By Jessica Voelker, Todd Kliman
Yamas Mediterranean Grill
We knew something was off when we stepped into this Greek cafe--where were the aromas of garlic and herbs? The bold flavors that once drew us to Yamas appear to have flattened: Roast potatoes tasted of the steam table, a whole fish with herbs and lemon was overcooked, and a rotisserie chicken could have come from the supermarket. Only spanakopita and taramasalata had zip.
Lyon Hall
Mussels are popular at this brasserie, but there are also rewards in less obvious items such as escargots in garlic-butter; cornmeal-crusted flounder; and a riff on currywurst featuring a juicy brat, pickled cauliflower, and curry aïoli. House-made breads are gratis--but don't let that dissuade you from starting with salt-studded soft pretzels accompanied by a trio of mustards.
The Bombay Club
This handsome dining room has been overshadowed by its more modern sibling Rasika. But on a recent Friday, the place bubbled over with happy families and well-dressed thirtysomethings sipping martinis. Too-formal service stifled the sense of fun, but tandoori salmon was tender, the lamb shank in the nalli gosht was fragrant with cinnamon, and pillowy naan and onion kulcha were perfect for soaking up all that sauce.
This article appears in the May 2012 issue of The Washingtonian.
By Ann Limpert
 Creamy corn adds richness to the golf-ball-size starters at these zydeco-playing joints. 14 Loudoun St., SE, Leesburg, 703-777-6580; 1825 18th St., NW, 202-670-4416. |
 There's plenty of fried goodness on Michael Harr's menu, but the standout is a plate of buttermilk-enriched hushpuppies to be dunked in honey-dill butter. Harr tried to take them off the menu, but too many diners complained. 7272 Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda; 301-652-8008. |
 Cedric Maupillier, who learned to fuse French and American sensibilities under Michel Richard at Citronelle and Central, pumps up his hushpuppies with a classic Gallic combination: escargots with plenty of garlic. 1813 Columbia Rd., NW; 202-234-6732. |
 The hidden gem at this upscale Southern dining room is its affordable, recently expanded bar menu, which offers terrific snacks such as these darkly fried drops of cornbread flecked with crawfish and served with smoked honey butter. 1990 M St., NW; 202-659-1990. |
Photographs by Scott Suchman.
This article appears in the May 2012 issue of The Washingtonian.
By Anna Spiegel
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Go Fish |
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Corned Beef King |
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Cupcake Blvd |
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Curley's Q |
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Pino's Auto Grill |
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Thatsalata |
Photographs by Erik Uecke.
This article appears in the May 2012 issue of The Washingtonian. Visit our slideshow of Montgomery County trucks to see tasty pictures of individual dishes.
Poor gin. It's so often associated with our first, ill-conceived alcohol adventures: nips from Mom and Dad's liquor cabinet, cloying drinks at frat parties. Handled properly, however, gin is one of the most complex and delicious spirits. Gin gets its taste and aroma from botanicals steeped into it--predominantly juniper berry, though many distillers add other ingredients to get a spicier or more floral product.
The increasing range of gins calls for a diversity of tonics. At New Heights in DC's Woodley Park, house-made tonics such as the #4, flavored with mango, are paired with 50-odd gins. Co-owner Kavita Singh says the #3, scented with lime and orange flower, brings out the stone-fruit qualities of the West Virginia gin Smooth Ambler and complements "aromatic, fresh" Old Raj. The list of tonics keeps expanding--bar manager Nicole Hassoun recently concocted a ginger-and-cracked-pepper tonic inspired by the notes of grapefruit peel and ginger in the newly available Breuckelen's Glorious Gin from Brooklyn.
You might not know Ron Tanaka's name--he tends to stay out of the spotlight--but he has cooked at such high-profile restaurants as Palena and CityZen. After almost four years at Cork, he now mans the stoves at New Heights. He took a break from testing a pickled-boar recipe to tell us about his favorite drinks, dream trip, and takeout of choice.
Always on the bar: Nolet's gin.
Special-occasion drink: White burgundy from Etienne Sauzet.
Post-work bar: Bar Pilar on DC's 14th Street.
Liquor store: Barrel House Liquors in DC's Logan Circle.
Energy source: Vitamin Water Focus.
Breakfast: Steak and eggs.
Lunch spot: Chix, near DC's U Street. "It's very serene."
