Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.
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Last, Best Crabs of the Season
By
Todd Kliman
,
Cynthia Hacinli
,
Ann Limpert
Published Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Photograph by Matthew Worden.
Crab feasts used to be a ritual for a lot of Washingtonians; these days, with a bushel costing upward of $200, it’s an indulgence. It doesn’t have to be, thanks to a superb new dish at Johnny’s Half Shell—barbecue crabs, on the menu every Friday through September. The preparation is simple if slightly heretical to native ears: Four large hard-shell crabs are cleaned and cut in half—then deep-fried and coated in a mixture of Gulf Coast spices. The dish pays homage to the original barbecue crabs concocted four decades ago by the legendary Sartin’s in East Texas. The meat, though twice cooked, is succulent and sweet. This is eat-with-your-hands-and-let-the-spices- fall-where-they-may eating, and it’s worth every penny of the 25 bucks. Johnny's Half Shell, 400 N. Capitol St., NW; 202-737-0400; johnnyshalfshell.net.
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