Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.
Category: Cheftestants
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By
Jessica Voelker
In town for the Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show, the Food Network's petite princess of pasta finds a lot to love chez Mike Isabella.
Giada De Laurentiis' favorite part of her meal at Graffiato? The pasta course.
“I think it's pretty gutsy for someone to try and feed me pasta,” said Giada De Laurentiis, her voice crackling slightly thanks to a sinus infection.
The Food Network's queen of Italian cuisine had just left the stage at the Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show. Held this past weekend at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center, it is the sort of event where vendors hand out samples of pepper jack cheese and jam and tiny sausages to suburban couples getting a jump on their Christmas shopping. Behind a labyrinth of black curtains, attendees watched De Laurentiis and fellow Food Network personalities Guy Fieri (bleached hair, bowling shirts) and Paula Deen (butter) demoing dishes from a large, brightly lit stage.
So who would have the gall to serve gnocchi to the Everyday Italian lady? That would be Mike Isabella, Top Chef alum and owner of the recently opened Graffiato in Chinatown, where De Laurentiis and her agent spent Saturday night gorging themselves on the potato-filled pasta, along with chestnut-filled mezzalunas; handmade spaghetti with cherry tomato, garlic, and basil sauce; crispy goat; chicken with cranberry sauce; and pumpkin-filled zeppole (doughnutlike pastries).
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Category Tags: Food & Restaurant News, Cheftestants, Chefs to Watch
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By
Ann Mah
We talk to the latest chef who was sent packing.
This week’s Top Chef: All Stars was a tale of two pop-up restaurants, as the chefs divided into teams and opened their own eateries. One team's Mediterranean-style spot, Etch, was plagued with problems from the very start, with poor communication and bickering leading to disastrous food.
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Category Tags: Interviews, Top Chef, Cheftestants
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By
Ann Mah
Spike Mendelsohn is the proud owner of two popular Capitol Hill eateries, but he never lost his hunger to take home the title of Top Chef. Expectations were high when joined this season’s All Star cast, battling it out against other DC-area favorites such as Carla Hall and Mike Isabella. Alas, when the owner of Good Stuff Eatery and We, the Pizza paired a tangy tomato-tamarind soup with bland shrimp, the judges were nonplussed, asking Mendelsohn to pack his knives and go. We chatted with him about strategy, Angelo’s sabotage, and who he sees as the top competitors.
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Category Tags: Top Chef, Cheftestants
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By
Ann Mah
This week’s Top Chef featured a Quickfire of lobbyist-friendly toothpick snacks, followed by an elimination challenge that sent the contestants to cook a “power lunch” at the Palm, using the restaurant’s proteins. Saddled with swordfish, Miami chef Andrea Curto-Randazzo dished it up pan-seared with a vanilla/mustard beurre blanc. Alas, the judges found her dish too “sweet” and “totally unfocused” and sent her home. She chatted with us about the case of the missing pea puree, her rivalry with fellow Miami chef Michelle Bernstein, and why she wouldn't do the show again.
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Category Tags: Top Chef, Cheftestants
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By
Ann Mah
Local ingredients were the star on this week’s episode of Top Chef. For the Quickfire challenge, the contestants confronted squirming blue crabs that seemed ready to take over the whole kitchen. Later, they decamped to Virginia’s Ayrshire Farms to create a family-style meal, working together as a single team. Battling frigid temperatures, limited produce, and a makeshift outdoor kitchen—not to mention 12 oversized egos— the chefs cooked a lunch of (mostly) farm-grown ingredients. Three dishes sank to the bottom: Amanda’s shockingly rustic faux-minestrone, Stephen’s “over-thought and over-dressed” salad, served—Horrors! —in a bowl, and Timothy’s forgettable roasted turnips, potatoes, and asparagus. In the end, the judges sent Timothy packing. We talked with the DC/Baltimore-area chef about home-turf advantages, Angelo’s master plan, and his favorite local restaurants.
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Category Tags: Interviews, Top Chef, Cheftestants
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By
Ann Mah
After the judges sent this caterer home, she talked to us about the curse of making dessert, Amanda's attitude, and what her biggest weakness was.
Maybe Jacqueline was just too damn nice for the cut-throat culture of Top Chef. Photograph courtesy of Bravo TV.
Wednesday night’s episode of Top Chef saw a sandwich-making Quickfire that forced the chefs to work tied together in pairs (hilarious for the viewer, perhaps not so amusing for the cheftestants), followed by an elimination challenge that grouped them into teams of four to create a healthy, budget-friendly school lunch. With her teammate Amanda insistent on dishing up the unlikely kid’s meal of braised chicken thighs in sherry jus, Jacqueline Lombard was left with meager fixings to prepare her banana pudding. Alas, two pounds of sugar later, judge Tom Colicchio deemed Jacqueline’s dessert “grainy, loaded with sugar, and not very nutritious” and sent the Brooklyn chef home. We caught up with her today to discuss the combative atmosphere at judges’ table, grocery shopping for 50 on a tight budget, and why she didn’t know that desserts on Top Chef are usually the kiss of death. >>For a recap of episode 2, click here.
