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Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.

Category: Cooking at Home

Brunch Spotlight: Ardeo + Bardeo

By Anna Spiegel

Each week, we’ll point you toward a mid-morning meal around town.

Ardeo + Bardeo, where the mimosas flow freely. Photograph courtesy of Ardeo + Bardeo via Facebook.

Ardeo + Bardeo, where the mimosas flow freely. Photograph courtesy of Ardeo + Bardeo via Facebook.

The Coffee: La Colombe, roasted in Philadelphia 

The Mood: Boisterous and all-inclusive, with a mix of neighborhood families, groups, and solo diners sipping coffee and catching a game at the bar. 

A wine bar with a top-notch small-plates menu—Ardeo + Bardeo, for example—isn’t what leaps to mind at brunch time. But restaurateur Ashok Bajaj’s sleek Cleveland Park dining rooms were packed on a recent Sunday afternoon with boisterous diners who know the secret: There’s nothing small about the daytime offerings.
Oh, you can still nibble on charcuterie if you want, but better to go with the crowd and pick two courses from the set menu, offered alongside unlimited J. Roget champagne or mimosas ($25 per person). Crispy, lightly charred Brussels sprouts, dressed up for breakfast with tangy yogurt and chopped pistachios, are a surprisingly addictive starter, while creamy salmon rillettes with everything bagels make for a tasty riff on bagels and lox. Rock shrimp and grits, dressed with arugula and a lobster emulsion, are surprisingly light. On the other end of the spectrum, there’s a smoky burger topped with cheddar, house-made bacon, and a fried egg. When combined with frequent top-offs from servers bearing jugs of mimosas, it may just inspire an afternoon nap.

Brunch at Ardeo + Bardeo is served every Saturday and Sunday from 11 AM to 3 PM.



Category Tags: Cooking at Home

Chat Alert: Chef Robert Wiedmaier Talks Turkey

Want Thanksgiving Day advice from a top DC toque? Marcel's chef Wiedmaier weighs in this Wednesday at 11 AM.

Robert Wiedmaier in his kitchen at Brasserie Beck.

Robert Wiedmaier in his kitchen at Brasserie Beck.

This Wednesday, Chef Robert Wiedmaier, the man behind Marcel's, Brasserie Beck, Brabo, and Mussel Bar, will stop by the Washingtonian offices for a live online chat about best practices for cooking up a flawless T-Day feast.

The conversation starts at 11 AM on Wednesday, November 16, but you can submit your questions now, here.



Category Tags: Cooking at Home, Holiday Eats

Flash Freeze: Ice Pops in Ten Minutes

By Rina Rapuano

Long gone are the days of the grape-flavored ice pop. There's now a machine that lets you customize the frozen treats with everything from banana slices to graham crackers.

Popsicles are appearing in restaurants, at farmers markets, and at Williams-Sonoma in the form of an ice-pop maker that promises them in less than ten minutes. We gave it a try.

The photos accompanying the Zoku Quick Pop Maker ($49.95) show star cutouts, zigzags, and artfully arranged fruit. We didn’t expect to replicate these fancy pops (what happened to freezing a wooden stick in a cup of grape juice?), but the machine makes them doable.

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Category Tags: From the Magazine, Cooking at Home

Beyond Tomato and Basil: New Plants for Your Home Garden

By Sharon Stirling

Here's how to get the most out of your garden—and how to use your bounty in the kitchen.

Firefly chef Danny Bortnick likes what he can pick in his home garden. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Firefly chef Danny Bortnick likes what he can pick in his home garden. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Looking to plant something a little more exciting than tomato and basil? We asked local chefs with gardens of their own for easy-to-grow ideas.

Rob Weland, chef at Poste in DC’s Penn Quarter, suggests planting salad greens: “They’re extremely easy and come back quickly when cut correctly.” He especially likes the slightly bitter flavors of dandelion, kale, and geranium, and he grows mesclun and mâche for their softer textures.

When it comes to herbs, Firefly chef Danny Bortnick favors lemon verbena: “It smells great and adds great flavor to salads and even cocktails.” He tends more than 70 varieties of fruits, vegetables, and herbs in his 450-square-foot home garden.

Perhaps the most avid gardener is Frank Ruta, chef/owner of Palena in DC’s Cleveland Park. He plants seeds he’s saved from year to year, with some strains dating back to his childhood. In early July, he plants shelling beans and Italian heirloom squash.

You can save and replant heirloom seeds by collecting them from ripened vegetables, washing and drying them, and then storing them in airtight containers in a cool, dark, dry place until you’re ready to use them next season.

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Category Tags: From the Magazine, Cooking at Home

Sophie at the Stove: Chickpea and Avocado Salad

By Sophie Gilbert

The Washingtonian's resident Brit shares her home-cooking adventures—and proves that there's more to English food than bangers and mash.

Sophie's inexpensive salad whose simplicity reminds her of home. Photograph by John Wilwol

Sophie's inexpensive salad whose simplicity reminds her of home. Photograph by John Wilwol

If I were a businessman (and it should be immediately apparent from my choice of career that I am not), one of the first things I’d do is import Sainsbury’s to the U.S. The British supermarket chain is probably the thing I miss most from home (hopefully my mom isn’t reading this), and it’s just about impossible to find anything here that even comes close. British pork-belly mini joints with apple-and-shallot stuffing? Done. Broccoli-and-Stilton quiche with a crunch cheddar crumb? Sold. Looking at the Web site now is enough to make my poor, Trader Joe’s-condemned self weep. What I wouldn’t give right now for a Gruyère-topped bap (a soft roll) or six.

