Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.
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By
Erin Zimmer
It’s time for the latest installment of Feed/back, a weekly feature where we ask you, the diner, for a restaurant critique on the street.
A block away from the Columbia Heights Metro on increasingly trendy 14th Street, Logan @ the Heights (3115 14th St., NW; 202-797-7227; theheightsdc.com)—more commonly known as “the Heights”—has been buzzing with neighborhood twentysomethings ever since it opened in June. EatWellDC, the restaurant group responsible for Grillfish, Logan Tavern, and Merkado, has tapped into the area’s need for a comfy neighborhood joint for something other than pupusas. Nothing against the Salvadoran snack, but if residents are in the mood for something different, they can now find maple-roasted pork loin, grilled tuna, and other Modern American dishes nearby.
Here’s how a recent round of diners rated the Heights on a scale of 1 to 10.
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Category Tags: Feedback
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By
Dave McIntyre
This affordable French blend is perfect for warm weather sipping.
As summer winds down, there’s still time to find new, interesting white wines for patio dining. Never a white without a red to follow, never a red without a white before it. Why settle for the same old, same old? Saint André de Figuière “Cuvée Valerie” Côtes de Provence 2006 evokes the south of France with its sunny, rejuvenating acidity and slight, enticingly herbaceous flavor. The blend is unconventional: 60 percent Ugni Blanc, 25 percent Rolle (the French name for Vermentino), and 15 percent Semillon, which gives it some body. Enjoy it by itself, with patio finger food (olives, cheese, chips and dip), or grilled seafood. Imported by the Country Vintner and available for $14 at the Vineyard, 1445 Laughlin Ave., McLean; 703-288-2970.
Category Tags: Wine & Spirits
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By
Ann Limpert
At Sweet Dreams in Annapolis, pastry chef Chris Kujala brings a light touch to homey treats.
Photo by Stacy Zarin-Goldberg.
It’s no surprise that the upbeat, periwinkle-blue storefront of Sweet Dreams Pastry Shop provides desserts to many of Annapolis’s fancier restaurants. It’s owned by former Kinkead’s pastry chef Chris Kujala, who opened the shop two years ago with his wife, Elizabeth. Sure, you can find the carrot-cake roulade that was a mainstay at Kinkead’s, but Kujala turns out simpler goodies, too. There are chocolate-chip-pecan cookies with the right mix of salt and sugar, mildly spiced doughnut holes, and decadently fudgy devil’s-food brownies. More elegant are his macaroons, especially a French version that sandwiches soft chocolate ganache. It tastes like a black-and-white cookie fused with a fancy petit four.
Sweet Dreams Pastry Shop, 1410 Forest Dr., Annapolis; 410-268-5060.
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Category Tags: From the Magazine
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By
Erin Zimmer
Indian? French? Japanese? It's all on the menu at this Georgetown cafe.
Okonomiyaki—a pancake-like round with an array of toppings—makes its debut at Snap. Photograph by Erin Zimmer.
This isn’t the first time Margarita Uricoechea of Georgetown’s Snap has replaced her outdoor metallic sign—and each time she’s out a thousand dollars. Why? Her original business focus—crepes and bubble tea—has expanded to include Indian chaat (Hindi for “snack food”) and just a couple of weeks ago, Japanese okonomiyaki, a crepe-like dish topped with tuna flakes and seaweed. Because her clientele includes diplomats and traveling nonprofit workers and her staff hails from Russia, Pakistan, Japan, and Israel, Uricoechea hears suggestions for ethnic eats all the time. Her favorite ideas? The ones taken from sidewalk vendors around the world.
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Category Tags: Food Trends
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By
Erin Zimmer
It’s time for our latest installment of Feed/back, a weekly feature where we ask you, the diner, for a restaurant critique on the street.
