- Food Trends

Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.

Humble to Haute: Hot Dogs Get Fancy

By Todd Kliman , Cynthia Hacinli , Ann Limpert , Kate Nerenberg , Rina Rapuano

With baseball season heating up, our thoughts turn to hot dogs. And while some might think you can’t improve the ballpark staple, several area chefs are trying to do just that. We’ll start at the humble end of the spectrum.

Photographs by Stacy Zarin-Goldberg.

Chili dogs are $1.50 at the Vienna Inn.

Chili dogs are $1.50 at the Vienna Inn.

Vienna Inn (120 Maple Ave. E., Vienna; 703-938-9548). It may not get as much press as other hot-dog joints like Ben’s Chili Bowl, but regulars flock here for cheap dogs loaded with mustard, onion, and chili ($1.50 each). Where else can you get three chili dogs and a beer for less than $10?

 

Ben’s Chili Bowl (1213 U St., NW; 202-667-0909). Legendary for its celebrity clientele, Ben’s doesn’t disappoint when it comes to chili dogs and half-smokes ($3.60 to $4.95), the hot dog’s larger, spicier cousin. Each grilled dog comes with chips, but the best accompaniments are the perfectly crisp fries and a milkshake.

 

Johnny’s Half Shell (400 N. Capitol St., NW; 202-737-0400). Johnny’s can be both upscale and down-home. During lunch, diners can satisfy cravings for caviar and blinis but also for a hot dog, split and grilled, with fries ($8.75). Johnny’s does give it a twist with some highfalutin toppings, though: The more traditional sauerkraut can be replaced with garden vegetables or bleu cheese.

 

 

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Fish of the Day

By Todd Kliman , Cynthia Hacinli , Ann Limpert , Kate Nerenberg , Rina Rapuano

Every few years an obscure fish is plucked from the deep, rechristened, and anointed a star. Consider Chilean sea bass (a.k.a. Patagonian toothfish), black cod (sablefish), and skate (stingray). Now it’s branzino—formerly known as Mediterranean sea bass.

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Trickle-Up Theory?

By Todd Kliman , Cynthia Hacinli , Ann Limpert , Rina Rapuano , Kate Nerenberg

Photograph by Stacy Zarin-Goldberg

Restaurant Eve's papri chaat isn’t your typical Indian street snack.

Restaurant Eve's papri chaat isn’t your typical Indian street snack.

Scan the menu at the Dupont Circle restaurant Mark and Orlando’s and you’ll find crab cakes, a bleu-cheese-stuffed pork chop, and . . . pupusas?

They might be made with buffalo mozzarella and drizzled with tomato vinaigrette, but the griddled patties here ($8) recall ones from Salvadoran joints. Chef/owner Orlando Hiltzig fell in love with the snacks when he was working at Vidalia, where a cook brought them in for staff.

They’re not the only street-cart specialty on upscale menus. Cathal Armstrong of Alexandria’s Restaurant Eve says, “The ethnic stuff usually comes from something personal.” He put papri chaat, the tamarind-splashed Indian potato salad, on Eve’s bistro menu to please his chef de cuisine’s vegan girlfriend. His is made with micro-cilantro, house-made yogurt, and fingerlings.

 

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Things We Love: Hush Puppies at EatBar

By Todd Kliman , Rina Rapuano , Kate Nerenberg , Cynthia Hacinli , Ann Limpert

The hush puppies at EatBar in Arlington come with maple butter on the side—and a secret ingredient in the buttermilk batter. Photograph of hush puppies by Stacy Zarin-Goldberg.

On a menu full of nostalgic finger foods, many under $10, it’s tempting to sample one of everything at Arlington’s EatBar. And nearly everything is worth a try.

But it’s a plate of hush puppies, six to an order, that triumphs as the ultimate comfort food: With a dab of the accompanying maple butter, the warm, Ping-Pong-ball-size treats recall a plateful of fluffy, syrupy pancakes.

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The Wrap-Up: The Week in Food

Venerable downtown lunch counter C.F. Folks has a new chefGeorget Vetsch, the opening chef at Circle Bistro and a veteran of Etrusco and the Oval Room. Aside from turning out crabcake sandwiches and daily international-themed specials, he’s considering adding something entirely new to the menu: dinner.


