March 2004 Best Bites

A couple of decades ago, the Madison Hotel's Montpelier Room was a power-dining spot, a point of intersection for Washington's social and diplomatic communities. The Madison has just completed a restoration, and its new restaurant, Palette, is as light-filled and airy as the old Montpelier Room was dark and clubby. Palette's muted colors showcase its rotating art exhibits--the first, on display till March 6, is devoted to Salvadoran painters of the late 20th century.

Palette's chef is Charlie Hansji, a New Zealander of Indian ancestry who has cooked in Australia, France, Canada, and at DC's Four Seasons Hotel. He describes his version of contemporary American cooking as "playfully provocative"--a lunchtime club sandwich of foie gras, ahi tuna, and portobello mushrooms; an appetizer of citrus-roasted veal sweetbreads flavored with vanilla; a main course of saddle of rabbit, truffles, salsify, and pistachio cream.

The bar at Palette is furnished with "conversational cabins" containing sofas and tables. The lunch and dinner menus are available in the bar, as is a lounge menu of lighter fare. Cocktails include Palette's signature Warhol--Circo vodka, caper berry juice, and caraway seed liqueur. Some 20 wines are available by the glass.

Palette (15th and M sts., NW) is open for lunch Monday through Saturday and dinner daily. For reservations, call 202-587-2700.

March 2004 Best Bites

A couple of decades ago, the Madison Hotel's Montpelier Room was a power-dining spot, a point of intersection for Washington's social and diplomatic communities. The Madison has just completed a restoration, and its new restaurant, Palette, is as light-filled and airy as the old Montpelier Room was dark and clubby. Palette's muted colors showcase its rotating art exhibits--the first, on display till March 6, is devoted to Salvadoran painters of the late 20th century.

Palette's chef is Charlie Hansji, a New Zealander of Indian ancestry who has cooked in Australia, France, Canada, and at DC's Four Seasons Hotel. He describes his version of contemporary American cooking as "playfully provocative"--a lunchtime club sandwich of foie gras, ahi tuna, and portobello mushrooms; an appetizer of citrus-roasted veal sweetbreads flavored with vanilla; a main course of saddle of rabbit, truffles, salsify, and pistachio cream.

The bar at Palette is furnished with "conversational cabins" containing sofas and tables. The lunch and dinner menus are available in the bar, as is a lounge menu of lighter fare. Cocktails include Palette's signature Warhol--Circo vodka, caper berry juice, and caraway seed liqueur. Some 20 wines are available by the glass.

Palette (15th and M sts., NW) is open for lunch Monday through Saturday and dinner daily. For reservations, call 202-587-2700.