No more Top Chef tacos for the Georgetown set. The Washington Post reported this morning that Mike Isabella parted ways with Bandolero and partner Jonathan Umbel. Former chef de cuisine Tony Starr, who previously worked with Isabella at Graffiato and Zaytinya, has been promoted to executive chef.
Isabella says he went all-in on the Mexican concept at the start, overseeing everything from the menu to the name and decor. Still, not everything was under his control in the venture, and his own projects have taken precedence of late.
“These are my restaurants,” says Isabella, referring to his newly opened Greek spot, Kapnos, and adjacent sandwich shop, G. “I really couldn’t put the time and effort into Bandolero that I wanted to. If I’m going to have my name on something, I want to be there as much as possible.”
While Isabella has seen success with his other ventures, Bandolero proved a rocky venture from the start. Reviewers were less than impressed; the taqueria received one star from our own Todd Kliman, and two from the Post’s Tom Sietsema (though with zingers like, “Desserts are bad, which is good, because you don’t want to stick around Bandolero any longer than necessary,” you’d think it would be less). And that’s just on paper. Rumors of Isabella’s departure have been circulating for months, through lawsuits between Umbel and the building’s landlord, amendments to the management agreement, and finally a temporary closure due to a failed health inspection.
As of now, Bandolero will continue to operate as usual, minus the Isabella name. As for Isabella, he’s set to launch the first evening tasting menu at his five-day-old sandwich shop on Saturday. If nothing else, he says the experience with Bandolero was a learning experience.
“I’ll only own my own restaurants from here on out,” he says.