Local cousins Khoa Nguyen, events coordinator at Vidalia, and Denise Nguyen were the first pair to leave chef/terror Marco Pierre White’s new NBC kitchen reality show, The Chopping Block. But they weren’t booted off. The duo left on their own accord, on account of the backstabbing, the drama, and perhaps White telling Khoa to “put his balls on the table.” But will they be back? Vidalia chef R.J. Cooper hints that that might be the case.

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What’s Up With . . . Herbs in Desserts?

By Todd Kliman , Ann Limpert , Cynthia Hacinli , Kate Nerenberg , Rina Rapuano

The Oval Room’s kalamansi-lime tart, garnished with powdered candied cilantro and fresh micro-cilantro, proves that savory and sweet aren’t strange bedfellows.
Photograph by Scott Suchman.

The Oval Room’s kalamansi-lime tart, garnished with powdered candied cilantro and fresh micro-cilantro, proves that savory and sweet aren’t strange bedfellows. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

Combine the arrival of President Obama with some new celebrity chefs in Washington and you get a restaurant scene that’s as much a draw as the museums. Dining trends, such as molecular gastronomy—innovative cuisine that includes foams, “molecules,” and flavored “air”—have migrated south from New York and east from Los Angeles. Now Washington pastry chefs have picked up on the latest fad: using herbs as garnishes, infusions, and ingredients in desserts.

“It’s a changing of the guard here—the younger chefs are exploring and pushing a little bit harder,” says Tony Conte, chef at the Oval Room. A disciple of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who opened eyes at his Manhattan restaurant Jean-Georges by mixing herbs with sweets, Conte seems to push harder than most. On his current menu, a kalamansi-lime tart comes with candied cilantro.

Washington restaurantgoers are responding well to the trend. “Five years ago,” says Heather Chittum, who has a sage pound cake on the menu at Hook, “I don’t think diners would have been willing to try something with herbs.”

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One Type-A Cookie

By Bekah Grant

Counting any leftover Thin Mints still in the freezer, more Girl Scout cookies were eaten last year in the Washington area than anywhere else in the country. Washingtonians bought almost 4.2 million boxes of cookies in 2008—or roughly 114 boxes for each of the 36,000 regional scouts who sold cookies. Like the rest of the nation, Washingtonians bought mostly Thin Mints and coconut Samoas.

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Where & When: What to Do This Weekend

Tons of Fourth of July parties, fireworks, pool parties galore, a pig roast, the closing of the Folklife Festival and Artomatic, and lots more in this jam-packed weekend guide. more

Ooh, Aah: We Want Your Fireworks Photos

Send us your photos of Fourth of July fireworks to add to our slide show. more

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Ann Limpert

Though Ann Limpert graduated from Connecticut College with a degree in art history and creative writing, she spent most of her time in New England debating the merits of warm, buttery lobster rolls vs. cold, mayo-y ones. She spent two years covering the internet for Entertainment Weekly magazine (highlights include interviewing the Beastie Boys and dancing to "Livin' la Vida Loca" with Penn Jillette), then left to hone her kitchen skills at the Institute of Culinary Education. She has worked as a cook at several New York restaurants, researched and edited cookbooks, and now writes about food and restaurants for the Washingtonian. more

Kate Nerenberg

Kate Nerenberg started as an editorial intern at The Washingtonian in January 2008 and became an assistant editor in September 2008. A native of West Hartford, Connecticut, she spent the first half of her writing life as a sports reporter, and was the editor of the athletics section for the newspaper and student-run magazine while at Middlebury College. A joint Spanish and Art History major, Kate graduated in 2005 and took off on a year-long journey around the world. After tasting everything from fried crickets to lavish Turkish breakfasts, she realized she wanted to devote herself to writing about food, a lifelong passion. She lives with three roommates just east of Logan Circle in a house that's often filled with the smell of sauteed garlic, warm banana bread, or fried bacon and eggs. more

Rina Rapuano

Rina Rapuano's English degree from Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond put her on the path to becoming a managing editor of a weekly business magazine; a freelance copy editor; and assistant managing news editor—and later the lifestyles editor—at a weekly paper in Maryland. But she realized her true calling when her descriptions of meals to friends and colleagues always seemed to end with the same statement: “You're making me hungry.” Frankly, it was making Rina hungry, too. She chucked her day job in 2006 to become a full-time freelance writer focusing mainly on food, and now works as assistant food and wine editor at The Washingtonian. more