Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.
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By
Ann Limpert
• Conspiracy on Top Chef? A commenter on Gawker claims that the crappy frozen scallops that brought down Spike Mendelsohn (sans fedora for once) were not part of guest judge Rick Tramonto’s restaurant kitchen, as Mendelsohn claimed, but were a plant by the show’s producers. Still, that doesn’t change the fact that Spike, who had first dibs on a walk-in fridge full of fresh ingredients, chose the bag o’ frozen critters anyway. Why are we on such heavy Spike watch? His family-owned burger joint, Good Stuff Eatery (303 Pennsylvania Ave., SE), is slated to open in the next few weeks on Capitol Hill. He tells Grub Street: “I’m really young, 27, and I didn’t want to open my fine-dining restaurant yet. All the critics would have been really on top of me, and I would have driven myself crazy. I’m giving it the branding of Starbucks; it’s a very well-branded store.” • Alain Ducasse, the venerable French chef who holds three triple-Michelin-starred restaurants (plus 19 others) in his repertoire, is opening in Washington. The Washington Post’s Tom Sietsema reports that he’s planning Adour at the St. Regis (923 16th St., NW) in downtown DC’s newly regilded St. Regis Hotel this fall. Designed by starry New York architect David Rockwell—who’s also responsible for visuals at the much-lauded Manhattan branch of Adour—the space will include wine vaults, hand-blown glass lights, and a 40-seat bar.
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Category Tags: Food & Restaurant News
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By
Kate Nerenberg
Brasserie Beck beer sommelier Bill Catron has some seriously potent potables. Photograph by Len DePas.
For those of you who prefer pints to Pinots, sip on this: A rare 1997 vintage Hurlimann Samichlaus lager, the only keg of its kind left in the world, has made its way to Washington. Brasserie Beck beer sommelier Bill Catron scored the exclusive Swiss barrel and will pair it and other Samichlaus vintages from the last ten years with a five-course dinner at the Belgian restaurant on Tuesday, June 3.
Zurich-based Hurlimann brewery kegged its last annual Samichlaus (Santa Claus) beer in 1997 on December 6—St. Nicholas Day—and all but one keg has been tapped. Scientist and brewery founder Albert Hurlimann spent 20 years tinkering with yeast strains to create his signature end-of-the-year beer but shuttered his operation in 2000.
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Category Tags: Events
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By
Ann Mah
The Top Chef gang. Courtesy of Bravo.
And so it all boils down to this: a set of sharp knives and a hunk of aged beef. As the penultimate episode of this season’s Top Chef begins, the chef contestants find themselves at Chicago’s famed Allen Brothers, which we discover is a nationally recognized meat purveyor. After donning heavy equipment, including something that resembles a breastplate and, to Richard’s horror, hairnets, the chefs are given a caveman-size hunk of beef and asked to cut individual, frenched chops in 20 minutes.
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Category Tags: Food Media
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By
Sara Levine
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Rina Rapuano
See our online-only Cheap Eats photo slideshow. Here’s how you can enjoy the cooking of some of the region’s most celebrated chefs without busting the budget.
At Restaurant Eve in Old Town, chef Cathal Armstrong offers a Lickity Split weekday menu that lets diners choose any two items for $13.50—including, say, a bowl of mussels and a glass of Petit Chenin Blanc or maybe an Irish BLT with chips and a miniature birthday cake for dessert.
Around the corner at Armstrong’s Majestic, the Royal Pick menu presents a similar deal—any item on the weekday lunch menu, plus a drink, for $12. That includes the Cod Niçoise, which normally goes for $21. Nana’s Sunday Dinner, which includes a meat, three sides, and dessert served family style, is $78 for four.
