Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.

First Look: La Sandia

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Mex appeal in the mall.

By Todd Kliman ,   Ann Limpert ,   Cynthia Hacinli   Published Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Freshly made guacamole is one of the better picks at La Sandia. Photograph by Stacy Zarin-Goldberg.

Between the noisy toddlers and the electronica soundtracks, even a short walk through Tysons Corner Center can be an audiovisual assault. There’s no respite at La Sandía, a Mexican restaurant and tequila bar where you’re greeted by a booming merengue beat and a Frida Kahlo palette of colors on its walls.

This is the second area restaurant from Denver-based chef Richard Sandoval, who owns the flashier—and more ambitious and expensive—Latin-Asian fusion dining room Zengo in DC’s Penn Quarter, a favorite of the minidress crowd. Worn-out shoppers and families with small children make up most of La Sandía’s customers.

The menu is a traipse through Sandoval’s native Mexico and amounts to a sometimes compelling, sometimes dispiriting travelogue. There is a fine rendition of chicken mole, and guacamole, mashed tableside in a molcajete, is full of bright cilantro flavor. A generous serving of shrimp ceviche errs on the soupy side but gets a nice kick from serrano chilies.

Comments

We had the Restaurant Week lunch which was fantastic. We are two Californians marooned in this wasteland of bad East Coast Mexican food and our meal put us in so much of a stupor that we braved mall shopping. We took all our server’s suggestions: shrimp ceviche had bite, mango mojito was unique-good, pork carnitas sope was a great mix of crunchy, spicy, sweet, flan was the creamiest with wonderful carmelization and touch of pina. We felt like we were judges on Top Chef! They unapologetically offer smoky black beans and corn tortillas. Go there for sophisticated modern Mexican, not the cheesy refried pinto beans glopped on a plate with sour cream adn a black olive on top. Order something more special than tableside guac for appetizer, and you will be dazzled.

Posted by: tgriffith, Aug 31, 2009 06:10:13 AM

I went there yesterday with my sister and we were both blown away by everything we ordered. Really blown away. Guac, rock shrimp ceviche, pulled pork something or other, and braised pork with pumpkin seeds. Margaritas were the best. Service was decent, ambiance was good. I would go back again and again if the food is that good every time.

Posted by: Adam, Apr 20, 2009 04:21:22 PM

That’s too bad - I’ve been there multiple times and have yet to be disappointed. The Queso Fundido was all the best parts that warm, gooey, cheese promises to be. Fish tacos, as has been mentioned, were nice and done right. Sangria, while not as good as Jaleo’s, is a close second. Admittedly on the pricey side, but in terms of good Mexican (that isn’t preceded by Tex-), I don’t think you can go wrong (short of coming into the city to eat at Oyamel, another Jose Andres shout-out).

Posted by: Eric, Oct 02, 2008 12:58:22 PM

The prices are on the high side for what you get. The service was just okay - not good, but didn’t make me angry either. The chips and salsa weren’t anything special, but my fish tacos were wonderful. Fish was cooked just right in a nice and crispy batter on tasty homemade-like corn tortilla’s. If in the mall at dinner time, I’d stop in again for the same item - assuming it was in the budget for the week.

Posted by: bkc, Aug 21, 2008 08:07:06 AM

Not a great experience! I had high hopes after eating at the restaurant in Denver. Food was just, just, okay. No piquant flavors, rather dull. Would not return, isn’t cheap, and service, while trying is just that. Really sad. We need more good restros in NoVa.

Posted by: Patty, Aug 20, 2008 05:24:08 PM

I took my mother to dinner there shortly after they opened the the service and food were horrible. I had the fish tacos and half of the fish were raw. The chips were double fried and very oily. The fajitas were unremarkable and the band was a nice touch but they were just too loud. I told all my friends not to go.

Posted by: recent diner, Aug 20, 2008 12:28:45 PM

I visited this restaurant soon after it opened with a group of friends and our experience was a disaster! The service was horrible and we were mislead by a so called "Happy Hour Special" which was not the case when the bill arrived...the Management was not even that accomodating! We’ve had much better Mexican food and service for that matter, elsewhere. :-)

Posted by: WeKnowGoodMexian!, Aug 20, 2008 11:30:20 AM

I’ve been, and it’s really good. Fantastic guac and salsa. The guava margarita is amazing. Best restaurant in Tysons, no question.

Posted by: alaaro, Aug 20, 2008 10:09:17 AM

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