Daily dispatches on the Washington, DC area's food, restaurant and dining scene.
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By
Kate Nerenberg
Every Friday, we fill you in on what’s been happening in the local restaurant world.
The Washington Post’s Going Out Gurus have good news for those who faithfully endure the long lines at Arlington’s Ray’s-Hell Burger: As of today you can get your fix at lunchtime on Fridays starting at 11:45, and as of last night you can also bite into the ten-ounce patties in the bar and lounge at Ray’s the Classics in Silver Spring. Cheese-heads, beware: The full selection of milky toppings won’t be available, but after seven months without liquor, Ray’s Maryland outpost is pouring the hard stuff again.
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By
Todd Kliman
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Cynthia Hacinli
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Ann Limpert
“That’s evil!” Tony Bourdain enthused, chowing on the latest cholesterol buster from Eamonn’s while taping an episode of No Reservations. He was enjoying the Chip Butty, a toasted bun slathered with Kerrygold butter and stuffed with chips. Yes, a French-fry sandwich. It’s an homage to the Bacon Butty popularized on the Britcom Keeping Up Appearances. The lower-class brother-in-law of social climber Hyacinth Bucket (pronounced “Bouquet”) waved them around while watching the races on TV.
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By
Kate Nerenberg
Although Woodstock—the iconic 1969 festival for free-spirited hippies—passed me by, last weekend I witnessed a similarly monumental event with this era’s sustainability-loving foodies. Slow Food Nation, a conference held in San Francisco last weekend, predictably celebrated patronizing farmers’ markets and eating locally. But, with the tag line “Come to the Table,” organizers tried to quell critics—who expected the weekend to be a gathering of wealthy earth-bag-toting elite—by holding panel discussions that addressed our country’s food policies.
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By
Todd Kliman
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Cynthia Hacinli
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Ann Limpert
Photograph by David Hicks.
Ordinarily we don’t recommend a restaurant for only one good dish. We’ll make an exception in the case of Max’s Kosher Cafe (2319 University Blvd., Wheaton; 301-949-6297). The dish is falafel, and it isn’t just good—it’s great. Run-out-and-grab-a-stranger great. If you’re accustomed to the dense, overspiced balls that too often constitute falafel, then the version at Max’s will open your eyes. We doubt you could get anything fried to be lighter than this.
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By
Sara Levine
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Kate Nerenberg
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Ann Limpert
Last Monday, Labor Day, marked the unofficial end of summer, so we pulled together some of our favorite foods that embody everything the season stands for: sweet fruit, frozen desserts, and ballpark eats. The official end of summer—the autumnal equinox—doesn’t come for another couple of weeks, so you still have a chance to savor heirloom tomatoes and cocktails on outdoor patios (and Marvin’s heat lamps keep crowds happy outside until winter!).
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By
Sara Levine
The Museum of the American Cocktail will host an educational and delicious event next week at Mie N Yu—with help from local cocktail guru Derek Brown.
We can’t think of an educational experience that could possibly be more fun than a museum devoted to cocktails. It does, in fact, exist—the Museum of the American Cocktail is inside the Southern Food and Beverage Museum in New Orleans and is currently working on setting up a permanent exhibit in New York. We’re still hoping for one on the Mall. For the time being, though, local mixologist/sommelier extraordinaire Derek Brown of Komi has teamed up with the cocktail-centric museum to offer special events around town. One of the museum’s founders is Phil Greene, a cocktail historian (and lawyer by day) who lives in Washington.
The next museum-sponsored event takes place September 9 from 6 to 7:30 PM at Mie N Yu in Georgetown. Brown and Greene will educate cocktail enthusiasts on the history of exotic cocktail ingredients and how bartenders have used them over time. Brown’s brother Tom of Cork and Mie N Yu barmaster Chris Kelley will be on hand to help demonstrate several drinks—including the Bombay Government Punch of 1964, the mai tai, the Moscow Mule, and their own original creations. They’ll also give tips on how to make out-of-the-ordinary libations at home. Naturally, this informative lesson also includes plenty of cocktail sampling. Tickets are $50. To order online, click here or call 202-222-0948 and ask for Mike Cherner.
Mie N Yu Restaurant, 3125 M St., NW; 202-333-6122.
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By
Sara Levine
Like New Yorkers with their bagels (and pizza, and delis . . .), transplants from the West Coast are always pining away for their beloved Baja-style fish tacos. Now they have a new place to try. Chef David Scribner isn’t from Mexico or even SoCal—he’s a Washington native who graduated from Saint Albans—but his barely three-week-old Glover Park restaurant, Surfside, is serving up fresh two-ply tortillas stuffed with grilled fish of the day. Loaded with black-bean-and-corn salsa, avocado, cabbage, and a zippy cilantro-lime sour cream, the “Maui” tacos are an early menu highlight at the surfer-inspired seafood spot.
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David Scribner's beachy Glover Park hangout offers a roof deck, tangy margaritas, and—Finally!—really good fish tacos.
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In this week's Attack on the Street, the feature where we ask friendly Washingtonians one of our burning questions, we find out what is your patented cure for the hiccups.
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Cynthia Hacinli
When she's not seeking out the best ouzo bars in Athens, bottarga in Sardinia, red chili enchiladas in El Paso, and lobster shacks in Maine, Cynthia Hacinli is a restaurant critic and a wine and food editor for Washingtonian magazine.
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Ann Limpert
Though Ann Limpert graduated from Connecticut College with a degree in art history and creative writing, she spent most of her time in New England debating the merits of warm, buttery lobster rolls vs. cold, mayo-y ones. She spent two years covering the internet for Entertainment Weekly magazine (highlights include interviewing the Beastie Boys and dancing to "Livin' la Vida Loca" with Penn Jillette), then left to hone her kitchen skills at the Institute of Culinary Education. She has worked as a cook at several New York restaurants, researched and edited cookbooks, and now writes about food and restaurants for the Washingtonian.
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Sara Levine
DC native Sara Levine is an assistant editor at the Washingtonian. While at the University of Pennsylvania, she covered the Philly food scene for the student-run weekly magazine and wrote dining and nightlife reviews for AOL City Guide Philadelphia. Back in DC, she enjoys experimenting with cooking in her small Dupont Circle kitchen, but is completely inept when it comes to making popcorn in the office microwave--just ask the interns.
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Rina Rapuano
Rina Rapuano's English degree from Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond put her on the path to becoming a managing editor of a weekly business magazine; a freelance copy editor; and assistant managing news editor—and later the lifestyles editor—at a weekly paper in Maryland. But she realized her true calling when her descriptions of meals to friends and colleagues always seemed to end with the same statement: “You're making me hungry.” Frankly, it was making Rina hungry, too. She chucked her day job in 2006 to become a full-time freelance writer focusing mainly on food, and now works as assistant food and wine editor at The Washingtonian.
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