuts and stir until the mixture crystallizes. Continue cooking until the mixture caramelizes, stirring very frequently. Take off the heat, add butter, and mix well. On a silicone baking mat or parchment paper, pour and spread out the candied peanuts. If the peanuts are unsalted, add a sprinkling of salt. Cool and chop finely. Sift in a strainer to remove candy dust.

Make the vanilla-soufflé glace: In a bowl, whip the heavy cream to soft-peak stage and set aside in the refrigerator. In a stand mixer set on medium-high speed with the whisk attachment, whip 2 tablespoons of the sugar with the egg yolks. While that’s mixing, place the Karo syrup, tablespoon of water, and 1⁄4 cup sugar in a saucepan and cook until it reaches 244 degrees. While the mixer is still running, carefully pour the Karo syrup mixture slowly down the side of the bowl, taking care to avoid pouring it directly onto the whisk.
   In a small saucepan, whisk the 1⁄2 envelope of gelatin in 1⁄4  cup of cold water. Over low heat, melt the gelatin mixture until it is clear. Slowly add the gelatin to the egg mixture. Whip until the mixture is thick and cool. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add them to the mixture with a pinch of salt. Stop the mixer and fold in the whipped cream until smooth. 

Make the “magic shell”: In a bowl set over simmering water, melt the chocolate and coconut oil. Keep warm, making sure it doesn’t get hot.

Assemble the bars: Place the soufflé glace in a pastry bag fitted with a small, flat or tip (or, cut a hole in the tip of a pastry bag). Cover the bottom of the molds with the soufflé glace. Layer some candied peanuts on top, then a tuile, and repeat the process until the mold is full. (Note: If some of the tuiles are cracked or broken, use them in the middle of the bar). Make sure to end with a tuile on top so that the bar will have something to sit on when removed. Freeze until firm.
   Place a cooling rack over a sheet pan lined with plastic or a silicone mat. Remove the bars from the freezer and invert onto the rack. Working quickly, ladle the warm magic shell over the bars, making sure to cover the bars completely. Tapping the whole pan on the counter will help settle some of the chocolate. If the chocolate looks too thick on the bars, warm it slightly. Garnish with additional candied nuts.
 

 

Todd Thrasher's High-Octane Bomb Pop

Todd Thrasher's Bomb Pop forgoes brightly hued dyes in favor of layers of minty raspberry, rosemary-infused lemonade, and lavender-scented blueberry.

Drink maker Todd Thrasher is quick to point out that alcohol-spiked frozen treats aren’t sold at Restaurant Eve in Old Town Alexandria, but he was more than game to try bringing a grown-up twist to the Bomb Pop. “I didn’t like creamy things or chocolate much,” says the sommelier, recalling summers past, “so I would always go for the fruity things or whatever looked the coolest—and the colorful Popsicles always look cool when you’re a kid.” The molds can be found at Sur la Table, and the recipe can be made G-rated by forgoing the rum, tequila, and vodka; it can be made even simpler by skipping the herbal infusions or using vodka for all three layers.

Serves 6

Raspberry layer:
1⁄4 cup sugar
1⁄2 cup water
1⁄2 cup mint
1 cup raspberries
1 1⁄4 ounces vodka

Lemonade layer:
1⁄2 cup sugar
1⁄2 cup water
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves removed from the stem
1⁄2 cup lemon juice
1 1⁄2 to 2 cups cold water
1 1⁄4 ounces nonsmoky silver tequila such as Patron or Don Julio

Blueberry layer:
1 cup blueberries
1⁄4 cup sugar
1⁄2 teaspoon dried lavender or 2 tablespoons fresh
1 1⁄4 ounces rum

Make the raspberry syrup: In a medium saucepan, bring the water and sugar to a boil until the sugar is dissolved, then turn off the heat. Add the mint and steep for 4 minutes. Strain. Purée raspberries, syrup, and vodka in a blender. Pass through a sieve.

Make the lemonade: In a medium saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil until the sugar is dissolved, then turn off the heat. Add the rosemary and steep for 4 minutes. Pass through a fine sieve. Add the lemon juice and sugar water to a pitcher. Add the cold water to taste, then refrigerate for 30 to 40 minutes. If it’s too sweet, add more lemon juice. Add tequila to 1 1/2 cups of lemonade.

