The Bubba of Bubba's comes to Falls Church from Iran via Memphis (Tennessee, not Egypt), where he learned his stuff. As is evident from the decor, dominated by statuettes and pictures of pigs, his restaurant is dedicated to pork. The ribs come both dry-style, with the spices rubbed into the meat, and wet, with a Memphis-style sauce. Diners who like a tart bite in the finish should order the ribs dry and add one of the sauces on the table. Tomato-based, mustard-based, vinegar, and hot sauces are there for the taking. Pulled pork and minced pork are other winners.

Bubba does other meats. On a recent visit the barbecue chicken was excellently seasoned and unusually moist. Beef brisket has just enough fat to bring the flavor out. Other choices are smoked London broil and pulled chicken. The menu includes some deli favorites and even an Atkins special. The sides are typical--the spiced fried potatoes, cole slaw, and baked beans outshone the overcooked string beans and dull onion rings. Beer lovers will be pleased--a 16-ounce draught of Budweiser is $1.75, a bottle of Samuel Adams just $2.75.