June 2004 Taqueria el Poblano

Stands out for freshness and clarity of ingredients often lacking at Mexican and Salvadoran restaurants.

By: David Dorsen

This pair of restaurants stands out for freshness and clarity of ingredients often lacking at Mexican and Salvadoran restaurants. In either place, you get excellent Tex-Mex and Salvadoran food in large portions and attentive service at good prices. South-of-the-border beer and margaritas quench the thirst.

The standard specials are done well: quesadillas with a choice of fillings; taquitos, rolled tortillas stuffed with pork or chicken; shrimp tacos served hard or soft; guacamole of ripe avocado studded with tomato; and sweet grilled onion. Standouts among the main courses are lime-marinated steak sliced into strips and served à la fajitas with onions and peppers; similarly prepared strips of pork loin; and a very fine large chiles rellenos. The chicken mole lacked the intensity that is the hallmark of the dish. The best dessert is chocolate fritters with ice cream. Sunday-brunch fanciers will find solace here: The huevos rancheros are excellent.