Tuesday, May 22 at 11 AM - Kliman Online

Where can you get a three-star experience at one-star prices? Which hot new restaurant merits the scorching hype? The answer to all these questions and more can be found Tuesdays at 11 AM on Kliman Online.

From scoping out scruffy holes in the wall to weighing the merits of four-star wanna-bes, from scouring the 'burbs and exurbs to hitting the city's streets, Todd Kliman covers a lot of territory. Winner of a James Beard Foundation Award in 2005 for the country's best newspaper column about food, Kliman is food and wine editor and restaurant critic for The Washingtonian. His work has appeared in The New Yorker, Harper's, The Oxford American, The Daily Beast and Men's Health, among others, and he has been selected four times for inclusion in the Best Food Writing anthologies. He is the author of The Wild Vine, a literary exploration of two entwined mysteries: an obscure grape that rose to prominence, only to disappear, and its present-day evangelist, a foul-mouthed transgendered multi-millionaire vintner on an obsessive quest to restore the legend of an antebellum southern doctor.

Can't wait a week to talk to Todd? Follow him on Twitter for dining reports, tips, and breaking news from the culinary world.

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W H E R E I ' M E A T I N G N O W . . .

Green Pig Bistro, Arlington

One of the best and most intriguing of the current crop of Hipster Farmhouse restaurants (dishtowel napkins, bluegrass in the air, repurposed wood and yard-sale tchochkes throughout). The chef, Scot Harlan, an alumnus of the kitchen at Inox, cooks with precision and clarity, making light of a plate of crispy pig tacos (the pig, here, is salty, crunchy matchsticks of julienned ears) and even a country-style pate. There's a fantastic drinks menu, and a not-bad selection of Virginia wines, including a Michael Shaps Cab Franc that sells for $5 a glass; it's a perfect match for the rich, porky treats.

Moa, Rockville
You'd never find it if you weren't looking for it. Situated in the fascinating industrial sector of Rockville, amid a slew of old warehouses and specialty supply stores, this cozy Korean mom 'n' pop is about as hidden as hidden gems get. The cooking is vivid and punchy--great bibimbap, served several ways, along with a parade of soups, noodle dishes and stir frys. Order a soju to wash it all down; the mango and watermelon are fresh and gently sweet, a good counterpart to the garlicky intensity of the food.

R&R Taqueria, Elkridge

Best Mexican food in the area, and it's not even close. And--it's in a gas station. Worth the drive to Elkridge.

Maple Avenue, Vienna
Some diners might be skeptical of splurging for $20 + entrees in a tiny, repurposed diner where the 8 tables are wedged together so closely the room can feel like one big dinner party when the drinks are flowing. Others might be skeptical of the menu, which bends in a dozen different directions, implying a kitchen with a scattered, be-everything-to-everyone vision -- which is to say, no vision at all. But this is a surprisingly focused restaurant -- and a surprisingly rewarding one, too, a place that feels like a personal statement, backed by an amiable staff that clearly aims to send you away smiling. The chef and owner, Tim Ma, does his part, too. He makes a mean shrimp and grits, and his beef cheek sandwich with beer battered fries is one of the best simple plates around. Don't miss the bread pudding.

Society Fair, Old Town Alexandria
I find the room garish, the prices high, the mood presuming. I'm putting this on here on the strength of two terrific sandwiches -- a fabulous baguette stacked with thin shaved ham and good mustard and lamb shoulder stuffed into a griddled flatbread with tangy yogurt and spinach -- and a superlative wine list.

Fiola, DC
Fabio Trabocchi's edge-of-Penn Quarter restaurant has put its tentative beginnings behind it. The dishes emerging from the brick-framed, herb-potted kitchen find the prodigiously talented chef moving further and further from the controlled elegance of his work at the late Maestro. They also find him cooking with a renewed confidence and conviction. The best of these plates--an astonishingly flavorful ragu of wild hare with thick bands of papardelle, a double-cut, prosciutto-wrapped veal chop with toasted hazelnuts that accent the sweetness and nuttiness of the meat, a bowl of tender meatballs in a tomato sauce that frankly puts most Italian grandmothers to shame--marry rusticity with refinement. Desserts--including a fabulous cone of sugar-dusted bomboloni, with pots of apple marmalade and cinnamon gelato--remain a rousing finish.

