Union Market’s Test Kitchen series—a lineup of free demos from stalls like the District Fishwife and DC Dosa—happens every Wednesday, from 6 to 8 PM, tonight through April 8th. On March 25th, BBQ Joint chef/owner Andrew Evans will show off his stuff, including these smoked, brown-sugar-rubbed wings.
Grilling season might seem far, far away on a dreary day like today, but at least this recipe gives us all something to look forward to.
Applewood-Smoked Chicken Wings with a Bourbon Glaze and Buttermilk Ranch Dressing
Makes two dozen
12 chicken wings, tips removed and split in two parts (should have 24 pieces)
½ cup BBQ seasoning rub, divided (see recipe below)
⅓ cup bourbon
¼ cup unsalted butter
3 celery stalks, sliced into thin 3-inch strips
Ranch dressing, for dipping (see recipe below)
1 cup applewood chips
Small disposable aluminum pan
Build a lump charcoal fire on one half of your grill. Fill the aluminum pan ⅓ of the way with water, and place it next to the charcoal—the bottom of your grill should be divided by lit charcoal and water pan. Let the charcoal burn for 20 minutes, then close the lid. You want a 275 degree cooking temperature.
Meanwhile toss the wings with ¼ cup of the rub. Lay them on the grill grate over the water bath. Add the applewood chips to the coals and close the lid. Maintain the 275 degree temperature by adjusting the valves of grill (more air equals hotter fire). After 45 minutes, lift lid and check the wings’ temperature with a meat thermometer. You want the wings to reach 175 degrees (if they’re not there yet, close the lid and check the temperature every 15 minutes).
In the meantime, reduce the bourbon by ½ in a small pot. Whisk in the butter and set aside. When the wings are done, toss them in a bowl with the bourbon butter then sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup of rub, and toss again until they are well coated.
Serve with ranch dressing and celery sticks.
⅓ cup brown sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon black pepper
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon celery salt
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon garlic powder
Place all the spices in a food processor and pulse to combine. Sift through a medium strainer and store in an air tight container.
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
¼ cup flat-leafed parsley, minced
2 tablespoons fresh dill, minced
1 tablespoon fresh chives, minced
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon black pepper
½ teaspoon white vinegar
¼ teaspoon paprika
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Dash hot sauce, like Tabasco
½ cup buttermilk
Place all the ingredients in a bowl and whisk to combine, preferably the night before. Season to taste.
At Mike Isabella’s 14th Street sandwich shop, I’m so hooked on the goat sub that it’s rare that I branch out and try something new. That, I realized on a visit last week, is a shame—Isabella’s rotation of sandwiches designed by guest chefs contains a few knockouts of its own. There’s Jonah Kim’s Kim-fil-A, anchored by a fried chicken patty that tastes eerily (and wonderfully) similar to what you’ll get at a Chick-fil-A drive-thru—but also loaded with tangy fermented-chili slaw, bacon, and that long-forgotten cheese, Muenster. Even better is a new addition to the lineup from Carla Hall, the sunny cohost of The Chew who just announced plans to bring a Nashville hot chicken restaurant to New York, and eventually, DC.
Her Buffalo-wing-inspired Happy Hour Burger is made up of a thick chicken patty that, unlike pretty much every other chicken patty I’ve had, is far more juicy than rubbery. It’s set on a soft Lyon Bakery potato roll, slathered with spicy mayo (Frank’s hot sauce gives it the kick), and piled with crunchy celery-and-blue-cheese slaw. Basically, it’s exactly what you’d hope for as a happy hour snack. Or for lunch. Or dinner.
It’s currently on the menu at G through the end of October. If you can't make it there in time, though, we've got Hall's recipe.
Carla Hall’s Happy Hour Burger
Make the spicy mayonnaise:
¾ cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon hot sauce (preferably Frank’s)
2 teaspoons honey
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, lemon juice, hot sauce, honey, and cayenne until smooth. Refrigerate until needed.
Make the celery/blue-cheese slaw:
4 celery ribs, thinly sliced at an angle
½ cup very thinly sliced red onion
½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon lemon zest
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon black pepper
¼ cup crumbled blue cheese
In a large bowl, combine the celery, onions, and parsley. Add the vinegar, oil, lemon zest, salt, and pepper and toss well. Gently toss in the blue cheese.
