- Food & Restaurant News

Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.

Table-Hopping: Where the Boldface Names Are Eating

By Kyle Jameson

President Obama takes Michelle to Blue Duck Tavern, Natalie Portman sips white wine at Westend Bistro, and Tommy Lasorda eats birthday cake at Il Mulino.

President Obama romanced first lady Michelle Obama at Blue Duck Tavern in DC’s West End. The couple was celebrating their 17th wedding anniversary . . .

. . . Actress Natalie Portman invaded Westend Bistro at the downtown Ritz-Carlton in DC with a gang of more than 20 people. She was later spotted breakfasting at Commissary near Logan Circle.

. . . Who’s the man eating a cheeseburger and sipping Chardonnay at Trio in DC’s Dupont Circle? Shaft (a.k.a. Richard Roundtree)! You’re damn right . . .

. . . Los Angeles Dodgers legend Tommy Lasorda celebrated his 82nd birthday at the upscale Italian chain Il Mulino in downtown DC. Joining the party were Major League Baseball commissioner Bud Selig, Dodgers manager Joe Torre, and Nationals owner Mark Lerner . . .

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The Wrap-Up: The Week in Food

By Ann Limpert

Every Friday, we dish on what foodie news happened that week. This week? Top Chef is down a DC-er, crepes take over town, the Black Rooster is saved, and more.

Top Chef is down one Washingtonian. In a surprise twist, perennial bottom-three-er Robin escaped elimination on this week’s episode and Zaytinya chef Mike Isabella was asked to pack his knives and go. His offense? A poorly executed (and oddly protein-free) leek dish for vegetarian actress Natalie Portman. On a Washingtonpost.com chat yesterday, Isabella made clear he’s hasn’t gained any affection for Robin (a.k.a. Grandma). “That woman could not cook her way out of a paper bag,” noted a commenter. “That’s totally true,” replied Isabella. “She can’t cook.” He went on to tell E! Online that though they’ve talked since the show, “she’s crazy and she’s annoying.”

Jack Evans saves the day! After it looked like the 40-year-old downtown DC dive the Black Rooster was headed for extinction, it now seems it’ll stay open after all. Owner Jody Taylor credits the DC Council member with the rescue. What happened? “I don’t really know, to be honest with you,” Taylor tells the Washington City Paper. “Once I talked to the landlord, he was extremely gracious. Everybody came to terms. It’s good all around.”

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The Wrap-Up: The Week in Food

By Kate Nerenberg

Every Friday we fill you in on what's been happening in the local restaurant world.

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The Wrap-Up: The Week in Food

By Ann Limpert

Washington Post restaurant critic Tom Sietsema’s tenth annual dining guide is online—for real this time. Close watchers got a glimpse of the guide when it was inadvertently posted on the Post’s Web site at least four days early. “Since I never saw what went live, I’m not sure if that was my final FINAL list,” Sietsema told the Washington City Paper’s Tim Carman. Indeed, newcomer Eventide wound up with two and a half stars, not the early version’s three. The biggest surprise: Rasika, the Penn Quarter Indian hot spot, garnered four stars, putting it in the same ranks as CityZen, Komi, the Inn at Little Washington, and the tasting room at Restaurant Eve. Citronelle, which was downgraded to three and a half stars last year, was given the same rating this year.

Chef Sam Adkins is leaving Jackie’s after more than five years at the funky Silver Spring restaurant. And not by choice, he tells Tom Sietsema. Owner Jackie Greenbaum says that although Adkins is one of her “dearest” friends, “I think we reached the limitations of expression with one another.” No word yet on where Adkins will turn up next.

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The Wrap-Up: The Week in Food

By Kate Nerenberg

• The food-magazine world lost its queen on Monday, when Condé Nast announced it was closing Gourmet, which has been in print since 1940. For weeks, we’d heard rumors that the media giant was going to shut down a number of its titles, but the news about Gourmet was a shock to many. Its October issue was dedicated to restaurants, and editors asked Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema where he’d spend $1,000. Among his picks were Jaleo, Et Voila!, and Obelisk. Gourmet will put out its final issue next month.

• Yesterday, 82-year-old Ben Ali, best known as the mastermind behind the iconic U Street, Northwest, landmark Ben’s Chili Bowl, passed away yesterday. The restaurant, famous for its chili dogs and cheese fries, opened in 1958. Ali’s sons, Kamal and Nizam, run the DC landmark.

