Big news for Peter Chang devotees: The master of Szechuan cuisine plans to open a Rockville restaurant next year. A release from Federal Realty Investment Trust, which is behind the 3,100-square-foot space to be occupied by Chang in Rockville Town Square, says the eatery “will specialize in healthy and traditional Chinese cuisine and will be unique in concept from his other locations.”
The elusive toque has gained a cultlike following among his five Virginia restaurants, with eager diners ready to eat wherever he’s cooking next; the New York Times recently profiled his movements. The closest eatery for Washingtonians thus far has been Peter Chang’s China Cafe in Fredericksburg, with other locations in Richmond, Williamsburg, and Charlottesville. The Rockville eatery will mark the first Chang venture in our area, and will be open for lunch and dinner.
Stay tuned for more details as they become available.
Michael Schlow may be based in Boston, but the James Beard Award-winning chef has Washington ties that go beyond his newly opened South American-influenced restaurant, Tico. Schlow’s father was from DC, one of his most memorable meals was at Jean-Louis at the Watergate, and he’s looking to open another local spot (we’re keeping our fingers crossed for Italian, one of his areas of expertise). We caught up with the affable father of two, who talked about his love of Almond Joy, his mustard collection, and his trusty hangover cure.
Favorite fine-dining experience: “One was Jean-Louis at the Watergate. Three things stuck out: the foie gras course, who I was eating with (my sister and my best friend), and that it was the night Marion Barry got arrested.”
Snack: “Saint Agur cheese. In the dead of summer, a really ripe tomato with salt and pepper, a slice of Saint Agur, and some warm bread.”
Guilty pleasure: “I’ve been known to make dinner out of a king-size Almond Joy bar.”
Beer: “I don’t drink a ton of beer, but I’m loving DC Brau and Atlas Brew Works right now. In the summer, there are few things more refreshing than a Corona with lime, ice-cold.”
Cocktail: “I love a perfect Negroni. It’s sophisticated, interesting, and complex. And really good silver tequila blanco on the rocks with a splash of fresh grapefruit juice.”
Tequila: For super-high-end, Casa Dragones and Clase Azul are two of my favorites. If I’m just making a cocktail, Milagro Silver.”
Hangover cure: “I’m a sucker for cold Chinese food, a Coke, and then going back to bed. I don’t drink soda, but with a hangover I’ll have a Coke.”
Always in my fridge: “A serious mustard collection—it would be the envy of mustard lovers around the world. Almond milk. And there’s always pancetta, eggs, and cheese so I can make carbonara.”
Jarred tomato sauce: “The only jarred sauce I’ll eat is Mario Batali’s. It’s delicious. I hate him for it, but it’s delicious.”
Song to get amped to: “The first day at Tico, I cranked the music—it can go very loud—and played ‘Enter Sandman’ by Metallica.”
When I’m not in a chef’s coat . . . “I like nice clothes, since I wear a uniform all day. I like a Zegna suit, Theory shirts. I’ve been buying shoes from Cole Haan and its collaboration with Nike.”
VIP to cook for: “There seems to be a great connection between the music world and food world. For my birthday, Mike Mills from R.E.M. came down here. Billy Joel is playing at Fenway Park and we’re going to do a dinner together after. We’ve been friends for years.”
On my nightstand: “Elizabeth David’s An Omelette and a Glass of Wine.”
If I could have four people, living or dead, over for dinner . . . “Thomas Edison—he was a badass. Walter Cronkite. And Julia Child. I don’t want to throw Bono in there because he’ll hog the conversation. Let’s add the Edge from U2. He’s quieter but a beautiful man.”
What I’d make: “Everyone would get a stiff drink to start. I went to Julia Child’s house and she literally just gave us Scotch and Goldfish crackers. I’d make an Italian dinner—antipasti, salumi, a piece of leaky burrata. Rigatoni with broccoli rabe and sausage. A Florentine steak with lemon and grilled vegetables. For dessert, chocolate-chip cookies and Almond Joys.”