Make the burgers:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon olive oil, plus more for frying
⅓ cup minced yellow onion
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons hot sauce (preferably Frank’s)
½ teaspoon dried thyme leaves
½ teaspoon crushed red chili flakes
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1¼ pounds coarsely ground chicken or turkey breast meat
4 brioche or potato buns, toasted if desired
In a small skillet set over medium-high heat, heat the butter and oil. When the butter is almost melted, add the onion and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes, then stir in the garlic. When the onion is golden and tender, stir in the hot sauce, thyme, chili flakes, and pepper. Transfer to a large bowl and cool to room temperature.
Combine the chicken with the cooled onions using slightly damp hands. You want it well mixed, but you don’t want to squeeze it and make it tough. Form the mixture into four burgers ½-inch larger in diameter than the buns. Use your thumb to dimple the center of each patty.
Coat a large nonstick skillet with oil and heat over medium-high heat. Add the burgers and cook until browned, about 3 minutes, then carefully flip them. Cook until the other side is browned and the meat cooked through, about 3 minutes longer. The burger will feel firm and the juices will run clear.
Slather the spicy mayo on the buns. Divide the burgers among the bun bottoms and top with the slaw. Sandwich with the bun tops and serve immediately.
As someone who writes occasionally for a food blog, I’m all about celebrating the various delicious forms that edible things can take—but even I have to admit the “National Insert-Blank-Here Day” trend can get pretty ridiculous. And yet, when the blank in question is homemade cookies, who am I to argue? In honor of this oh-so-dubious holiday, I combed through the Best Bites archives for a few great recipes you can try at home, including one for Halloween-perfect homemade Oreos and even (gasp) a healthy version. Happy baking!
Bayou Bakery chef David Guas’s “Dat-o-Lanterns” give you the taste of Oreo cookies without the weird chemicals. Not quite ready for Halloween? Just skip the orange food coloring for classic white filling.
All-star pastry chef Tom Wellings (now at Fiola Mare), is behind these divine chocolate chip cookies that use two kinds of chocolate for “extra gooey texture,” plus a sprinkle of sea salt for balance. If you make these, please invite me over.
Sometimes all you want is a simple, perfect sugar cookie—and Blue Duck Tavern delivers.
Gingerbread might be more commonly associated with Christmas, but Northside Social’s chocolate gingerbread cookies are good year-round. These will please chocoholics and spice fiends alike (so bake extra). Get the recipe.
Even if you’re trying to cut down on sweets, you don’t have to give up dessert entirely. Try Well+Being’s recipe, which use whole-wheat flour and nutritious ingredients for a healthy treat that still tastes decadent.
Whether you're at the beach or on a staycation, Labor Day weekend is one of the best times to cook. The tomatoes are sweet, the berries ripe, the grill well-seasoned, and you'll find plenty of friends ready to drink and eat away the last days of August.
Here are ten of our favorite summertime recipes, including dishes from hot new restaurants, old standbys, and top food trucks.
We're addicted to this twist on the caprese. Buffalo mozzarella is marinated in a bright, citrusy blend of herbs and chilies that's also used to dress the salad. You'll never go back to balsamic again.
These deceptively potent tiki cocktails are simple to make and even easier to drink. Garnish them with little umbrellas and fruit for a beachy look.
Sure, these patties are griddled instead of grilled, but you can always tweak the cooking style if you're set on live flames. Just don't miss the American cheese, pickles, and "special sauce."
One of the best gazpachos in Washington can be found aboard José Andrés’s food truck. The silky soup gets its kick from sherry vinegar and its richness from quality Spanish olive oil.
Tacos? Good. Fried chicken? Gooood. Combine the two and you have the ultimate crowd-pleaser. Fennel slaw and spicy buttermilk dressing make for tasty toppings.
Channel your inner college kid and prepare to get tipsy off of this booze-infused melon. The main difference between now and the frat party days: quality vodka such as Belvedere—this is from a Four Seasons restaurant, after all.
An oldie but a great-y. This vegetarian/vegan appetizer requires little effort, but scores big in the flavor department.