Lazy carryout spot: Thaiphoon in Dupont Circle.
Sandwich: Corned beef on rye from Deli City in Northeast DC.
Healthy snack: Banana.
By Ann Limpert, Jessica Voelker
Dogfish Head Alehouse
On a Saturday night, the Seven Corners branch of this brewpub crawled with kids, lending it a happy chaos seldom seen in bars. Ales--such as Namaste, a witbier, and Chateau Jiahu, made with Muscat grapes--were excellent. Food was hit or miss: Old Bay wings hit the spot, but a burger was overpowered by marinated mushrooms and chipotle mayo was the best thing about mahi-mahi tacos. Next time we'll get a double order of wings and keep the beers coming.
By Jessica Voelker
Photograph by Scott Suchman.
"I have the palate of a five-year-old," says Jennifer Voories, the DC baker behind a line of desserts called Sweet Moe's. Her treats, though, are tailored to more adult tastes. A Ding Dong looks like the flat-topped Hostess cake of the same name, but it's made with chocolate cake and cinnamon-laced cream filling devoid of a chemical aftertaste.
Voories's fascination with kid-friendly food dates from her childhood. She grew up across from a Hostess outlet in Michigan and regularly shopped the day-old store for Sno Balls and Wonder Bread.
Her crowning achievement so far is a take on Archway's petal-edged Frosty Lemon cookies. She says she struggled to do justice to the lemony glaze, but her version is brightly citrusy and not too sweet. It tops a light, crisp cookie--a perfect afternoon snack for sweets lovers of all ages.
Some Sweet Moe's items are on the menu at Red Palace. Voories also takes orders on Sweet Moe's Facebook page.
This article appears in the April 2012 issue of The Washingtonian.
Photograph by Scott Suchman.
This winter, newlyweds Ashley Hubbard and Robert Ludlow went from hawking their creatively flavored chocolates at farmers markets to opening Fleurir Chocolates (3235 P St., NW; 202-465-4368), a gem of a boutique in Georgetown. We asked them about their dream splurges and other favorite things.
Photograph by Erik Uecke.
The bacon craze has resulted in many pork-infused disasters--ice creams, air fresheners--so we were skeptical when Virginia Lamb & Meats' bacon jam ($8) appeared at the Dupont Circle FreshFarm Market. But after sampling the bourbon-colored spread,which has echoes of maple syrup, we're hooked.
Virginia Lamb owners Corey and Janet Childs aren't jumping on a current trend but mining an old one. "Potting," or slow-cooking meat with a good deal of fat, is a tradition. For the jam, bacon is smoked from the hogs raised by the couple's 14-year-old son, then braised. Spread it on toast for a double BLT or grilled cheese, mix it into a steak marinade, or slather it on pancakes. However you use it, this is one product that will survive the bacon boom.
This article appears in the March 2012 issue of The Washingtonian.
Redwood on Bethesda Row. Photograph by Jasmine Touton.
Evening Star Cafe
At this renovated Del Ray favorite, CityZen alum Jim Jeffords is creating impeccable riffs on Southern classics. Plump shrimp marinated in shallots, garlic, and pepper flakes top creamy grits; pan-roasted duck breast comes with hazelnut-studded dirty rice. Pimiento-cheese-filled Peppadew peppers are crisp and slightly spicy--a perfect way to start dinner. To end it, there's a deep-fried, honey-laced Fluffernutter sandwich with banana ice cream. -Jessica Voelker
Redwood
The menu at this handsome Bethesda Row eatery is full of ingredient-focused, straightforward dishes--the kind that show every flaw. On a recent visit, dressing on a salad of beets and arugula lacked the acid needed to give the dish verve, and a gratin of artichokes, sunchokes, fingerlings, and chèvre was greasy and underseasoned. The highlight was the burger, made with beef from Maryland's Roseda Farms and dressed with snappy pickles. -Jessica Voelker
Kafe Leopold & Konditorei
The white-on-white decor looks a bit worn and service is on the officious side, but that hasn't stopped a cashmere-clad Georgetown crowd from coming. That's thanks to the fact that the kitchen has been holding up its end, sending out a zippy kale salad, lemony roast chicken, and a decadent croque monsieur. Alas, the pastries in the glass cases are still better to look at than to eat. -Ann Limpert
This article appears in the March 2012 issue of The Washingtonian.