Herb: “Fresh thyme—it’s the most versatile.”
This article appears in the August 2014 issue of Washingtonian.
The talented New York chef David Chang called Tuesday to fill me in on the details of the new Momofuku, set to open at CityCenterDC in the spring or summer of 2015.
At least, I think that’s why he called.
The self-laceratingly honest, F-bomb-spraying chef didn’t go too deep into specifics, mostly because he said he hasn’t really figured out what sort of restaurant he wants to fill the space. In the meantime, however, he bared his angsty soul in a 30-minute conversation that spanned a range of topics.
Chang, who grew up in Northern Virginia, sounded almost giddy at times, bubbling over with enthusiasm and vowing to make his homecoming a memorable one. “I haven’t been this excited,” he told me, “in a long, long time.”
At 4,500 square feet, it will be the largest of any of his restaurants outside of Toronto. He’ll in the same complex as fellow NYC chef Daniel Boulud.
“It’s an extraordinarily amazing space, but you wouldn’t traditionally associate it with Momofuku.”
He considered spaces that were smaller and full of character, but: “I don’t really want that. It’s too snobbish in a way.”
And yet: “I don’t really want to serve burgers, either.”
“It’s going to be a Momofuku restaurant but . . . where I want to take it is to make it a little bit more—not just accessible. It’s going to be exactly what we do and nothing like what we do at the same time.”
“Absolutely not. But yes, in some ways, too.”
No ambiguity there.
“To me the super-interesting right now is straight down the middle. Like, super-casual dining. … I don’t want to make food for foodies. And I know that’s really inflammatory if read the wrong way.”
How will it differ from other Momofukus?
“I don’t want this to be just another outlet of Momofuku. We’ve never opened another outlet. This one’s going to be different from everything else. Will it be wildly different? I don’t know. We just want to serve great food. And that takes time.”
“We want to be good neighbors. We want to enhance the town. I want to help DC. I still read the Washington Post every day. All my friends and family are there. I root for all the teams there. I was a hair away from opening up in DC ten years ago. I opened in New York because I had more of a support network there. I just don’t want to let people down. You know? I just don’t want to let people down.”
On the other hand: “We’re going to make mistakes.”
“There’s gonna be stuff that we’ve never done before, or that we’ve done, but not done a lot of.”
And pork buns?
“And pork buns.”
Any chance we’ll see a culinary homage to Wes Unseld? (Chang’s Twitter feed used to have a strapping pic of the Hall of Fame center who manned the pivot for the ’78 Washington Bullets.)
“I wish, I wish.”
Meantime, for all those who are busy stoking the fires of the Kevin Durant to DC movement—#KD2DC—are you officially down for the cause?
“Oh, yeah. Whatever I need to do. ’Cause we’re so close.”
Since we’re already off the rails, how about talking a bit about the Redskins and Daniel Snyder? (Chang went on record almost two years ago with his interest in buying the Redskins.)
“The name thing is hard for me because, yes, it’s terrible. I understand why it needs to be done. But I’m divided. I have a weird allegiance to the Redskins I grew up with, the Joe Gibbs Redskins. And at the same time I have an extreme dislike of Dan Snyder. That’s the only reason I would want to accumulate a stupid amount of money, is to buy the Skins. Look, DC deserves a team that like the Spurs or Patriots. The only way we can do that is if everyone boycotts the Redskins until we get a new owner. My suggestion is that all the Redskins fans root for the Raiders, until the Lerner family comes in and buys the team. Or Leonsis.”
Current Culinary Enthusiasms
“I’m fucking infatuated with fucking Salvadoran cuisine. Not that I’m saying I’m trying to tap into it.”
“Spinach artichoke dip. Chicken fingers.”
Changian Angst, part I
“It feels strange to be coming in and not be the underdog. I want to be the underdog.”
Changian Angst, part II
“We’re gonna take a lot of bad falls. I know it.”
How do you know?