Consider chef Haidar Karoum's dish perfect party food: Marinated chicken thighs can feed a crowd without breaking the bank, and most of the components can be made ahead. More important, it's delicious.
Skip the beef and try these juicy, rich patties kicked up with garlic, fresh mint, and cilantro. Feta takes the place of cheddar, and a topping of spinach, fennel, and more herbs brightens the burger.
Farm stands are overflowing with blueberries and blackberries, so it's prime time to whip up this divine cobbler. Serve vanilla ice cream alongside for the perfect summer dessert.
It’s rare that I eat in a restaurant and e-mail the chef immediately after for a recipe, but that’s exactly what happened after feasting on the marinated buffalo mozzarella and local tomato salad at Duke’s Grocery.
You’ll find variations on this caprese-like salad throughout the city, all summer long. Too often they’re bland, made with lackluster tomatoes, stiff mozzarella, watery balsamic, or all of the above. Chef Alex McCoy’s version is the opposite. You’ll only see it on the daily changing chalkboard menu if sweet local tomatoes are available; McCoy gets his from Potomac Farm Market. The creamy mozzarella di bufala is top-quality, and burrata makes a nice substitute if you’re really feeling decadent.
What makes the dish, besides the essential ingredients, is the toasted fennel, spicy chili, and fresh herb vinaigrette. The mixture acts both as a marinade for the cheese and the salad dressing.
The result: a vibrant take on the summertime staple.
Marinated Mozzarella and Local Tomato Salad From Duke’s Grocery
Serves 4 to 5
1 tablespoon whole fennel seeds
½ cup coarsely chopped herbs, such as chives, cilantro, Italian parsley, spring onion, and/or oregano
1½ tablespoons chopped birds eye chili, Thai chili, or serrano chili
8 cloves of garlic, chopped finely
¾ cup really nice, fruity olive oil
Zest and juice of three lemons
Salt and pepper to taste
4 balls of burrata or mozzarella di buffalo (try to find mozzarella from Campania)
4 or 5 local tomatoes
Optional: chervil, to garnish
Set a dry pan on medium high heat. Add the whole fennel seeds, tossing them and constantly moving the pan while they toast. You’ll know they’re ready when you smell the wonderful anise fragrance the seeds start to release. Remove them from the pan, let cool, and then crush them coarsely with the bottom of a heavy pan or a bowl.
In a glass bowl, mix together the chopped herbs, fennel seeds, chili, olive oil, lemon juice and zest, garlic, salt, and pepper. Let sit for about 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes, tear the cheese balls in half with your hands and toss them in the bowl with the herb vinaigrette. Let sit for another 20 to 30 minutes to absorb all of the delicious flavors and spices.
Slice your tomato. Don’t be modest. We want big, thick, juicy slices of tomato. Do this a few minutes before plating, so the tomato won’t dry out. Fan your tomatoes out on a plate or serving piece, and lightly season with salt and pepper.
Remove the cheese balls from the vinaigrette and lay them over your tomato, ripping the cheese apart a bit more as you spread it out.
Spoon some of the delicious herb vinaigrette over the cheese and tomato, making sure not to inundate the fruit with too much oil.
Garnish with chervil, a touch more salt and pepper (or more hot chili), and chow down!
Summer drinking weather is upon us, and we’re always looking for new recipes when it’s time to whip up a refreshing beverage. We asked Bar Charley cocktail master Nick Nazdin to share one of his favorite tiki cocktails: the Molokai Mule, which originated at the Kon-Tiki restaurant in Hawaii in the 1960s.
“It’s a much more citrus-heavy drink than most other tiki cocktails, which I really enjoy,” says Nazdin. “Most tiki drinks have people well on their way to the end of their night after one or two.”
The party-friendly formula is a tasty balance of fresh orange and lime juice, brandy, and plenty of rum. The only exotic ingredient you’ll see is orgeat, an almond-flavored syrup you can buy at specialty liquor stores such as Ace Beverage or online (Nazdin likes Fee Brothers). If you’d rather leave mixing to the experts, head to Bar Charley for Trader Nick’s Tiki Sundays, where you’ll find Nazdin concocting five different tiki cocktails.
