Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.

The Wrap-Up: The Week in Food

By Ann Limpert

Every week we fill you in on what’s been going on in the food and restaurant world.

• As if pleading guilty to a felony embezzlement charge wasn’t bad enough, Washington City Paper’s Tim Carman reports that Italian chef Roberto Donna, of the late Galileo and Bebo Trattoria, may owe hundreds of thousands of dollars for what a judge ruled as “minimum wage, overtime, and equal pay violations.” Thursday, Donna will face a hearing to figure out what he owes the 11 employees—bussers, servers, and even his personal assistant—who are bringing the complaint. What will the chef’s latest set of problems do to his forthcoming resurrection of Galileo? Carman notes that the day of ruling, Donna posted an ad on DonRockwell.com looking for a mixologist for a bar to open in August.

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Top Chef Goodbye Interviews: Episode 7

By Ann Mah

This week’s Top Chef featured a Quickfire of lobbyist-friendly toothpick snacks, followed by an elimination challenge that sent the contestants to cook a “power lunch” at the Palm, using the restaurant’s proteins. Saddled with swordfish, Miami chef Andrea Curto-Randazzo dished it up pan-seared with a vanilla/mustard beurre blanc. Alas, the judges found her dish too “sweet” and “totally unfocused” and sent her home. She chatted with us about the case of the missing pea puree, her rivalry with fellow Miami chef Michelle Bernstein, and why she wouldn't do the show again.

 

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Eating in Other Cities: Los Angeles

By Harry Jaffe

A traveler's tale of discovering that, contrary to popular belief, there is life in downtown Los Angeles.

Nobody walks in Los Angeles. But by a series of dumb tourist moves and poor planning, I found myself wandering the streets of downtown LA one balmy weekend in June. Lo and behold, there was life—better yet, there was food.

The trip to LA was pleasure with purpose. One of my daughters had been studying in South America for five months. Her first stop back in the States was Los Angeles. I decided to meet her and spend the weekend there.

I don’t do trip planning. I’m lucky to book a flight and a room the day before I travel. Searching online for a hotel in Los Angeles confounded me. Hollywood? West Hollywood? Beverly Hills? Santa Monica? Culver City? I settled on downtown, which seemed central and familiar. I booked a room at the Standard Hotel. I had never heard of the place.

“Why would you stay in downtown LA?” my cousin from Encino asked. “There’s nothing there.”

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Top Chef DC: Episode 7—Ethics, Schmethics

By Carol Blymire

Did anyone else think it was a tad gruesome to open tonight's episode with shots of the city's cemeteries and the Vietnam War Memorial, and have the first line out of someone's mouth be, "People in our room keep getting whacked"? No, just me? Carry on, then.

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Recipe Sleuth: Tabard Inn’s Crab Tart

By Rachel Tepper

This quiche-like dish is simple to make, and it highlights some of summer's best produce: corn, basil, and peppers.

Tabard Inn’s crab tart has an impressive record: In a restaurant with a rotating menu, the dish has never come off in more than 25 years. Its lengthy stay is thanks to a generation of indecisive diners; the dish was chosen, says restaurant manager Neidra Holmstrom, to “cater to those that wanted a little breakfast or brunch during our lunch hours.” Here’s how to make it at home.

Have a restaurant recipe you’d like sniffed out? E-mail recipesleuth@washingtonian.com.

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Top Chef: Alumni Predictions—Episode 7

Throughout the season, we’ve been asking local Top Chef alumni for their predictions on upcoming episodes.

Carla Hall says that Kenny's dish had "too much going on." Photograph courtesy of Bravo TV.

Carla Hall says that Kenny's dish had "too much going on." Photograph courtesy of Bravo TV.

This week, Alchemy Caterers’ Carla Hall weighs in on last week’s hard lessons and which contestants might still be around because they make for good TV.

How did you feel about last week’s Elimination Challenge [episode 6 recap here], where the chefs got to judge each other’s food and then nominate one person for the winner’s circle and one for the loser’s circle?
“When I found out the chefs had the power to put their fellow chefs in the top or the bottom, I was surprised. My first thought was that they’d judge each other much harder than they’d want to be judged, because I think the chefs can be rather critical of each other and not very objective. As a whole, we’ve seen this group of chefs get quite competitive and seemingly nasty to each other. I’m hoping that the judges weighed in on this decision more than what we saw.”

Do you think the chefs put Kenny in the bottom as a strategic move?
“I think the other chefs went into the process wanting to strategize and knock Kenny out of the race. However, Kenny’s dish had too much going on. I appreciate the fact that he’s super-talented and fast, but I think the duo [of lamb that he prepared] needs to be a super-duper onesie.”

What do you think of Tamesha going home? Do you think she should have been able to last longer?
“I was surprised that two of my favorites, Tamesha and Kenny, were in the bottom. I expected Tamesha to go much further. Like I’ve said before: You’re only as good as your last dish, and Tamesha’s dish sounded a bit weird. It’s funny that the simple dishes were at the top and the ‘over-thought’ ones were at the bottom. Hmmm.”
 

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Chew on This: Should Restaurants Allow Food Photos?

By Kate Nerenberg

In restaurant critic Todd Kliman's chat today, a reader said that he or she had recently splurged on a meal at Komi. "The food was amazing, the ambiance was great, and the service was impeccable," the reader wrote. "My only complaint? I was told the chef doesn't allow photos of the food to be taken."

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The Wrap-Up: The Week in Food

Every week we fill you in on what’s been going on in the food and restaurant world. more

Missed Connections: Ambiguity Edition

Antique-car collections, a lack of kayaks, and incomplete sentences on Craigslist. more

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Ann Limpert

Though Ann Limpert graduated from Connecticut College with a degree in art history and creative writing, she spent most of her time in New England debating the merits of warm, buttery lobster rolls vs. cold, mayo-y ones. She spent two years covering the internet for Entertainment Weekly magazine (highlights include interviewing the Beastie Boys and dancing to "Livin' la Vida Loca" with Penn Jillette), then left to hone her kitchen skills at the Institute of Culinary Education. She has worked as a cook at several New York restaurants, researched and edited cookbooks, and now writes about food and restaurants for the Washingtonian. more

Kate Nerenberg

Kate Nerenberg started as an editorial intern at The Washingtonian in January 2008 and became an assistant editor in September 2008. A native of West Hartford, Connecticut, she spent the first half of her writing life as a sports reporter, and was the editor of the athletics section for the newspaper and student-run magazine while at Middlebury College. A joint Spanish and Art History major, Kate graduated in 2005 and took off on a year-long journey around the world. After tasting everything from fried crickets to lavish Turkish breakfasts, she realized she wanted to devote herself to writing about food, a lifelong passion. She lives with three roommates just east of Logan Circle in a house that's often filled with the smell of sauteed garlic, warm banana bread, or fried bacon and eggs. more

Rina Rapuano

Rina Rapuano's English degree from Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond put her on the path to becoming a managing editor of a weekly business magazine; a freelance copy editor; and assistant managing news editor—and later the lifestyles editor—at a weekly paper in Maryland. But she realized her true calling when her descriptions of meals to friends and colleagues always seemed to end with the same statement: “You're making me hungry.” Frankly, it was making Rina hungry, too. She chucked her day job in 2006 to become a full-time freelance writer focusing mainly on food, and now works as assistant food and wine editor at The Washingtonian. more