Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.

Tasting Notes: Wines of the Virginia Garagistes

By Dave McIntyre   Published Monday, March 03, 2008

Wineworks Red 2006 is a great match for burgers and sausages on the grill.

Wineworks Red 2006 is a great match for burgers and sausages on the grill.

In the March issue of The Washingtonian, I profile two winemakers whom I consider examples of “Virginia’s garagistes.” Much like the garagistes of Bordeaux, these small-production winemakers emphasize quality over the trappings of the good life—they make really good wines without the flash of a fancy chateau or a high-priced French consultant.

Here are my tasting notes of their wines:

Michael Shaps 2004 Petit Verdot, $30: This is a stylish wine, well-polished with new oak but with plenty of fruit to give it balance and structure. Blackberry, cherry, clove, and a hint of pepper with a long, silky finish. Classy wine.

Wineworks White 2006, $12–$14: A blend of 65 percent Viognier and 35 percent Vidal (a French-American hybrid grape), this wine is refreshing and vibrant, with an off-dry finish. Much like the Chester Gap Cuvee Manseng described below, this is a uniquely Virginia wine in that it blends two grapes that are unlikely to be grown together anywhere else in the world. It’s delicious and fun, and a great patio wine for the summer of ’08.

Wineworks Red 2006, $12–$14: A soft and pleasant red, ideal for casual fare such as burgers or sausages on the grill. A blend of 55 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 percent Cabernet Franc, and 15 percent Norton.
 

Wineworks Norton 2006, $12–$14: Norton fans consider it the Great Red Hope of Virginia. I’m not one of them. To me, a well-made Norton still tastes like Welch’s grape juice sucked through a garden hose. This is a well-made Norton.

Chester Gap 2006 Viognier, $16: Peach, lime, and jasmine flowers—very focused through stainless steel fermentation and aging.

Chester Gap 2006 Viognier Reserve, $19: Creamy in taste and texture, floral with orange-blossom aromas, yet fatter than the regular Viognier because of the oak aging. Full, long finish.

Chester Gap 2006 Cuvee Manseng, $19: A blend of two-thirds Petit Manseng and one-third Viognier, born of desperation three vintages ago when the Petit Manseng didn’t quite ripen enough for a dessert wine before the autumn rains came. Winemaker Bernd Jung picked it earlier than he wanted and blended in some Viognier to tame the acids and sugars. Voila! A quintessential Virginia wine that probably could be made nowhere else in the world—are there any other regions producing both Petit Manseng and Viognier? This wine works, with ripe, vibrant fruit and a round, dry but ripe/sweet finish. It’s a blend that should be widely copied in Virginia.

Chester Gap 2005 Merlot, $18
: Cocoa, coffee, plum, and cherry. Quite stylish with a good finish.

Chester Gap 2005 Cabernet Franc, $18
: Coffee and toffee, with the white pepper and cherry that signal the varietal. Very good quality.

Comments


These wnes have only just received federal label approval, that is why there are just making their way to the market. In Charlottesville, they are being sold at Market St Wine Shop. I will have a location in Annapolis
by the end of today. Any wine shop can get them for you, you just need to ask. Michael did not mean to be pompous. He meant that the wines are so new, we are just trying to get them in the market now. Sorry for the delay.
We would love for you to try them.

Posted by: Christine -- The Country Vintner, Mar 17, 2008 05:44:26 AM

Carol Ann - a small correction - there should be about a dozen wines available for tasting at Virginia Wineworks by this summer.

Posted by: Dave McIntyre, Mar 15, 2008 01:19:29 PM

Shelly -
Unfortunately, state laws make it difficult to distribute wines from other states. I doubt the Wineworks wines have made it into Maryland distribution. If you ever get to Northern Virginia, you might try looking at some of the better retailers there, though I’d call first and ask. Also, Total Wine stores do a pretty good job of representing Virginia wine - they might have some.

Posted by: Dave McIntyre, Mar 14, 2008 10:31:44 AM

Carol Ann -
As I mentioned in the magazine article, the Virginia Wineworks wines are just now being released, so they may not be widely available even in the Charlottesville area. They are distributed by Country Vintner - if you want to buy them, have your retailer call his CV rep. That’s why we mention distributors in our wine articles.

And I believe Shaps was referring to the out-of-the-way location of his winery - the quote you take out of context was not referring to the availability of his wines, but rather that the winery was not putting an "OPEN" sign to welcome tourists who happen to be driving by. Since the article was finished, Shaps told me they have set up a small tasting area and will be welcoming visitors by appointment. Later this spring they should have about 20 wines from various labels produced there, available for sampling and purchase.

Posted by: Dave McIntyre, Mar 14, 2008 10:29:13 AM

If you live in Annapolis and you want to purchase Wineworks wines, I suggest you try and figure out exactly where they are located. I live in the Charlottesville area and haven’t seen any of these wines anywhere for sale yet (Market Street Wine Shop, Whole Foods, World Market, etc.)

So, as Michael Shaps so smugly put it, "You can taste our wines, if you can find us."

How pompous is that?

Posted by: Carol Ann, Mar 08, 2008 12:32:17 PM

I live in Annapolis. Where would I be able to purchase the Wineworks wines in this article?

Posted by: Shelly, Mar 05, 2008 09:19:55 AM

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