Makes 1 drink
2 ounces orange juice
1 ounce lime juice
1 ounce orgeat syrup
1 ounce brandy
1 ounce silver rum
1 ounce dark rum
A heavy dash of Angostura bitters
Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker, shake, and strain over ice.
Memorial Day is a great time to get together with friends and family and enjoy the (finally) beautiful weather. It’s also a great time to try these recipes from local eateries for all kinds of holiday-friendly dishes and drinks, from indulgent burgers to refreshing milkshakes. We’ve also got tips for buying and grilling meats, if you prefer to invent your own masterpiece.
Mains and sides
Desserts and drinks
Washingtonians love their burgers. Our upcoming Cheap Eats issue, which hits stands this week, features the area’s very best in a roundup of the top 25 most delicious patties in town. We sampled three times as many, from burgers at casual chains to swanky restaurants.
The Américain at Le Diplomate bridges the gap between our favorite fast food and fine-dining versions. It tastes a little like le Big Mac with its two thin patties, “special” Thousand Island-esque sauce, pickles, and onions on a sesame-seed bun. What elevates it: quality Pat LaFrieda blend beef, fresh mayonnaise for the sauce, and house-baked brioche. Beyond that, chef Michael Abt* doesn’t get too fancy, keeping the cheese classic American. We could (and have) stopped in for this double-decker on a weekly basis.
If this juicy, messy-in-the-best-way burger has you craving more, pick up a copy of the Cheap Eats issue to find our other 24 favorites, or sign up for digital access.
Le Diplomate’s Burger Américain
2 pounds Pat LaFrieda special blend ground beef, or any blend of 80-percent lean to 20-percent fat
8 slices yellow Land O’Lakes American cheese
1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
20 dill pickle chips, preferably B&G
⅓ cup special burger sauce (see recipe below)
4 brioche burger buns, ideally with sesame seeds, halved
5 teaspoons salted butter, at room temperature
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Form eight four-ounce burger patties, roughly the shape of a hockey puck. Heavily season the burgers with salt and pepper.
Heat a large, heavy-bottom cast iron pan over high heat. When the pan just starts to smoke, add the burger patties, working in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan. Sear one side of the patty for two minutes, flip, and “smash” it flat with an offset spatula and sear the other side. Add one slice of cheese to each burger, let it melt slightly, then remove the patty. Place the patties on top of each other while resting.
Spread the butter equally on the cut side of the buns. Toast lightly in the same pan as the burger.
Place the bottom bun on the plate. Place two patties on top of each other on the bun. Lay red onions on each burger, followed by pickle chips and 5 teaspoons of special sauce. Place the other half of the bun on top and serve.
For the special burger sauce
⅓ cup mayonnaise (see recipe below)
2 teaspoons dill pickles, chopped
2 teaspoons Heinz chili sauce
1 teaspoon onion powder
Combine all of the ingredients and set aside. The sauce can be stored, covered, in the fridge.
For the mayonnaise
4 egg yolks
4 teaspoons Champagne vinegar
4 teaspoons smooth Dijon mustard
1⅓ tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1⅓ tablespoons water
2½ cups canola oil
Combine all of the ingredients except the oil in a medium bowl. Pour the blended oil in a slow, steady stream into the egg mixture, while whisking vigorously. Continue until all of the oil has been emulsified into the yolk mixture. If the mayonnaise becomes too thick, thin with the water. Set aside.
*This post has been updated from a previous version.
We wouldn’t recommend attempting the all-pork taco at home, but a fried-chicken taco? We can handle that. Boston-based chef/restaurateur Michael Schlow of the upcoming Tico on 14th Street shares his recipe prior to the Latin-influenced American eatery’s June opening.
“The inspiration came from a late-night craving,” says Schlow. “I came home hungry from work and saw tortillas and leftover pieces of fried chicken in the rather barren fridge. I also had a bulb of fennel, a red onion, a jalapeño, and some buttermilk. Ten minutes later: fried chicken tacos with fennel, red onion, and jalapeño slaw and spicy buttermilk dressing!”
