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Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.

First Look: Ray's Hell-Burger

By Todd Kliman , Ann Limpert , Cynthia Hacinli

Photograph by Scott Suchman.

At Michael Landrum’s new burger place, Ray’s Hell-Burger, the decorations include a pirate flag, butcher-shop diagrams, and piles of red meat waiting for the grinder in a starkly lit open kitchen. It might look like something out of Sweeney Todd, but instead of the worst pies in London, you’ll find the best burgers in Arlington. Or anywhere in the area.

That’s quite a feat considering that everyone from culinary superstar Michel Richard to Top Chef also-ran Spike Mendelsohn is battling for burger supremacy. Landrum’s thick patties—you get a hefty ten ounces for $6.95—are made from a blend of hand-trimmed prime beef, some of which comes from his Ray’s the Steaks restaurant a few doors down. Charred over an open flame and cooked to order, they eat like steaks; you can even order one “au poivre.”

You’ll pay up to $5 extra for certain fancy cheeses, including a wonderfully runny Époisses, but a Danish bleu and a smoky mozzarella are both a buck. Embellishments such as sherried mushrooms and caramelized onions come free. So do the sides: corn on the cob and watermelon wedges.

 

If we have a complaint, it’s with the sesame brioche bun, which is too puffily thick and tends to be dry. But that’s a quibble. As long as Landrum’s manning the meat grinder, we’re game to go to hell anytime.

Ray’s Hell-Burger, 1713 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-841-0001. Open daily for dinner, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday for lunch.


Category Tags: New Restaurants


Comments


Ray’s has great burgers... hands down, but the best thing about is the FREE - yes, I say FREE - corkage policy. If you’re a wino like me but don’t always want to go to an expensive or upscale place that has a BYO policy, or if you want to feel Miles at the end of Sideways drinking a ’61 Cheval Blanc in a crappy burger joint, bring a bottle of great wine and enjoy a burger. It’s a great experience. I wrote about it here:

http://www.thefreewineblog.com/2011/12/whats-greatest-thing-in-world.html

Posted by: S.P. Mulligan, Dec 17, 2011 02:34:15 PM

The best I ever I ever tasted is Z Burger in Tenely Town. They have jucy burgers. There bun is very tastee. There onion rings are the best in town. They also have over 50 milk shakes. There potatoes are fresh cut in the store.

Posted by: Jacob, Feb 20, 2009 03:19:20 PM

They *are* open for lunch now, every day but Monday, starting at noon. Remember to bring cash! (They have a no-fee ATM on site.)

Also, no more free sides. But you can get free cocoa before you leave.

Posted by: Arlington foodie, Nov 20, 2008 07:22:07 PM

Incredible burgers! The best in the area. One negative thing about the place... it’s not open during weekdays for Lunch!

Posted by: Rey, Oct 07, 2008 08:02:47 AM

You’re wrong about the brioche bun; its needed because the burgers are so juicy that by the end of the meal, lesser buns will be soaked thru. These are the best burgers I’ve ever had.

Posted by: SSK, Sep 27, 2008 03:45:39 PM

No veggie burgers, but they will do a fancy grilled cheese!

Posted by: Daniel, Sep 25, 2008 12:50:00 PM

excellent!!!! drooool

Posted by: Priya Raj, Sep 15, 2008 03:20:22 PM

I wonder if they veggie burgers?

Posted by: Doug, Sep 15, 2008 12:27:17 PM

yum!

Posted by: diana, Sep 15, 2008 11:28:19 AM

I’m the mood for a good burger, will have to give this place a try!

Posted by: Diana, Sep 15, 2008 11:23:28 AM

Really love the Hell Burger!

Posted by: Ron, DC, Sep 15, 2008 11:17:14 AM

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