The spot: Gordon Biersch Brewery, 900 F Street; 202-783-5454.

The drink: Fest Bier (an unfiltered Munich-style lager that's been fermenting for six weeks on-site—Gordon Biersch has an in-house brewery behind glass).

The price: $11 for the liter mug; $5.50 for the half-liter; $4.50 for the 0.4-liter, the closest counterpart to an average bar's portion.

First impression: Frothy and festive—especially for anyone who watched the keg-tapping process live on Wednesday. A beer wench-ified female staff, sporting lace-up tops and petticoat frills, walked around with platters of Knockwurst, braised cabbage and stone-ground mustard for dipping. Unfortunately, the special costume is a one-time deal, and and not a daily get-up. Guzzling Festbier down from a huge Big Gulp-sized mug was part of the whole Bavarian experience.

Last impression: After a few more ounces, and a few more, the amber-colored lager tasted salty and watered-down. Very hard to finish all 32 ounces, but after a bit more 'wurst and kraut, or anything on the special Oktoberfest menu (mmm, spaetzle), you'll need this yeasty liquid to wash it all down. Festbier is on tap until at least late-October, but local Gordon Biersch brewmaster Jason Oliver said the keg may not run out until December.

Grade: B.

Gordon Biersh Breweries in Tysons Corner and Rockville are also celebrating with Festbier.