“We don’t open restaurants that work right away. They’ve all been unique restaurants. All the recipes are different. Momofuku Toronto, there’s nothing that’s the same. The pork buns are the same but that’s it. . . .”
Eventually, they do work. And you have tons of fans to prove it.
“You know, at the end of the day, I think people are gonna be like: ‘Fuck this place.’ I’d love to make everyone happy, but you know . . .”
A Final Message, in Advance of Opening
“Don’t judge us now, and don’t judge us a year from now. Judge us in five years, or ten.”
Find Todd Kliman on Twitter at @toddkliman.
UPDATE (1:20 PM): A Momofuku representative says that an outpost of Momofuku Milk Bar, the dessert branch of the empire headed by James Beard Award-winning chef/Northern Virginia native Christina Tosi, will open inside the new restaurant. The sweets shop has a cult-like following for its crack pie, compost cookies, creative cakes, and more.
Stefan Trummer • Trummer’s on Main
Destinations: Vienna and Budapest.
“I’m opening a coffee and wine bar in Gainesville at the end of the year. Austrian coffeehouses are a whole different experience. You get a nice cup of coffee, a glass of water, Champagne, tiny sandwiches. Some have cherry tomatoes, baby corn, mayonnaise—they’re all different. But it’s the atmosphere: the service, the silver trays, the pastries and newspaper in a beautiful environment. That’s why I’m going to Budapest. One of my dreams has been to do a bistro here—not French but Eastern European. I thought I’d see it myself first. I’m always looking for inspiration.”
Matt Adler • Osteria Morini
Destination: New Orleans.
“My wife and I have been to New Orleans, but it’s been about ten years, so we’re interested in seeing how the city has changed post-Katrina. We’re focused so much on Italian at Morini, so in terms of actual flavors, I’m not sure it’s going to relate. But I’m interested in what they’re using—Gulf oysters have been doing very well the last couple of years, and there may be some things I’d be able to apply with the local stuff.”
Kaz Okochi • Kaz Sushi Bistro
Destinations: Japan and Korea.
“I already took a vacation in May, more a family trip than business, though I ate as much as I could. In Japan I had frozen crème brûlée, something I’d never had. It kind of makes sense—it’s made of custard that’s then steamed or baked, but it’s pretty much the same as how you make ice cream. We’d been serving Kahlúa-flavored crème brûlée—I started simply putting it in the freezer. Before we serve it, we blowtorch the sugar, which makes the custard halfway melt. Now we have a frozen Kahlúa crème brûlée.”
Spike Mendelsohn • Good Stuff Eatery; We, the Pizza; Béarnaise
Destinations: Costa Rica and Hawaii.
“In Costa Rica, the food is simple and authentic—a lot of great fruits, and ceviche. It’s just so pure, organic, and the mangoes are out of this world. There’s a great sushi place in Malpaís. It has no name—a little hut near Florblanca resort. In Hawaii, I’m going to Kona with Marcel Vigneron for the Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival and back to Oahu for the North Shore Food Summit. There’s a chef over there, Chris Kulis, who I used to work with, for Thomas Keller at Bouchon. Chris has a restaurant called Capische in Wailea and just opened a new spot called the Market, where he bakes his own bread. Oh, my God—he does an amazing veal chop. He sous-vides it for hours, then bastes and roasts it. He’s one of the best chefs I know.”
Ashok Bajaj • The Bombay Club and seven others
Destinations: Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.
“The Israelis have a lively food scene, so who knows what I’ll learn and come back with? I’m taking somebody with me who’s been there many times, so we’ll explore what’s happening. Everybody talks about the markets being very avant-garde, so I’m going to check them out. And there are some modern Israeli restaurants that have opened up. I plan on learning more about Mediterranean cuisine and a lot of the other influences.”
Mike Friedman • The Red Hen
Destination: Rehoboth Beach.
