Is fine dining dead?

The maître d' seems to have gone the way of the vinyl record, dress codes are nearing extinction, and grand dining rooms have folded up or reinvented themselves. The legendary Jockey Club is the latest to get a makeover--it's now called 2100 Prime. Dinner at a fine restaurant used to be like flying first class; now it's sometimes more like taking a bus.

But burying fine dining may be premature--as we were reminded in putting together our annual roundup of the area's best restaurants. Such institutions as the Inn at Little Washington, Citronelle, CityZen, Restaurant Eve, Marcel's, and Palena are as sumptuous and delicious as ever.

At the same time, some of the most exciting meals we enjoyed occurred not in the world of the

white tablecloth but in the spirited dining rooms of ambitious midrange restaurants--informal, moderately priced places that abide by the kitchen standards of fine dining.

Graffiato, a newcomer, earned not just a spot on our list but a prime ranking, while some restaurants that caught our eye, such as the Atlas Room, began to realize their potential.

Vermilion and Estadio and Liberty Tavern, already good, got better. So did Palena Cafe, where the energy is infectious and the food marvelous.

Ardeo & Bardeo went from being a pleasant night out to one of the area's most affordably interesting meals. Proof, the stylish wine bar, became one of the most consistent places to eat. Eola gambled by going to an all-tasting-menu format and remade itself into a better, more complete experience.

Ripple took on a new chef, Logan Cox, whose vision and maturity have made it a place to watch. Fiola heralded the return of Fabio Trabocchi, whose downscaled ambitions make it possible to indulge more often in his fabulous pastas. Pearl Dive Oyster Palace, a fun fish house, became the fifth restaurant in Jeff and Barbara Black's collection--and their most brilliantly realized.

You'll still find plenty of fine dining on this year's list, but you'll also find lots more not-so-expensive places with energy and passion and really good food.

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