Bourbon Steak's compressed watermelon with feta and lardo was one of our favorite dishes of the night. Photograph by Scott Suchman.
At our Best of Washington party last night, restaurants pulled out all the stops, serving everything from octopus carpaccio (2941) to lobster salad (the Palm) to an Indian spin on Scotch eggs (Rasika). While we were very impressed with the entire spread, some dishes really shined. Here’s a roundup of our favorites from the night.
>>For a slideshow of more dishes from the night, click here.
Best version of a low-brow dish by a high-brow restaurant:Citronelle’s fried chicken rounds with a Dijon dressing were a far cry from Mickey D’s nuggets with honey-mustard sauce.
Best use of summer corn: Chilled Silver Queen-corn soup with crab, tarragon oil, and crispy tarragon leaves from Charlie Palmer Steak.
Best way to beat the heat:Masa 14’s mixture of St. Germain elderflower liqueur, lemon/basil simple syrup, ginger liqueur, and Dos Equis beer.
Best taste of the south: Just-out-of-the-fryer hush puppies with a dollop of honey butter from Sou’Wester.
Refreshing twist on the ubiquitous gazpacho: Chef Tony Chittum of Vermilion used kalamata-olive tapenade, feta, and opal basil to jazz up his version of the popular cold-tomato soup.
Watermelon how many ways? We liked PS 7’s spoonful of raw halibut mixed with diced canteloupe and topped with strawberry foam. A little better still was Bourbon Steak’s compressed-watermelon cubes with feta and a thin shaving of lardo. Our favorite, though, was J&G Steakhouse’s watermelon with goat cheese—and it didn’t hurt that the restaurant also served cool tuna tartare with avocado and a knockout ginger dressing.
Best take on a familiar dish: We’ve always love the faux gras—chicken-liver mousse made to look like foie gras—at Central, Michel Richard’s casual bistro. His version for the party, though, capitalized on summer produce with a pickled-peach relish and crumbled pistachios.
Best surf-and-turf on a stick:BLT Steak’s skewer of grilled octopus with pork belly.
Best reason to eat a warm dish on a sticky night: A slightly spicy she-crab soup from the Majestic that was creamy but not overly rich.
Best summer dessert: Okay, so we didn’t sample every single sweet dish, but we’ll still go ahead and say that the peaches-and-cream pie from Baked & Wired was the best dessert we’ve tasted in a long, long time.
bourbon steak’s watermelon dish was the best of the eve --- but the oval room’s dish (w/tamesha from top chef at the helm) was also wonderful.
Posted by: tw, Jul 28, 2010 08:09:11 AM
I had a few favorites:
I really liked the octopus from 2941 because it was impossibly thin so it did not take on any of the typical chewiness. I also liked how sweet that Faux Gras was. It would be nice to see that version on the platter in the restaurant. I also really liked the flavors in the Marcel’s smoked salmon napoleon. My surprise of the night was Oval Room’s red snapper ceviche. It was one of the freshest pieces of fish I have had in a long time. I think the soups and gazpachos (even though there were some very good ones) get old because the party is mostly standing so one good bite is better than nursing soup for a while.
Posted by: ds, Jul 22, 2010 12:23:46 PM
My two faves were Ping Pong Dim Sum’s chicken puff and Pawtowmack Farm’s goat cheese filled cracker... SO GOOOOOOD!
Posted by: bccoreo, Jul 22, 2010 08:17:51 AM
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