“When I was a kid, we’d go down to the Jersey shore and do a lot of grill-outs. For the last four years, my wife and I have vacationed in Rehoboth—it’s my getaway spot now. A lot of stuff, especially when we were doing the Red Hen’s opening menu, was inspired by those tastes of summer. I had a dream to do steamers, which are soft-shell clams. My grandmother would pour them in a big bowl, and all the juice would be at the bottom with this braised celery. Ah, dude, they’re absolutely delicious. I’ve been able to source them over the winter, to make sure a couple companies have them held for me. Most of them end up going to Jersey, but I’m going to get my hands on some.”
This article appears in the August 2014 issue of Washingtonian.
For all its benefits, Restaurant Week can be a fraught time for all involved. Customers, rightly, want a good dining experience and a good deal. Restaurants, rightly, want to fill seats during an otherwise slow month—the original purpose behind the promotion—and satisfy guests without losing money. Sometimes these interests conflict, and parties on both sides opt out. One such example is chef Dean Gold, co-owner of Dino’s Grotto in Shaw.
“As a longtime participant in it, I just don’t feel like it’s a great deal,” says Gold, who partook in the official Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington (RAMW) Restaurant Weeks for seven years at the original Dino in Cleveland Park.
Gold isn’t ignoring the summer promo entirely, offering an “anti-Restaurant Week” menu that he feels is fair to his customers: ten “tastes of Dino” for $35. Here, he speaks with us about his plans, thoughts on Restaurant Week, and how to find a good meal.
How have you seen Restaurant Week change?
At one point, it was a good thing. I really feel that it went away from restaurants like mine when it went to $35. Basically, the way people eat at my restaurant, $37 is what it takes to have three courses, so you’re saving two bucks. It’s just not that good of a deal.
Every purveyor puts out specials for Restaurant Week. You look at what they’re offering. People who specialize in wild salmon and are pushing it one week want to sell you the lousiest farm-raised salmon for Restaurant Week. Meat companies are putting deals on lesser cuts of conventional beef, when their point of pride is all-natural beef. During Restaurant Week they’re pushing conventional and really poor-quality cuts. If you’re doing Restaurant Week, you need to be able to put together a menu. Restaurants need the help.
When did you begin to see the change?
Probably about two years ago. We track our sales, and the bulk of Restaurant Week had just fallen off dramatically. We try and cobble together something that’s a really good deal for people, and if you don’t get a big bump, it’s not a good thing.
They [RAMW] have partnered with OpenTable, and if you’re not on OpenTable, it’s hard to get a bump from Restaurant Week. It cost us $2,000 a month [for OT]. Then it’s another $1,000 to be part of Restaurant Week, because we had to pay $500 to the Association and then another $500 to be part of the promotion [dues are based on the annual gross sales of the restaurant]. I finally got fed up with it and just said, hey, let’s be honest. It’s not a good deal.
Why do you think it’s less of a good deal now?
More and more people are doing it. You have a small group of people who do it right, with a full menu and so on. One comment today on a chat was if the restaurant doesn’t offer three choices, one of them being vegetarian, the restaurant isn’t doing right by Restaurant Week. I was like, “Whoa, three choices?” I don’t go to a restaurant for three choices. I might go for my favorite dish, but that’s not the way I dine in a restaurant.
It’s also part of the increase in the deal mentality—you have the LivingSocial, Groupon phenomenon. You’re bringing in people who like the culture of the deal sites, who aren’t going to pay full price. A lot of people are going to restaurants they wouldn’t go to because it’s Restaurant Week, which is part of the idea, but they’re less in tune with what those restaurants are doing.
Is there any way to tell at the outset if you’re going to have a good Restaurant Week experience in a restaurant?
You have to look at the menu. Look at their regular menu, and then look at what they’re offering you, and see if they match up. If the menu is very different, then you’re looking at a place that’s faking you out.
Did it used to be that more high-end restaurants participated, so diners felt they were really getting value?
More high-end restaurants are participating today than they used to. For the most part, it’s absolutely not what they’re doing on an everyday basis. It’s not what their food is about. There are restaurants that normally have very particular ingredients and offer really outstanding quality products, and then you come into Restaurant Week and it’s all very conventional.
