A small place with bare-bones decor, Cafe Monti is an eatery of impressive range and variety. Diners order at a counter and take their seats until a server delivers the food to the table. After eating, customers bus their own tables. The kitchen offers specialties of Austria and Italy--nothing fancy, just honest food and reasonable prices.

Good choices from the Italian list are the capellini with basil and tomato sauce, linguine with clams in a sauce with clam juice and butter, spaghetti and meatballs, and grilled Italian sausage with green peppers, onions, and a side of spaghetti. Asparagus is a very good bet in season. Austrian specialties include Wiener schnitzel with roast potatoes and goulash with bread dumplings. Subs are good, too. House-made desserts are a specialty--try the apple strudel, Italian-style cheesecake, the pear tart, or the blueberry tart. There is a very good selection of beers, including several from Austria, and drinkable wine for $12.95 a carafe.