Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.
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By
Dave McIntyre
These days, it’s hard to get excited about a $7 bottle of wine. Too many are pleasant enough but simple and, ultimately, boring. So it’s a pleasure to discover one that’s a real gem—with enough verve and energy to interest even the most jaded oenophile.
The Domaine des Hospices de Canet 2005, a “simple country wine”—or vin de pays—from the Côtes Catalanes in the Languedoc-Rousillon region of southwestern France, is one such find. A blend of 60 percent Carignane, with the rest split evenly among Syrah and Merlot, the wine is like a softened version of a Côtes du Rhône. Juicy, grapey, and fun, it still has enough structure and grip to keep it interesting. The winery is owned by Domaine Cazes, one of the largest—if not the largest—producers of biodynamic wines in France. Biodynamic is beyond organic—farming is conducted according to the phases of the moon and some bizarre rituals sanctioned by a German organization called Demeter. The Domaine des Hospices de Canet is not certified biodynamic, but the farming practices are essentially the same.
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Category Tags: Wine & Spirits
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By
Ann Limpert
There’s a reason chili at a Super Bowl party is about as ubiquitous as hottie twins in beer commercials: It’s a hard-to-screw-up, one-pot dish that’ll feed a ton of people. In anticipation of this Sunday’s showdown between the New England Patriots and the New York Giants, we asked chefs from both sides—Newark native and Blue Duck Tavern chef Brian McBride and New Haven-bred Tony Conte of the Oval Room—for their back-pocket chili recipes. McBride handed over a three-meat version that he says is all about the aroma. Conte’s version is more traditional, with optional kicks of cilantro and chipotle. Which do you think wins? Let us know in the comments.
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Category Tags: Events, Recipes
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By
Kate Nerenberg
A new wine bar opens up in the Logan Circle neighborhood.
A first look at Cork's bar area. Photo by Brian Liu/ToolboxDC.
For ten years, newlyweds and Logan Circle residents Diane Gross and Khalid Pitts have been watching as their neighborhood slowly shed its identity as a Dupont castoff. With the opening of their brainchild, Cork Wine Bar, they’re helping carve a new niche for the growing area. As of now, many residents know it as the new spot replacing Sparky’s Espresso Bar—itself a favorite local hangout. It won’t be long, we’re guessing, before residents embrace the rustically elegant Cork.
The name is an homage to the roster of 20 wines by the glass and more than 130 by the bottle. While the list focuses on the Rhône region and Old World varietals, the owners wanted everyone—from a seasoned oenophile to “the guy on his first date,” as Pitts says—to feel comfortable ordering wine.
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Category Tags: Food & Restaurant News, Wine & Spirits, New Restaurants
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By
Kate Nerenberg
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Jasmine Touton
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Elizabeth Farrell
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Peter Bryce
When the New York Giants stare down the New England Patriots on Super Bowl Sunday, many local bars and restaurants will be joining in the fun.
Whether you’re in the mood for New England or Manhattan clam chowder, here are spots that feature cheerworthy drink and food specials. For even more places with great Super Bowl drink specials, check out our After Hours roundup.
The Big Hunt 1345 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202-785-2333; thebighuntdc.com This Dupont Circle dive is hosting a New England vs. New York culinary showdown. Choose among $8 specials such as New England clam chowder with Harpoon IPA or Manhattan clam chowder with a Brooklyn Lager, or two Boston red hots with a Harpoon or two Coney Island hot dogs with a Brooklyn Lager.
Clyde’s of Chevy Chase 5441 Wisconsin Ave., Chevy Chase; 301-951-9600; clydes.com Head to the downstairs Race Bar to catch the game on a big-screen plus five other TVs placed around the circular bar. You can munch on free halftime fixings (wings, chips and salsa, and hot dogs), and selected pints of beer will be $2.50. Pregame festivities start at 1 PM.
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Category Tags: Food & Restaurant News, Events
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By
Todd Kliman
Todd breaks big news: celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay of Hell's Kitchen may be coming to take over Maestro.
The kitchen at Maestro was remarkable for its serenity during dinner time, a result of the headsets the cooks were all made to wear by former executive chef Fabio Trabocchi, who absconded this Fall to run the show at Fiamma, in Manhattan. It sometimes made the pass look a little like a Time-Life Books operation.
But now serenity is about to find its opposite -- in theory, if not in practice.
