Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.
The Big Chill: How Chefs Are Embracing Fall Ingredients
What tomatoes and corn are to summer cooking, squash and pumpkin are to the autumn palate. Now that cooler days are here, we checked in with local chefs to see what ingredients they’re most excited about using this season.
Vidalia's venison tartar is accented with cranberries.
• R.J. Cooper, Vidalia Favorite fall ingredients: Chestnut, kuri squash, huckleberry, maple, pear, beet, fennel.
Fans of this modern Southern dining room know that the menu is constantly updated. And that’s a good thing, especially with Cooper’s love of all things fall. The smoky sauce on a red-tail-venison carpaccio is made with cranberries, and a pumpkin soup uses chestnuts grown at Pennsylvania’s Toigo Orchards. Kuri squash—a sweet, dense winter variety—becomes the base for a dessert custard with five-spice marshmallow and walnut brittle.
Chittum, known for her unusual ice creams (she’s done flavors with Gorgonzola and Taleggio cheeses), has a slew of savory desserts in mind for this Georgetown seafood restaurant’s fall menu. We like the sound of her butternut-squash ice cream, which will be served with spiced pumpkin seeds and a hot-buttered-rum sauce. To go with it, she’s deciding between either pumpkin cheesecake with a gingersnap crust or sweet-potato pie, although she's leaning towards the latter. “I thought it’d be kind of cool to do a sweet gaufrette, which is a fancy French way to say potato chip.” She’s also planning a sweet apple-and-currant bread pudding, which she’ll pair with bourbon ice cream and gooey caramel sauce.
• Tony Conte, the Oval Room Favorite fall ingredients: Butternut squash, Granny Smith apple, carrot.
Downtown DC’s Oval Room isn’t known for conventionality, and the dessert menu, crafted by newly appointed pastry chef Cara Reilly, follows suit. The seasonally changing vacherin takes an autumnal turn with a layering of house-made Granny Smith apple sorbet and cinnamon meringue studded with red-hot candies. On the savory side, Conte shows his love for rabbit food with a cut of prime beef sided with red, yellow, and white carrots from Pennsylvania and served with multigrain risotto flavored with passion-fruit mustard.
• Shannon Overmiller, the Majestic Favorite fall ingredients: Chestnut, beet, butternut squash, maple, apple, celery root.
At this retro comfort food spot in Old Town Alexandria, the Maryland-bred Overmiller puts a number of nostalgic fall foods on her menu, such as a candied-chestnut soup, butternut-squash ravioli, and tart apple strudel. Beets turn up in a more unusual way—she incorporates them into a vinaigrette that accents salmon tartar with bleu cheese.
• Barry Koslow, Mendocino Grille & Wine Bar Favorite fall ingredients: Butternut squash, turnip, celery root, pear, almond.
Koslow appreciates the heartiness of autumn cooking, so his menu is filled with such robust offerings as mushroom soup with a ricotta potsticker; butternut-squash ravioli with Robiola cheese and sage; and braised wild boar with roasted turnips and celery root over black-pepper pappardelle. For dessert, Koslow whips up a pear-and-almond tart with brandied-fig ice cream.
• Matt Hill, Charlie Palmer Steak Favorite fall ingredients: Porcini mushroom, apple, butternut squash, pear, gingerbread.
At this contemporary Capitol Hill steakhouse, Hill’s fall menu is mostly inspired by game. He pairs squab with porcini mushrooms, and duck confit with apples. The butternut-squash soup is jazzed up with roasted bananas and mascarpone dumplings. For dessert, he flavors ice cream with gingerbread and dollops it onto pear-and-cranberry cobbler.
• Morou Outtara, Farrah Olivia Favorite fall ingredient: Butternut squash.
Outtara, chef/owner of this forward-thinking Old Town restaurant, has traded in the summer squash of his goat-cheese gnudi—airy Italian dumplings—for a more autumn-appropriate butternut squash. It’s blended with onion, garlic, and mascarpone and Parmesan cheeses to make a creamy sauce, then topped with arugula, onions, and tomatoes.
