November 2005: Irene's Pupusas
The dough is more delicate, the filling-to-pupusa ratio better, and the exterior crisper than you'll find anywhere else.
By
Cynthia Hacinli
Published Tuesday, November 01, 2005
Pupusas rule at Irene's. The dough is more delicate, the filling-to-pupusa ratio better, and the exterior crisper than you'll find anywhere else. Fillers like pork, cheese, beans, and loroco buds, which taste like a cross between squash and broccoli, are a cut above, too. Pupusas made with floured rice dough are also available--they're lighter and crisper still--but don't have the satisfying heft of the original. There's also a world beyond pupusas: open-faced soft cornmeal tacos Honduran-style with mini-chunks of beef and pico de gallo; homey stewed chicken with a heap of rice and beans; and a motley beef soup with corn on the cob, peppers, cassava, and zucchini thrown into the brew. On weekends, the Honduran-style seafood soup makes a robust meal. Baliadas, the Honduran national dish, are large flour tortillas served open face and slathered with silky refried beans, ripe avocado slices, hard-cooked egg, and savory bits of spice-rubbed beef buried under it all. Flavors and textures make for a smashing whole, so no surprise that it's what everyone seems to be eating at dinnertime--from the workmen who stop by for a beer and heaping plates at the bar to the Honduran families after a bite of home.
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