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Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.

Designer-Salad Shops Keep on Coming

By Sara Levine

The salad spread at Chop't in Penn Quarter.

Chop’t owners Colin McCabe and Tony Shure closed their brand-new Penn Quarter salad shop for a few hours yesterday afternoon to entertain media with samples of their signature greens and wrap sandwiches. A dressing tasting offered a buffet of carrot and celery sticks to dip into any of the 28 flavors. We especially liked the carrot ginger, General Tso’s chipotle, spa balsamic, and smoky bacon Russian—but don’t kid yourself that you’re eating a healthy lunch if you opt for that last one on your lettuce. It’s amped up with lots of smoked bacon and is so thick that it could double as a dip.

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Category Tags: Food Trends, New Restaurants

Plácido Domingo, Pastry Chef?

By Sara Levine

No marzipan mushrooms here. Domingo's bûche comes with a chocolate baton and edible gold tassels.

For Francophiles, it wouldn’t be Christmas without bûche de Noël, the festive, marzipan-decorated log of chocolate, cream, and sponge cake. At the Willard hotel’s year-old Parisian bistro, Café du Parc, the bûche pays homage not only to the holidays but also to local arts and culture. To kick off what will be an annual tradition of honoring a DC cultural leader with cake, this year’s log was inspired and created by Spanish-born Plácido Domingo, the celebrated tenor and director of the Washington National Opera.

We were skeptical as to how Domingo and pastry chef Morgan Bomboy would translate opera into dessert. Sure, there’s the opera cake—a coffee-and-almond-flavored gâteau that a French pastry shop named after the Paris Opera more than a century ago—but that dessert never claimed to “elegantly evoke operatic motifs,” as Café du Parc promises.

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Category Tags: Holiday Eats

Doing It Yourself: Recreating Duke Ziebert's Legendary Pickles

By Howard Means

Author Howard Means spent months tweaking his pickle recipe until the spears tasted just like the ones he remembers at Duke's.

Many things were memorable about the restaurants Duke Zeibert ran at the corner of Connecticut Avenue and L Street in DC between 1950 and 1994. He had to close the first one for several years, beginning in 1980, while a new building went up on top of the Farragut North Metro station. When he reopened, Duke’s had moved from a street-level cavern to a light-filled location on the second floor.

The Redskins’ Super Bowl trophies always went on display first in Duke’s lobby. Inside, a good table put you close to Washington’s movers and shakers—and to some of the city’s oddities. I remember one day looking up from my brisket and seeing a knee go by. I kept looking up, but it seemed like forever before I got to the head. Manute Bol—all seven-foot-seven of him—had just signed with the Bullets, as the Wizards were then called. This was a coming-out luncheon for him, and Duke’s was the only place to hold it.

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Category Tags: From the Magazine, Cooking at Home

An Early Look at Domaso Trattoria Moderna

By Erin Zimmer

Domaso puts a new spin on doughnuts, filling them chestnut mousse, Concord grape, and rum-infused cream. Photographs by Erin Zimmer.

Hotel restaurants may have once had a reputation for being cheesy, but not anymore. Domaso Trattoria Moderna, inside Rosslyn’s new Hotel Palomar, wants to be as much a destination as the guest rooms.

Set on the fourth floor of a high-rise that overlooks Georgetown University’s Gothic spires across the Potomac, Domaso highlights northern-Italian cuisine—and that doesn’t mean just Tuscany. “I’m sick of people coming back from Italy who only rave about Tuscany, or think that Northern Italian food only means the Tuscan kind,” says Italian-born chef Massimo Fedozzi. Though he pays homage to the region with his panzanella (a traditional Tuscan bread salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion, and basil), much of the menu is inspired by the restaurant’s namesake, a fishing village in the Lombardy region. Urgiada soup, a Lake Como specialty made from barley and borlotti beans, is something you’re not likely to find on the menu at other haute Italian restaurants in the area.

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Category Tags: New Restaurants

Thanksgiving--Out of the Can and Straight to the Heart

By Erin Zimmer

Huw Griffiths of the Tabard Inn displays his pumpkin caramel pecan pie, made with canned filling.

With Thanksgiving approaching, we asked some of the area’s best chefs if they could jazz up the Thanksgiving-dinner staples—not by using gourmet foods but by including the cans and mixes that many cooks use but rarely fess up to. At first they balked. “Use a can opener?” one asked. “No crayfish tails in the stuffing?” another pouted. But off to their kitchens they went—and came up with a few tricks for turning Turkey Day warhorses into something memorable. Each recipe serves eight.

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Category Tags: From the Magazine, Holiday Eats, Recipes

Thanksgiving With All the Trimmings—and No Cleanup: Restaurants That Do It All for You

By Sara Levine , Erin Zimmer

Looking for a restaurant to head to on Thanksgiving? Here's our list of where to go—plus the menus of what they'll be serving.

Looking for more Thanksgiving ideas? Check out our complete Thanksgiving Dining Guide, with dozens of recipes from great local chefs, wine pairings, and how to roast the perfect turkey.

