Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.

Power-Breakfasting on Chilaquiles

By Jasmine Touton   Published Monday, April 21, 2008

Oversized sticky buns are one of the sweeter morning offerings at Restaurant K.

Oversized sticky buns are one of the sweeter morning offerings at Restaurant K.

Those who long for the sun-soaked flavors of New Mexico, Arizona, and South Carolina might want to grab a forkful of the new Southwest-inspired breakfast offerings at Alison Swope’s expense-account dining room, Restaurant K.

Gone is the usual breakfast fare of sweet and savory. Instead, the menu provides kick and spice with huevos motulenos —a Yucatán-inspired breakfast tostada with refried beans, ham, peas, and queso fresco. Some may not think the chilaquiles with eggs—a green-tomatillo-sauced, “deconstructed” enchilada—would prove easy to stomach so early in the morning. Flavors in both the huevos and the chilaquiles, however, are mild enough to go with coffee and fresh-squeezed orange juice.

Homier choices include an oversize sticky bun and banana-pecan French toast. The moist banana-pecan bread is so sweet that it hardly needs the real maple syrup it’s served with. A wedge of blue-crab quiche with corn-and-egg custard filling offers generous portions of crab meat but only a hint of the promised Gruyère cheese.

The real kicker: biscuits and gravy served Southwest style with chorizo gravy and eggs. It might just convince out-of-towners that DC is in touch with its below-the- Mason-Dixon-Line roots. Just don’t tell them the chef hails from the south . . . of Philadelphia.

Restaurant K, 1700 K St., NW; 202-974-6545; restaurantkbyalisonswope.com. Open for breakfast Tuesday through Friday 7:30 to 10 AM.

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