Last week we didn’t camp outside a restaurant per se. We camped inside the well-lit Mazza Gallerie in DC’s Friendship Heights waiting for diners from Rock Creek (5300 Wisconsin Ave., NW; 202-966-7625) to exit down the escalator. The month-old restaurant, which has a sister location in Bethesda, offers low-fat, low-calorie cuisine—nutritional info is front and center on the menu—with no butter, cream, or white sugar, and only grapeseed and olive oils. The goal is to have diners leave full but not painfully so—although for at least one patron, it means leaving still hungry. (Hmmm . . . is that fast-food joint still open across the street?)
Here’s how diners rated the new Rock Creek on a scale of 1 to 10.
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Category Tags: Feedback
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By
Erin Zimmer
Agraria chef Ricky Moore follows the footsteps set by Roberto Donna, Morou Ouattara, and Jose Andres on the path to kitchen stadium.
Agraria chef Ricky Moore gives his best intimidating chef face. Then he dissolved into giggles.
Earlier this month, we saw DC chef Rock Harper rise to victory on Hell’s Kitchen. Now another local chef is ready for the reality-TV spotlight. Ricky Moore, executive chef at Georgetown’s Agraria (3000 K St., NW; 202-298-0003)—a restaurant owned by the North Dakota Farmers Union—will head up to New York City to compete on the culinary-battle show Iron Chef. He’ll be the fourth local chef to hit the kitchen stadium (Roberto Donna of Crystal City’s Bebo Trattoria, Morou Ouattara of Alexandria’s Farrah Olivia, and Jose Andres have done it before); the episode is slated to air sometime this fall. Though he’s not the camera-hogging type, Moore admits he’s “all fired up.”
It was last Monday that the Food Network called Moore at Agraria—he wasn’t even scheduled to be at the restaurant that day. “I was just there for a meeting, but I believe in karma,” he says. “That stuff is real, man.” With one month to prepare for the taping, Moore has already pulled together his team, which includes Agraria sous chef Aaron Scales and pastry chef Todd Miller. Mondays are now “Iron Chef Academy” Mondays—which the three lovingly call ICA—and are devoted to studying old episodes, brainstorming, speed-cooking and mastering communication skills. We chatted with Moore in Agraria’s dining room to find out what advice he’s gotten from Donna and Ouattara and whether he has any preshow jitters.
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Category Tags: Food & Restaurant News
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Woo at the Zoo, the opening of “Genesis Robot” at Synetic Theater, and the Washington DC International Wine & Food Festival.
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Our recommendations for the best in live music over the next seven days.
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Ann Limpert
Though Ann Limpert graduated from Connecticut College with a degree in art history and creative writing, she spent most of her time in New England debating the merits of warm, buttery lobster rolls vs. cold, mayo-y ones. She spent two years covering the internet for Entertainment Weekly magazine (highlights include interviewing the Beastie Boys and dancing to "Livin' la Vida Loca" with Penn Jillette), then left to hone her kitchen skills at the Institute of Culinary Education. She has worked as a cook at several New York restaurants, researched and edited cookbooks, and now writes about food and restaurants for the Washingtonian.
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Kate Nerenberg
Kate Nerenberg started as an editorial intern at The Washingtonian in January 2008 and became an assistant editor in September 2008. A native of West Hartford, Connecticut, she spent the first half of her writing life as a sports reporter, and was the editor of the athletics section for the newspaper and student-run magazine while at Middlebury College. A joint Spanish and Art History major, Kate graduated in 2005 and took off on a year-long journey around the world. After tasting everything from fried crickets to lavish Turkish breakfasts, she realized she wanted to devote herself to writing about food, a lifelong passion. She lives with three roommates just east of Logan Circle in a house that's often filled with the smell of sauteed garlic, warm banana bread, or fried bacon and eggs.
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Rina Rapuano
Rina Rapuano's English degree from Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond put her on the path to becoming a managing editor of a weekly business magazine; a freelance copy editor; and assistant managing news editor—and later the lifestyles editor—at a weekly paper in Maryland. But she realized her true calling when her descriptions of meals to friends and colleagues always seemed to end with the same statement: “You're making me hungry.” Frankly, it was making Rina hungry, too. She chucked her day job in 2006 to become a full-time freelance writer focusing mainly on food, and now works as assistant food and wine editor at The Washingtonian.
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