Ardeo, 3311 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202-244-6750. Starters on chef Trent Conry’s three-course menu include fall organic greens with grilled nectarines, goat cheese, and pecan dressing; butternut-squash risotto with chestnuts, currants, pepitas, and sage-chili butter; and watercress and endive with caramelized pears, fallen Gorgonzola soufflé, and walnut vinaigrette. Main courses are roast turkey with sausage stuffing, sweet-potato purée, apple-cranberry compote, and Calvados pan gravy; Arctic char with fava beans, crisp shiitakes, golden raisins, and caper brown-butter sauce; and roast prime rib with Yukon Gold potato purée, asparagus, and tarragon stone-ground mustard. Desserts include pumpkin cheesecake with caramel sauce, upside-down pear cake, and pecan cake with butter-pecan ice cream. Noon to 8; $37.50.

Bastille, 1201 N. Royal St., Alexandria; 703-519-3776. Chefs Christophe and Michelle Poteaux offer a three-course menu at their French bistro. Choices include roasted-parsnip bisque with crispy onions and pancetta; frisée-and-endive salad with goat-cheese cromesqui; baby spinach with foie gras on brioche toast; roasted pheasant breast with foie-gras rub, chestnut stuffing, cranberry chutney, sweet-potato-and-root purée, and sautéed greens; prime-rib au poivre with Cognac sauce, black-truffle gratin dauphinois, and wild mushrooms; and pan-roasted halibut filet with tarragon béarnaise sauce and Belgian-endive marmalade. For dessert, there’s pumpkin cheesecake with maple-pecan streusel, apple crumble, and Valrhona truffle cake. For an additional $4, you can try a selection of artisanal cheeses. 5 to 9 PM; $45.

Blue Duck Tavern, 1201 24th St., NW; 202-419-6755. Chef Brian McBride’s all-American feast features roast turkey breast and chestnut-stuffed leg with giblet gravy, made with organic turkey from Eberly Farm in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. There’s also suckling pig with bourbon peaches, Maine-lobster pot pie, chanterelle cornbread stuffing, baby yams, braised fall greens, pickled beets, and sweet-dumpling-squash purée. Desserts from pastry chef Laurent Merdy include classic apple pie with hand-cranked vanilla-bean ice cream. 10 to 3 for brunch, 6 to 10 for dinner; $80 for adults, $40 for children ages 6 to 12; under 6 free.

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Category Tags: Holiday Eats

The Wine Guy’s Picks for Thanksgiving

By Dave McIntyre

Are you scared of wine on Thanksgiving? If not, you probably haven’t been reading enough wine columns.

One of the biggest canards about wine writing is the annual Thanksgiving article. For some reason, bland, boring turkey is viewed as a difficult food for wine. Then, of course, there’s the tart or sickly-sweet cranberry sauce, the lumpy gravy, and the oysters in the stuffing. And everyone knows those tiny marshmallows on top of the sweet-potato casserole are just murder on your palate.

The Keepers of the Keys to the Kingdom (a.k.a. wine columnists) waste their ink and our time every November reinforcing this supposed fear of wine on Turkey Day with their dicta of what not to drink with this or that item on the menu.

Come off it, folks. With so many different flavors on the table, any wine is going to pair well with something. We may need to be careful about what we eat just before taking a sip, but if there’s a theme to wine with Thanksgiving dinner, it should be “Open one of everything!” 

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Category Tags: Holiday Eats, Wine & Spirits

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What to Do This Weekend: February 9 to 12

Woo at the Zoo, the opening of “Genesis Robot” at Synetic Theater, and the Washington DC International Wine & Food Festival. more

Music Picks: Jack’s Mannequin, All Things Gold, Steve Aoki

Our recommendations for the best in live music over the next seven days. more

Ann Limpert

Though Ann Limpert graduated from Connecticut College with a degree in art history and creative writing, she spent most of her time in New England debating the merits of warm, buttery lobster rolls vs. cold, mayo-y ones. She spent two years covering the internet for Entertainment Weekly magazine (highlights include interviewing the Beastie Boys and dancing to "Livin' la Vida Loca" with Penn Jillette), then left to hone her kitchen skills at the Institute of Culinary Education. She has worked as a cook at several New York restaurants, researched and edited cookbooks, and now writes about food and restaurants for the Washingtonian. more

Kate Nerenberg

Kate Nerenberg started as an editorial intern at The Washingtonian in January 2008 and became an assistant editor in September 2008. A native of West Hartford, Connecticut, she spent the first half of her writing life as a sports reporter, and was the editor of the athletics section for the newspaper and student-run magazine while at Middlebury College. A joint Spanish and Art History major, Kate graduated in 2005 and took off on a year-long journey around the world. After tasting everything from fried crickets to lavish Turkish breakfasts, she realized she wanted to devote herself to writing about food, a lifelong passion. She lives with three roommates just east of Logan Circle in a house that's often filled with the smell of sauteed garlic, warm banana bread, or fried bacon and eggs. more

Rina Rapuano

Rina Rapuano's English degree from Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond put her on the path to becoming a managing editor of a weekly business magazine; a freelance copy editor; and assistant managing news editor—and later the lifestyles editor—at a weekly paper in Maryland. But she realized her true calling when her descriptions of meals to friends and colleagues always seemed to end with the same statement: “You're making me hungry.” Frankly, it was making Rina hungry, too. She chucked her day job in 2006 to become a full-time freelance writer focusing mainly on food, and now works as assistant food and wine editor at The Washingtonian. more

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