Was Amanda really as selfish a teammate as she appeared to be? “Amanda took the competition very seriously. She had a take-no-prisoners attitude, and she was working for herself and no one else, versus having us come together as a team. [At judges’ table] I defended the team, but my teammates only defended themselves.”
Do you regret making a dessert? “I didn’t want to be the one to do dessert, but I was the only member of the team with pastry experience, which everyone kept bringing up. I would’ve loved to do the chicken! But [dessert] was the hand I was dealt.” Do you feel your team had the worst plate of food? “My team felt very strongly that, based on the critiques, our dishes were much less offensive. Angelo’s team was really the losing team. They had a total lack of nutritional quality. They served carbohydrates and sugar in all four of their dishes, which was way worse than Amanda’s boozy chicken. We served 19 ounces of health with one ounce of sugar.”
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Category Tags: Top Chef, Cheftestants
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By
Ann Mah
The Michigan chef was the first to pack his knives and go. We spoke to him about 17 cooks in one kitchen, other (possibly cocky) contestants, and those crazy long dreads.
He says he's the most talented chef of the lot, but he was sent packing first. Photograph courtesy of Bravo TV.
Everyone’s favorite reality cooking show is back, and it has a new star: our fair city. Season seven of Top Chef premiered this week with beauty shots of the cherry blossoms, the Lincoln Memorial, and the Capitol—not to mention a new judge, Eric Ripert of DC’s Westend Bistro. And of course, there was a whole lot of drama. After enduring a mise en place Quickfire that featured bloody potatoes and a $20,000 cash prize, the cheftestants prepared cocktail fare that was supposed to reflect their roots and personalities. Alas, dreadlocked Michigan chef John Somerville disappointed the judges with an overly sweet maple-mousse napoleon that was long on the packaged puff pastry and short on the maple flavor. We spoke to him about how it feels to be the first to leave, the steamy close quarters of the Top Chef kitchen, and which contestant most resembles belligerent Lakers star Ron Artest. >>For a recap of episode 1, click here. Were you surprised to be the first to go? “Absolutely. [Stephen] pounded the living crap out of rib-eye steak and then fried it. And I thought [Jacqueline] was going to have to throw those livers away. I really thought I had a real good chance to win. I’m hoping this shows how legit Top Chef really is. The show is creating a new breed of highly skilled superchefs that can think really fast on the fly.”
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Category Tags: Top Chef, Cheftestants
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Woo at the Zoo, the opening of “Genesis Robot” at Synetic Theater, and the Washington DC International Wine & Food Festival.
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Our recommendations for the best in live music over the next seven days.
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Ann Limpert
Though Ann Limpert graduated from Connecticut College with a degree in art history and creative writing, she spent most of her time in New England debating the merits of warm, buttery lobster rolls vs. cold, mayo-y ones. She spent two years covering the internet for Entertainment Weekly magazine (highlights include interviewing the Beastie Boys and dancing to "Livin' la Vida Loca" with Penn Jillette), then left to hone her kitchen skills at the Institute of Culinary Education. She has worked as a cook at several New York restaurants, researched and edited cookbooks, and now writes about food and restaurants for the Washingtonian.
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Kate Nerenberg
Kate Nerenberg started as an editorial intern at The Washingtonian in January 2008 and became an assistant editor in September 2008. A native of West Hartford, Connecticut, she spent the first half of her writing life as a sports reporter, and was the editor of the athletics section for the newspaper and student-run magazine while at Middlebury College. A joint Spanish and Art History major, Kate graduated in 2005 and took off on a year-long journey around the world. After tasting everything from fried crickets to lavish Turkish breakfasts, she realized she wanted to devote herself to writing about food, a lifelong passion. She lives with three roommates just east of Logan Circle in a house that's often filled with the smell of sauteed garlic, warm banana bread, or fried bacon and eggs.
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Rina Rapuano
Rina Rapuano's English degree from Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond put her on the path to becoming a managing editor of a weekly business magazine; a freelance copy editor; and assistant managing news editor—and later the lifestyles editor—at a weekly paper in Maryland. But she realized her true calling when her descriptions of meals to friends and colleagues always seemed to end with the same statement: “You're making me hungry.” Frankly, it was making Rina hungry, too. She chucked her day job in 2006 to become a full-time freelance writer focusing mainly on food, and now works as assistant food and wine editor at The Washingtonian.
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