• More wine on the way: Prince of Petworth reports that Justin Abad and John Manolatos, two of the three Cashion’s Eat Place owners, found a spot for a wine-and-gourmet-foods shop in DC’s Adams Morgan and hope to be open before the holidays. Then a Metrocurean reader wrote in about Twisted Vines Bottleshop & Bistro, a wine store and small-plates restaurant to open by November in Arlington.


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An Early Look at Sou’Wester (With Menus)

By Eliot Stein

Get the flash player here: http://www.adobe.com/flashplayer

Photos by Chris Leaman

DC’s posh Mandarin Oriental hotel might be an unlikely place to show off the sleepy, Southern side of Washington, but chef Eric Ziebold is seeking to do just that. His casual new restaurant, Sou’Wester, offers a Gone With the Wind vibe with gone-to-the-Eastern-Shore regional comfort food.

Occupying the former Café MoZU space, the restaurant invokes a distinctly different sense of time and place than Ziebold’s sleek destination dining room, CityZen. Diners catch their first whiff of Sou’Wester’s bucolic-chic seasoning in the lobby “sun porch,” where “country time” happy hour—with cocktails between $7 and $10—is served in wooden rocking chairs daily from 3 to 5. Inside, ceiling lamps covered in wicker resemble crab pots, sunflowers float in glass vases, and a spacious, breezy dining room looks out on houseboats bobbing on the Southwest waterfront.

“Sou’Wester is a moment back in time,” says Ziebold. “When creating it, we thought, ‘What is it that we’d like to eat in DC sitting on the waterfront? What represents the city?’ ”

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The Wrap-Up: The Week in Food

By Ann Limpert

Every Friday we fill you in on what's been happening in the local restaurant world.

• Chef Scott Conant won’t be opening a branch of his much-praised New York restaurant Scarpetta here after all. Conant tells the Washington Post’s Tom Sietsema it came down to timing—he’s got a baby on the way and another Scarpetta in Miami to focus on. Bummer. Let the rumor mill ramp up again.

• Does Barton Seaver deserve being anointed chef of the year by Esquire magazine? And could his restaurant Blue Ridge really be one of the best in the country? That’s what food writer John Mariani is said to proclaim in the November issue. It’s an eyebrow raiser for sure, because Blue Ridge has been knocked quite a bit by local critics. (Tom Sietsema gave it 1½ stars; you can read our take here.) But Mariani tells the Washington Post’s Jane Black that his meal was apparently much different than the ones other critics cited. (It may have helped that Seaver knew he and his guests were there.) “I liked very much what I ate. It seemed a reflection of what he was doing,” he tells Black. “There was a lot of emphasis on vegetables but not on being a vegetarian. The chicken and pork was cooked very well. That southern style of cooking is not easy to find, even in your neck of the woods. They were of supremely good ingredients.”

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Ann Limpert

Though Ann Limpert graduated from Connecticut College with a degree in art history and creative writing, she spent most of her time in New England debating the merits of warm, buttery lobster rolls vs. cold, mayo-y ones. She spent two years covering the internet for Entertainment Weekly magazine (highlights include interviewing the Beastie Boys and dancing to "Livin' la Vida Loca" with Penn Jillette), then left to hone her kitchen skills at the Institute of Culinary Education. She has worked as a cook at several New York restaurants, researched and edited cookbooks, and now writes about food and restaurants for the Washingtonian. more

Kate Nerenberg

Kate Nerenberg started as an editorial intern at The Washingtonian in January 2008 and became an assistant editor in September 2008. A native of West Hartford, Connecticut, she spent the first half of her writing life as a sports reporter, and was the editor of the athletics section for the newspaper and student-run magazine while at Middlebury College. A joint Spanish and Art History major, Kate graduated in 2005 and took off on a year-long journey around the world. After tasting everything from fried crickets to lavish Turkish breakfasts, she realized she wanted to devote herself to writing about food, a lifelong passion. She lives with three roommates just east of Logan Circle in a house that's often filled with the smell of sauteed garlic, warm banana bread, or fried bacon and eggs. more

Rina Rapuano

Rina Rapuano's English degree from Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond put her on the path to becoming a managing editor of a weekly business magazine; a freelance copy editor; and assistant managing news editor—and later the lifestyles editor—at a weekly paper in Maryland. But she realized her true calling when her descriptions of meals to friends and colleagues always seemed to end with the same statement: “You're making me hungry.” Frankly, it was making Rina hungry, too. She chucked her day job in 2006 to become a full-time freelance writer focusing mainly on food, and now works as assistant food and wine editor at The Washingtonian. more