If you had to go to a place for Restaurant Week, where would you choose?
Bastille; I think it’s really solid cooking. Very few restaurants are posting menus on the RAMW site, so it’s tough. Daikaya has an interesting approach, with a lot of different small plates. That, to me, because of the variety, would be a place I’d go.
One of the biggest summer restaurant openings is upon us with the debut of Gypsy Soul, which serves its first dinner on Wednesday night. The Mosaic District eatery is the second for chef RJ Cooper, who also owns Rogue 24 in Shaw. Here’s what to expect at the travel-inspired spot.
The vibe: Modern-rustic, much like the cuisine. The 135-seat space mixes wood floors and tables with exposed pipes and cast metals. An open “show kitchen,” where you can watch Cooper and his chefs at work, is the focal point of the room.
The crowd-pleasing food: A section devoted to macaroni and cheeses, anyone? Many of the robust, Southern-inspired dishes hark back to Cooper’s days at Vidalia, where he earned a James Beard Award for Best Chef Mid-Atlantic. You’ll find bread baskets filled with buttery rolls and sage biscuits, jumbo lump crabcakes with homey potato salad, and short ribs atop Carolina-rice risotto. A few items also nod to Cooper’s Detroit upbringing, such as a cheffy version of a Greek diner salad (think barrel-aged feta and house-pickled beets instead of canned).
The more adventurous food: “Beef marrow/sea urchins/antler mustard/ink toast.” Menu descriptions like this one look like they’re off Rogue’s modernist menu, though you won’t find tweezers in the Gypsy kitchen. The actual dish is more rustic than it sounds (translation: roasted bone marrow topped with uni and mustard greens). Lovers of other oddities can find Asian-style lettuce wraps with crispy pig ears and fermented cucumbers, chicken-skin cracklings, and a stuffed pork head.
The drinks: Inspired by travel. Cocktail expert Bryan Tetorakis (aka the “Cheftender”) has carved his own niche at Rogue 24, running a separate drinks tasting menu. Here you’ll find similarly creative sips, such as the Gnome, with vodka, Aperol, black pepper, and liquid arugula. The wine and beer list reads majority local and American. House-made sodas and fresh-brewed peach tea are on tap for the non-drinking crowd, along with a selection of La Colombe coffees.
The conversation piece: Biker-inspired bar stools. The comfy leather perches were modeled after Cooper’s own motorcycle, named Pumpkin for its orange coloring. Another fun fact: His license plate reads “BRAISE.”
On the horizon (short-term): Lunch and brunch. Saturday and Sunday brunch are expected to start the weekend after Labor Day, with afternoon service to follow. Entrée salads and more sandwiches are planned for lunch—we’re looking forward to trying that “redneck cheesesteak”—while brunch will bring Bloody Marys galore and over-the-top dishes such as duck confit hash with duck eggs and foie gras béarnaise, and fried chicken and waffles.
On the horizon (long-term): Big dishes and an ever bigger rooftop. Once the kitchen hits its stride, you’ll find a number of platters for two in each section of the menu, such as whole roast fish, racks of ribs, and slate-roasted 30-ounce rib eye. As for outdoor dining, the restaurant’s 80-seat rooftop is scheduled to debut in spring 2015.
Gypsy Soul. 8296 Glass Alley, Fairfax; 703-992-0933. Reservations accepted. Open (currently) for dinner, Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 10, Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11:30, Sunday 5 to 9. Lunch and brunch to follow.
Find Anna Spiegel on Twitter at @annaspiegs.
Big news from chef RJ Cooper: Rogue 24 will soon offer an à-la-carte menu.
“Shaw has changed into this tremendously young, urban community who don’t want to spend two or three hours dining,” Cooper says. “We’re still modernist, still playful, but we have to give the community what they want.”