The brilliant thing about British supermarket chains is that they put mini stores on almost every street corner, meaning organic arugula and Oyster Bay wine are just steps away no matter where you are. And it also means that pre-made lunch options are a cinch, whether you’re a fan of char-grilled vegetable couscous for £1.59 (about $2.50) or edamame-and-butter-bean salad for a mere £1.99 (about $3.15). Getting a wholesome lunch in England is an inexpensive cinch, even if you’re confronted with Cadbury’s chocolate at every checkout line. Getting lunch in DC? I don’t have a window in my office, but if I did I’d be looking out at a Staples, a Potbelly, and a Corner Bakery, none of which seem to be tempting me with the siren call of whole grains and exotic vegetables. Yes, there’s always my hometown import, Pret A Manger, but my monthly spending there is starting to rival my mortgage, and the staff give me the same kind of judgmental looks that bartenders give alcoholics.

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Category Tags: Cooking at Home, Recipes, Sophie at the Stove

How to Make the Perfect Burger: Tips From Michael Landrum

By Anna Spiegel

The owner of the Obama-approved Ray's Hell-Burger told us everything we've ever wanted to know about burgers—from meat-grinding to condiment choice.

A wonderfully messy sandwich from Ray's Hell-Burger.

A wonderfully messy sandwich from Ray's Hell-Burger.

If there's one meal to make for Fourth of July weekend, it's burgers on the grill. And if there's one guy who can do it right, it's Michael Landrum. The Ray's Hell-Burger and Hell-Burger Too owner has built a local mecca for hamburger-lovers that serves everyone from college kids to President Obama. For replicating Ray's burgers at home, here are Landrum's tips.

DIY Meat
For maximum flavor and juiciness, Landrum swears by grinding your own burger meat. Any Cuisinart food processor or simple hand-grinder does the trick. The golden ratio is 80 percent fattier chuck-eye steak from a market such as Whole Foods—you can pre-order a whole portion from a chuck roast—and 20 percent leaner flank or skirt steak. Always use whole cuts, not scraps or pre-cubed meat.

Landrum says it's important to keep both the grinder and the meat cold so the fat doesn't melt out. Cube the steaks and freeze the beef and tools for about 20 minutes, or until a layer of ice spreads across the meat. If using a processor, pulse it quickly for a rough chop—avoid the puréed texture of grocery-store patties—or guide it through the grinder without pushing. The coarse texture will give the burger what Landrum calls a "meatier, more primordial satisfaction."

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Category Tags: Cooking at Home, Recipes

Farmers Market Find: Onion Blossoms

By Phoebe Connelly

Every week, our author will highlight an ingredient that's at its peak at area farmers markets. Learn to choose the best produce, where to store it, and—most importantly—how to use it.

Onion blossoms look a lot like dandelions and have a mild onion-like flavor. Photograph by Phoebe Connelly

The ingredient: Onion blossoms. These green-and-white dandelion-like flowers come out in late spring. Farmers cut them off the tops of onion plants to encourage growth in the bulb underground. The flavor is similar to an onion, but milder. They should be available for two or three more weeks.

Read More

Category Tags: Cooking at Home, Recipes

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What to Do This Weekend: February 9 to 12

Woo at the Zoo, the opening of “Genesis Robot” at Synetic Theater, and the Washington DC International Wine & Food Festival. more

Music Picks: Jack’s Mannequin, All Things Gold, Steve Aoki

Our recommendations for the best in live music over the next seven days. more

Ann Limpert

Though Ann Limpert graduated from Connecticut College with a degree in art history and creative writing, she spent most of her time in New England debating the merits of warm, buttery lobster rolls vs. cold, mayo-y ones. She spent two years covering the internet for Entertainment Weekly magazine (highlights include interviewing the Beastie Boys and dancing to "Livin' la Vida Loca" with Penn Jillette), then left to hone her kitchen skills at the Institute of Culinary Education. She has worked as a cook at several New York restaurants, researched and edited cookbooks, and now writes about food and restaurants for the Washingtonian. more

Kate Nerenberg

Kate Nerenberg started as an editorial intern at The Washingtonian in January 2008 and became an assistant editor in September 2008. A native of West Hartford, Connecticut, she spent the first half of her writing life as a sports reporter, and was the editor of the athletics section for the newspaper and student-run magazine while at Middlebury College. A joint Spanish and Art History major, Kate graduated in 2005 and took off on a year-long journey around the world. After tasting everything from fried crickets to lavish Turkish breakfasts, she realized she wanted to devote herself to writing about food, a lifelong passion. She lives with three roommates just east of Logan Circle in a house that's often filled with the smell of sauteed garlic, warm banana bread, or fried bacon and eggs. more

Rina Rapuano

Rina Rapuano's English degree from Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond put her on the path to becoming a managing editor of a weekly business magazine; a freelance copy editor; and assistant managing news editor—and later the lifestyles editor—at a weekly paper in Maryland. But she realized her true calling when her descriptions of meals to friends and colleagues always seemed to end with the same statement: “You're making me hungry.” Frankly, it was making Rina hungry, too. She chucked her day job in 2006 to become a full-time freelance writer focusing mainly on food, and now works as assistant food and wine editor at The Washingtonian. more

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