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Category Tags: From the Magazine
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By
Todd Kliman
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Ann Limpert
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Cynthia Hacinli
We check in on Poste, Sichuan Village, and Ceviche
Poste Moderne Brasserie Chef Robert Weland subscribes to the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” philosophy. Rather than make wholesale changes each season, Weland tweaks his lineup. And why not? Old reliables include succulent roast chicken, finely chopped Wagyu tartare, and a delicate sashimi of Kona kampachi (farm-raised yellowtail from Hawaii) with frizzled shavings of ginger. A recent visit makes us hope he keeps two more dishes: a velvety, port-spiked chicken-liver mousse on toasted baguette and an appetizer of grilled pork sausages with delicate pierogi that’s as filling as an entrée. The only downer? A server who was by turns flighty and condescending. •555 Eighth St., NW; 202-783-6060
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Category Tags: From the Magazine
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By
Ann Limpert
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Catherine Andrews
Country sausage smothered with peppers and onions at KBQ.
Photographs by Matthew Worden
The Washingtonian's annual guide to the area's 100 Best Bargain Restaurants just hit newsstands! We've got 27 new restaurants on the list, which you can read about in the June issue. For a preview, check out our online-only photo slideshow. >>Read our guide to gourmet dining on a budget—it tells you how to enjoy the cooking of some of the area’s most celebrated chefs without busting your bank account.
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Category Tags: From the Magazine
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By
Sara Levine
Top Chef's Spike Mendelsohn had his hat handed to him at New York's Mai House. Photograph courtesy of Bravo.
•In Washington-related Top Chef news . . . the kitchen reality show’s guest judge this week was none other than José Andrés, owner of Jaleo, Zaytinya, Oyamel, Café Atlántico, and Minibar. Padma Lakshmi’s introduction of the famed Spanish chef, though, made no mention of his DC mini-empire—just his new PBS series, Made in Spain. Contestant Spike Mendelsohn—who’s in the process of opening Good Stuff Eatery, a burger spot on Capitol Hill—managed to survive this week’s episode and move on to the final five, but Eater reports that he’s left his chef post at New York’s Mai House. Lest you think the fedora-sporting contestant may have actually won the show, it turns out he was fired. According to Eater’s source, Mai House owner Drew Nieporent told Spike: “Please pack your knives and go to DC to grill hamburgers.” •Assaggi brings a new Italian restaurant to the former Centro space in Bethesda but opens without its much-anticipated mozzarella bar. The Washington Post’s Tom Sietsema reassures cheese lovers that the six-foot-long bar, custom-designed for refrigerating and tasting cheeses, should arrive any day now.
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Category Tags: Food & Restaurant News
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Woo at the Zoo, the opening of “Genesis Robot” at Synetic Theater, and the Washington DC International Wine & Food Festival.
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Our recommendations for the best in live music over the next seven days.
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Ann Limpert
Though Ann Limpert graduated from Connecticut College with a degree in art history and creative writing, she spent most of her time in New England debating the merits of warm, buttery lobster rolls vs. cold, mayo-y ones. She spent two years covering the internet for Entertainment Weekly magazine (highlights include interviewing the Beastie Boys and dancing to "Livin' la Vida Loca" with Penn Jillette), then left to hone her kitchen skills at the Institute of Culinary Education. She has worked as a cook at several New York restaurants, researched and edited cookbooks, and now writes about food and restaurants for the Washingtonian.
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Kate Nerenberg
Kate Nerenberg started as an editorial intern at The Washingtonian in January 2008 and became an assistant editor in September 2008. A native of West Hartford, Connecticut, she spent the first half of her writing life as a sports reporter, and was the editor of the athletics section for the newspaper and student-run magazine while at Middlebury College. A joint Spanish and Art History major, Kate graduated in 2005 and took off on a year-long journey around the world. After tasting everything from fried crickets to lavish Turkish breakfasts, she realized she wanted to devote herself to writing about food, a lifelong passion. She lives with three roommates just east of Logan Circle in a house that's often filled with the smell of sauteed garlic, warm banana bread, or fried bacon and eggs.
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Rina Rapuano
Rina Rapuano's English degree from Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond put her on the path to becoming a managing editor of a weekly business magazine; a freelance copy editor; and assistant managing news editor—and later the lifestyles editor—at a weekly paper in Maryland. But she realized her true calling when her descriptions of meals to friends and colleagues always seemed to end with the same statement: “You're making me hungry.” Frankly, it was making Rina hungry, too. She chucked her day job in 2006 to become a full-time freelance writer focusing mainly on food, and now works as assistant food and wine editor at The Washingtonian.
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