When the avant garde eatery opened in 2011, only two options were available: either a 16- or 24-course tasting menu. Cooper and his team have diversified the selection since, currently offering a ten-course “jaunt,” and a smaller cocktail tasting at the Spirits Bar. Now diners will be able to order more traditionally portioned, individual dishes in the main dining room from what he’s calling a “back to the basics” menu, as well as the 24-course “progression” tasting for $125. Cooper says the à la carte offerings will begin after Rogue’s version of the RAMW’s summer restaurant week (a.k.a. Restaurant Week Gone Rogue) in mid-to-late August.
It’s a big month for Cooper, as his second restaurant, Gypsy Soul, debuts in the Mosaic District on Wednesday. Stay tuned for more details on Rogue’s new menu, as well as a preview of the Virginia project.
Find Anna Spiegel on Twitter at @annaspiegs.
The home of the onion soup burger has a new chef. Kyoo Eom, a five-year veteran of 2941, is taking the helm at Poste. The South Korean-born chef also cooked in New York City under Daniel Boulud and Andrew Carmellini at two of Boulud's restaurants.
Though you won't see any big menu changes as of now, Eom—who took over from chef Dennis Marron—plans to roll out a few preview dishes during summer Restaurant Week. The fall could bring menu items such as asparagus-wrapped halibut with pommes rösti and côte de boeuf for two.
Perhaps Michelle Obama will drop by for another meal under the new toque.
Find Anna Spiegel on Twitter at @annaspiegs.
The swanky restaurant inside the New York Palace Hotel debuted in October, reminiscent of both Central and Cintronelle with a more casual bistro for lobster burgers and a dinner-only gallery serving elaborate tasting menus. Despite a star-studded opening party attended by Daniel Boulud and Martha Stewart, the initial round of reviews from the likes of New York magazine and New York Times ranged from cool to downright scathing. Richard began scaling back by closing the Gallery in May, followed by the most recent departure from lunch and dinner in the bistro. Pomme Palais, his counter-order eatery in the hotel, remains open as usual.
“Michel Richard and the New York Palace hotel team will continue their collaboration as they re-envision the restaurant’s concept and next steps,” says the hotel’s general manager, David Chase, in a statement to Washingtonian.
It remains unclear whether this means a new Richard concept for the Palace, a potential focus on opening another restaurant in Washington, or neither. Richard told us at Villard’s opening party that he plans to open “a nice place in DC,” but as we saw in the span of nine short months, everything can change.
DC’s king of Spanish cuisine is embarking on yet another food adventure: beer.
Last week, José Andrés announced via Twitter his partnership with Oregon-based Deschutes Brewery to release a line of beer called “Zarabanda,” referring to a Spanish dance.
The term loosely means fun, enjoyment, and party. Brewed with spices, the light beer is meant to remind drinkers of Spain’s relaxed lifestyle.
Zarabanda was born out of a collaboration between Andrés and Gary Fish, founder and CEO of Deschutes. The pair’s 15-year friendship bloomed after Andrés began cooking at the brewery’s charity events. They conceived the idea for a new beer at one such fundraiser back in 2010.
“It was fun for all of us to work on this beer and bring two of our passions together: beer and food,” says Fish. “We crafted this spiced saison to accompany great cuisine.”
The duo wanted to feature flavors that Andrés loves and uses in his cooking, such as lemon verbena, pink peppercorns, sumac, and dried lime. The body features a mixture of Vienna and spelt malts, tastes minimally hoppy, and clocks in at 6.1 percent ABV (Alcohol By Volume); your average Bud is only five percent by comparison.
Unfortunately, the 22-ounce bottles won’t be sitting alongside José Andrés Foods potato chips and olive oils at Whole Foods quite yet.
Marie Melsheimer, spokesperson for Deschutes, says the beer won’t be available until the fall, and then only at locations within Deschutes’ distribution zone, which doesn’t include much of the East Coast. The brewery is exploring online availability, and perhaps Andrés might pour Zarabanda drafts in his restaurants. Stay tuned for details closer to the release.