Make the blueberry syrup
: In a medium saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil until the sugar is dissolved, then turn off the heat. Add the lavender and steep for 4 minutes, then pass it through a sieve. When you're ready to fill the popsicles (don't do it ahead of time), purée the blueberries and syrup in a blender and pass through a sieve. Return the mixture to the blender, add the rum, and purée again. Pass through a fine sieve.

Assemble the popsicles
: Pour the blueberry mixture about 1⁄3 of the way into the mold. Add the stick and make sure it’s straight. Put the cover on the mold and freeze for 3 hours. Repeat with the lemonade, then with the raspberry.
 

Joy Ludwig's Stout Fudgsicle With Banana-Nut Crunch

In Joy Ludwig’s hands, the Fudgsicle is transformed thanks to stout-beer ice cream, chocolate sorbet, and a coating of toasted hazelnuts and chopped bananas.

Beer in a Popsicle? It’s not so strange, considering that the dark earthiness of stout is almost a dead ringer for chocolate. With this mash-up of chocolate sorbet and stout ice cream, Joy Ludwig, who oversees desserts at the Oval Room in downtown DC, has concocted a version of the Fudgsicle that’s far richer than the original. Toasted hazelnuts and dried bananas add just the right crunch. Ludwig found plastic molds at Sur la Table, but they’re available at most kitchen stores. She also likes Cuisinart’s Flavor Duo Frozen Yogurt, Ice Cream & Sorbet Maker ($79.95), which lets her process two batches of ice cream or sorbet at the same time.

Serves 8

Chocolate sorbet:
3 1⁄4 cups water
1 cup sugar
1 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, such as Lindt or Valrhona
5 1⁄2 ounces dark chocolate (64 or 70 percent cocoa), chopped

Stout ice cream:
2 cups heavy cream
1 1⁄4 cups whole milk
1 1⁄4 cups sugar
7 ounces egg yolks (about 10 yolks)
9 ounces stout beer, such as Sierra Nevada (open the bottle ahead of time so it’s a little flat)

Banana-nut crunch:
1 1⁄2 cups raw, blanched hazelnuts, lightly toasted
1 cup dried banana chips, chopped small
3⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
3⁄4 cup sugar
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1 stick cold butter, cubed small

Plastic popsicle molds (available at Sur la Table or Williams-Sonoma)
Popsicle sticks
Plastic pastry bags

Make the chocolate sorbet: Set up a large bowl of ice and set aside. In a 3-quart pot over medium-high heat, bring the water, sugar, and salt to a boil. Whisk in the cocoa powder and dark chocolate. Continue whisking for 3 to 4 minutes until the chocolate is melted and all ingredients are thoroughly combined. The mixture will thicken slightly. Strain the liquid into a bowl and cool it by setting the bowl into the other bowl of ice. Process in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacture’s instructions.

Make the stout ice cream
: In a large pot over medium-high heat, bring the heavy cream and milk to a simmer. Meanwhile, place the yolks in a stainless-steel bowl and whisk in the sugar. While whisking constantly, slowly ladle half the milk mixture into the bowl. When combined, pour the yolk mixture back into the pot of milk, reduce the heat to medium, and heat gently. Cook, stirring, about 1 to 2 minutes until the custard coats the back of a wooden spoon or rubber spatula and is 170 degrees on an instant-read thermometer; do not let it boil. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a metal bowl. Cover with parchment paper and chill at least 4 hours in the refrigerator; or you can strain the liquid into a bowl and cool it by setting the bowl into the other bowl of ice. Whisk in the beer until combines. Process in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Make the banana-nut crunch: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a food processor fitted with the blade attachment, pulse the hazelnuts, banana chips, flour, sugar, salt, and butter until combined (it should look like crumbly dough). Cover a sheet tray with parchment paper and spread the mixture out evenly on top. Bake until golden brown, about 12 to 15 minutes. In the middle of the baking, use a dough cutter to break the dough into pieces to ensure even browning. Cool and break into crumbly pieces. If necessary, grind in a food processor to make the pieces smaller.

Assemble the popsicles
: Place the ice cream and sorbet in separate pastry bags. Pipe a layer of ice cream into the popsicle mold, then a layer of sorbet. Keep alternating until the molds are full (two layers of each flavor should be enough). Place the molds back in the freezer. When the popsicles are completely frozen, unmold each one—run the molds under warm water if the ice cream is sticking—and roll it in the banana-nut crunch. Serve immediately.

 

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 07/15/2008 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Articles