June 2004: Chinatown Express
The floor show at this modest Chinatown restaurant, best viewed from the sidewalk in front, is a chef who makes fresh noodles in the front window.
By
Thomas Head
Published Tuesday, June 01, 2004
The floor show at this modest Chinatown restaurant, best viewed from the sidewalk in front, is a chef who makes fresh noodles in the front window. He mixes and stretches the dough, folds it back on itself, restretches it, repeats the procedure several times, gives it a snap, and it collapses into perfectly formed noodles. The appreciative audience on the sidewalk often applauds.
The dumplings, lai mein, are served--either stir-fried or boiled--as meal-in-a-bowl soups with a slice of beef or chicken for the low price of $4.95. The other main attraction at Chinatown Express is the Shanghai soup dumpling, listed on the menu as "Steamed Bun (Pork) (8 pieces)." These dumplings filled with broth are a bit of a challenge to eat but worth the effort.
Chinatown Express, 746 Sixth St., NW; 202-638-0425. No wheelchair access.
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