According to a well-placed source, Gordon Ramsay appears all but certain to take over the kitchen at Maestro, ending months of speculation about what restaurateur and/or chef was going to assume control of one of the region's best restaurants. The negotiation at this point is simply over money. Another source had told me, weeks ago, that the Ritz-Carlton was divided over who should command the kitchen; one faction was pushing hard for Roberto Donna, the other wanted someone outside the city, someone who could come in and make a splash.
Don't expect hurling imprecations, throwing plates and other made-for-TV theatrics. Ramsay himself won't be coming, although he will have total control. A hand-picked protege (a woman, according to the well-placed source) will lead the revamped Maestro.
Read on for Todd's Tuesday online chat.
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By
Sara Levine
Daniel Boulud protege Bertrand Chemel has traded New York for NoVa.
Devoted fans of 2941, the foodie destination in Falls Church, were up in arms when founding chef Jonathan Krinn parted ways with the restaurant in October. The owners worked fast to find talent to fill his shoes. Earlier this month, Bertrand Chemel—who’d just earned three stars from the New York Times as chef de cuisine at Daniel Boulud’s Café Boulud—relocated from New York to head the kitchen.
Chemel, a native of central France, worked for several French chefs before coming to the States in 1999 to work for Boulud at his New York flagship, Daniel, where he rose to sous chef. He then spent two years under Laurent Tourondel (proprietor of BLT Steak, among others) at the now-closed Cello.
After nine years in New York, Chemel says he was craving a change—and he found one, trading the Upper East Side for the woods of Fairfax. He now lives in McLean with his wife and 17-month-old daughter.
Chemel has already rolled out 2941’s new menu, which includes such luxe-sounding dishes as kona kampachi sashimi with Calvisius caviar, foie gras terrine with persimmon chutney, and braised beef with fresh black truffles. He says to expect lots of changes, not just seasonally but weekly.
Here he shares some of his personal food favorites, including the rustic French fare he misses from childhood, the Maldon salt he loves “on anything,” and the staples of his home fridge.
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Category Tags: Interviews
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By
Marissa Conrad
Jerk-chicken lollipops? They're here, along with sweet-potato crème brûlée.
Photo by David Rutenberg.
The new Dupont Circle restaurant Café Tropé closed for a few hours Wednesday night to host a media tasting of some of the menu’s French-Caribbean fare. Executive chef Howsoon Cham, who is in the process of selling his Georgetown restaurant, Red Ginger, and was once chef de cuisine at Georgia Brown’s, cooked four courses for guests, ranging from jerk-chicken lollipops to rack of lamb with mint pistou.
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Category Tags: New Restaurants
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Woo at the Zoo, the opening of “Genesis Robot” at Synetic Theater, and the Washington DC International Wine & Food Festival.
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Our recommendations for the best in live music over the next seven days.
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Ann Limpert
Though Ann Limpert graduated from Connecticut College with a degree in art history and creative writing, she spent most of her time in New England debating the merits of warm, buttery lobster rolls vs. cold, mayo-y ones. She spent two years covering the internet for Entertainment Weekly magazine (highlights include interviewing the Beastie Boys and dancing to "Livin' la Vida Loca" with Penn Jillette), then left to hone her kitchen skills at the Institute of Culinary Education. She has worked as a cook at several New York restaurants, researched and edited cookbooks, and now writes about food and restaurants for the Washingtonian.
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Kate Nerenberg
Kate Nerenberg started as an editorial intern at The Washingtonian in January 2008 and became an assistant editor in September 2008. A native of West Hartford, Connecticut, she spent the first half of her writing life as a sports reporter, and was the editor of the athletics section for the newspaper and student-run magazine while at Middlebury College. A joint Spanish and Art History major, Kate graduated in 2005 and took off on a year-long journey around the world. After tasting everything from fried crickets to lavish Turkish breakfasts, she realized she wanted to devote herself to writing about food, a lifelong passion. She lives with three roommates just east of Logan Circle in a house that's often filled with the smell of sauteed garlic, warm banana bread, or fried bacon and eggs.
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Rina Rapuano
Rina Rapuano's English degree from Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond put her on the path to becoming a managing editor of a weekly business magazine; a freelance copy editor; and assistant managing news editor—and later the lifestyles editor—at a weekly paper in Maryland. But she realized her true calling when her descriptions of meals to friends and colleagues always seemed to end with the same statement: “You're making me hungry.” Frankly, it was making Rina hungry, too. She chucked her day job in 2006 to become a full-time freelance writer focusing mainly on food, and now works as assistant food and wine editor at The Washingtonian.
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