As you can imagine, these crispy bird tacos taste even better made fresh. The various components take a little work but can be done ahead for a party, minus the actual frying. Don’t feel like cooking? Schlow joins other guest chefs at Graffiato’s May industry night on Monday, May 5, and will serve the fried-chicken tacos alongside shrimp ceviche for a Cinco de Mayo celebration.
Fried Chicken Tacos With Fennel Slaw and Spicy Buttermilk
Makes 4 tacos
For the chicken:
½ pound (approximately) boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 cup buttermilk
1 pinch cayenne
1 pinch salt
1 pinch black pepper
1 cup flour
½ cup cornstarch
½ cup finely ground panko bread crumbs
Special equipment: A heavy pot, canola oil, and a thermometer for frying
Cut the chicken into thin strips.
Combine buttermilk, cayenne, salt, pepper in a bowl, place chicken in the mixture, and soak for 2 to 12 hours, depending on how much time you have. The longer it soaks, the more tender and flavorful it will be.
When you’re ready to fry, set a heavy pot on the stove and heat oil until a thermometer registers 375 degrees.
Combine flour, cornstarch, and panko in another bowl.
Remove chicken from buttermilk and place in flour mix; coat evenly.
Place chicken strips in fryer and cook until golden brown, about 5 to 6 minutes.
For the fennel slaw:
½ head of fresh fennel, thinly sliced
½ red or green jalapeño, thinly sliced
¼ red onion, thinly sliced
¼ cup thinly sliced carrot
1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped
1 tablespoon lime juice
2 ounces extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients in a bowl and marinate for 1 to 2 hours in the refrigerator.
For the buttermilk dressing:
½ cup buttermilk
¼ cup sour cream
Large pinch of cayenne or dried chile de arbol powder
Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix until smooth.
To assemble the tacos:
4 six-inch corn tortillas
Cilantro and lime wedges to garnish
Char tortillas lightly on an open grill or griddle over high heat.
Cut the crispy fried chicken into small pieces and divide evenly on the tortillas.
Top with the fennel slaw, and spoon the buttermilk dressing on top.
Garnish with cilantro leaves and lime wedges (optional).
Move over, chocolate bunnies: We have a new favorite springtime treat. Cork chef Kristin Hutter debuted “drunken Peeps” last year, a house-made version of the classic marshmallow bird spiked with liqueur. Needless to say, the small dose of booze made these little chicks even more irresistible. We asked her for the current recipe, which adds limoncello to the mix.
Don’t be too intimidated by making homemade marshmallow—you just have to have a little patience for stickiness (and a candy thermometer). If playing mother hen to a gaggle of liquored-up Peeps sounds too difficult, Cork Market plans to sell the lemony confections and a Chambord-raspberry version through the weekend.
Drunken Peeps With Limoncello
Makes 20 Peeps
5 teaspoons powdered gelatin (usually 2 envelopes)
¼ cup limoncello
¼ cup water
5 ounces light corn syrup
1½ cups sugar
1⁄8 teaspoon kosher salt
Colored sugar to coat each Peep
A stand or hand mixer
4 to 5 ounces cornstarch
4 to 5 ounces powdered sugar
Dark frosting for making the Peeps’ eyes
Make the marshmallow:
Add gelatin and limoncello to a standing mixer, or if using a hand mixer, a large bowl. Allow to rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Stir to blend.
In small pot, add the water, corn syrup, sugar, and salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook until a thermometer registers 240 degrees.
Slowly pour the sugar mixture into the standing mixer or bowl with the gelatin. Whip with the whisk attachment on medium/high until the mixture is thick and stiff peaks form. Cool to room temperature.
Shape the Peeps (two methods)
Add the marshmallow mixture to a pastry bag fitted with large round tip.
Pipe peep figure onto lightly greased aluminum foil. Sprinkle immediately with your choice of colored sugar and let dry, about 2 to 3 hours. Dot each with frosting eyes if desired.
Pour marshmallow from mixer onto a half-sheet cookie tray that’s dusted with a mixture of half cornstarch and half powdered sugar.
Smooth the marshmallow with a spatula and dust the top with same cornstarch/powdered sugar mixture. Allow to rest 10 to 12 hours, covered at room temperature.
Cut into desired shapes. Dip them quickly in water or wipe them with a damp cloth in water, then dust them with colored sugar.