BLUE RIBBON AWARD WINNER

This restaurant has a dazzling setting--its 30-foot wall of windows overlooks Fairview Lake. Cooking is in the hands of Jonathan Krinn, a graduate of L'Academie de Cuisine in Bethesda and an alumnus of the well-regarded Gramercy Tavern in New York City.

The modern French-American menu changes seasonally. A constant is the very good breadbasket prepared under the supervision of the chef's father. A recent meal included halved quail with the cavity filled with a porcini stuffing, braised cipollini onions, and an orange bay-leaf jus; caramelized pheasant breast cooked medium rare with a mousse made of morsels from the leg and truffle chips; and a dessert of pear-and-chestnut croustade with sesame-and-Szechuan-pepper ice cream and tempura bananas served with a shot glass of cinnamon red-wine soup with berries. Other top appetizers are the Hudson Valley Foie Gras and a pair of tartares, one of Kobe beef, another of yellowfin tuna.

Main courses have included a honey-and-soy glazed Chilean sea bass and a rack and loin of New Zealand venison. A ten-course tasting menu is available for $105 to $115, with wine pairings an extra $80. Vegetarian and white-truffle tasting menus are also available. Dinners end with an old-fashioned free dessert of cotton candy and other tidbits.