Really Appreciate this article, can I set it up so I receive an alert email whenever you publish a new update?
order Cialis <a href="http://buygenericlist.com/buy-order-cheap-generic-cialis-tadalafil-online/">order Cialis</a>
Posted by: online Cialis, Feb 06, 2012 11:35:09 PM
Excellent goods from you, man. I have take note your stuff previous to and you’re just too wonderful. I actually like what you have bought right here, really like what you are saying and the best way during which you are saying it. You’re making it enjoyable and you still care for to keep it wise. I can’t wait to learn much more from you. This is really a great site.
Posted by: web pharmacy uk, Feb 06, 2012 10:03:35 PM
I liked up to you’ll obtain carried out proper here. The caricature is attractive, your authored subject matter stylish. nevertheless, you command get got an nervousness over that you want be handing over the following. sick surely come more earlier again since precisely the same just about a lot continuously within case you protect this increase.
Unquestionably imagine that which you stated. Your favourite reason seemed to be at the internet the easiest factor to consider of. I say to you, I definitely get irked while other folks think about concerns that they plainly do not recognise about. You controlled to hit the nail upon the highest as neatly as defined out the whole thing without having side effect , other people could take a signal. Will probably be back to get more. Thanks
Posted by: cheapest drugstore uk, Feb 06, 2012 05:03:26 PM
Terrific work! That is the type of info that should be shared around the net. Shame on Google for not positioning this post higher! Come on over and seek advice from my web site . Thank you =)
order tadacip <a href="http://buycheapgeneric.info/purchase-buy-tadacip-price-cheap/">online tadacip</a>
Posted by: web drugstore, Feb 06, 2012 03:58:51 PM
Have you ever thought about publishing an ebook or guest authoring on other blogs? I have a blog centered on the same topics you discuss and would love to have you share some stories/information. I know my visitors would appreciate your work. If you are even remotely interested, feel free to shoot me an e mail.
order propecia <a href="http://buycheapgeneric.info/cheapest-buy-propecia-order-sale/">online propecia</a>
Posted by: buy Levitra Oral, Feb 06, 2012 03:30:06 PM
Thank you for the auspicious writeup. It in fact was a amusement account it. Look advanced to more added agreeable from you! By the way, how can we communicate?
order cipro <a href="http://buygenericdrugs.info/buy-get-cipro-cheap-get/">generic cipro</a>
Posted by: buy now zithromax, Feb 06, 2012 11:29:12 AM
Hi just wanted to give you a quick heads up and let you know a few of the images aren’t loading correctly. I’m not sure why but I think its a linking issue. I’ve tried it in two different internet browsers and both show the same outcome.
Posted by: best price zithromax, Feb 06, 2012 06:30:44 AM
Thanks for the tips about credit repair on this excellent web-site. What I would advice people is usually to give up this mentality that they may buy right now and shell out later. Being a society all of us tend to make this happen for many things. This includes getaways, furniture, along with items we really want to have. However, you must separate a person’s wants out of the needs. As long as you’re working to boost your credit score make some trade-offs. For example you may shop online to economize or you can visit second hand stores instead of expensive department stores with regard to clothing.
online drugstore without prescription sale discount canada http://health-drugstore.com/
Posted by: get clozaril, Feb 06, 2012 02:43:33 AM
I agree about the venison. That "sauce" looks like something my cat produced. Yeesh.
Posted by: Marco, Oct 29, 2008 10:11:25 AM
What a great blog! It seems like you can’t go wrong with butternut squash as all but one chef have it on their list. I would also argue that Charlie Palmer Steak is hands down the best restaurant of those shown here - I couldn’t find something I didn’t like on their menu.
Posted by: Chaz C., Oct 26, 2008 02:19:14 PM
One less Bambi who is now on a platter is a good thing. Problem is these venison were most likely farm raised and not taken from local fields and forests. And as a result we face a greater chance of Bambi committing suicide when he/she jumps out in front of our vehicles.
Posted by: Fred, Oct 23, 2008 07:49:37 AM
That venison stuff is not so appealing looking. What’s going on there?
Posted by: Tracey, Oct 22, 2008 12:05:14 PM
That venison tartar looks tar-dicey
Posted by: Buddy, Oct 22, 2008 10:47:58 AM
Post a comment
Feel free to leave a comment or ask a question. Because of the prevalence of spam, we ask that you fill out the code in the image below to help us eliminate spam comments. By posting here, you affirm that you are 13 years of age or older. Washingtonian.com reserves the right to remove or edit content once posted.