CRITIC'S CHOICE

With its red walls and double-sided fish tanks, Seven Seas is one of the most eye-catching Chinese restaurants around. The tanks and the name tell the story: Seafood is king. Some items, like sweet Dungeness crab with vinegar and salt, and lobster with ginger and scallions, may mean penny-pinching on sides to stay within the Cheap Eats budget, but they're worth it. Fish right out of the tank--depending on the season it might be tilapia, rockfish, black bass, or Atlantic cod--are a bit easier on the wallet. Order them simply steamed with braised garlic or in a winning ginger-and-scallion combo. You don't need much to enhance these plates, maybe snow-pea leaves or Chinese broccoli and a noodle dish.

The kitchen also does a nice job with Manila clams with shredded ginger, and scallops on the shell with black-bean sauce. For the seafood-shy, black-pepper beef short ribs, spicy tofu with chili oil, shredded pork with hot sauce, and roast duck Canton-style are all deftly done. A new health-conscious menu offers such dishes as chicken with Chinese herb soup, free-range poultry, and line-caught fish.

Seven Seas Restaurant, 1776 E. Jefferson St., Rockville; 301-770-5020.