Sidebar, Silver Spring
Chef Diana Davila-Boldin, a Windy City native, has improved upon her Chicago dog -- grilling the link, griddling the bun and overloading the ripe, fresh toppings. The result? The best dog in Washington, and better than any Chicago dog I have ever had in Chicago. I'd give this poolhall/hipster bar/cafe a spot on the list just for that, but I also love her mini-falafel, her homemade sausages, her cod fritters, and the cochinita tacos that amount to a glorious precis of El Chucho's Cocina Superior -- Jackie Greenbaum's forthcoming "inauthentic Mexican" restaurant, in Columbia Heights.

Mintwood Place, DC
Perry's owner Saied Azali was lucky to land Cedric Maupillier, formerly the chef at Central and before that the chef de cuisine at Citronelle, for his rusticky new bistro. The Toulon native is doing typically great work--cranking out lovingly faithful renditions of such bistro classics as cassoulet (see if you can finish it without two glasses of wine) and steak tartare (the tiny, crunchy tater tots on top are a clever allusion to his old boss, Michel Richard) as well as offering up some sly, smart takes on tradition (frogs' legs with black walnut romesco, a lamb tongue moussaka). There's a whole boneless dorade with picholine olives and braised fennel that's a knockout--beautifully conceived, perfectly executed.

Meaza, Arlington
The largest Ethiopian restaurant in the country, according to owner Meaza Zemedu, if you count the butcher shop, grocery and banquet room in addition to the dining room itself. Which wouldn't mean much at all if Zemedu wasn't a talented cook who commands such a focused and consistent kitchen. Her wats, or long-simmered stews, are remarkable for their depth and length. The kitfo is superb, akin to a great beef tartare in its blending and balance of spices.

Cork, DC
DC's best wine bar is eating better than it has since its early months, thanks to new hire Rob Weland. The erstwhile Poste chef has brought a seasonal focus to the menu, a welcome development for all those who regard the place as a regular in their dining-out rotation. More important is his great gift for making complex combinations feel inevitable and for imbuing simple arrangements with subtle textures and touches.

East Pearl, Rockville
A superlative addition to the unofficial Chinatown of northern Rockville, this cheery, subtly modish restaurant is turning out uncommonly clean-tasting versions of standard Hong Kong-style fare, including shrimp dumpling soup, shrimp with walnuts, and soyed chicken--all spectacular. And don't miss a Shanghai-style noodle dish that brings together angel hair, roast pork, shrimp, green onions and a generous spoonful of yellow curry powder into a light, greaseless and remarkably vivid whole.

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This Week's Contest: Describe Your Dream Memorial Day Picnic

We all fantasize about holidays--never more so than mid-morning on a grey Tuesday. With Memorial Day around the corner and summer grilling season about to enter full swing, we want to hear your ultimate Memorial Day Picnic Fantasy.

Dream big--maybe Mike Isabella stops by to roast you a leg of lamb in that Big Green Egg you magically acquired, while your ex-wife--newly besotted with you--sips sangria courtesy of a beverage bar from Jaleo. Combine your favorite foods and experiences to whip up a dream backyard bash that inspires Todd to offer you Molly Moon's Homemade Ice Cream: Sweet Seasonal Recipes for Ice Creams, Sorbets, and Toppings Made with Local Ingredients. It's full of inspiring recipes for capping off the perfect picnic.

Remember though: Todd loves details. Don't be shy about stuffing your entry with ideas and adding lots of rich description. Your effort will be sweetly rewarded.

Naeem:

Curry Mantra = pleasant surprise.

I usually end up going to Ravi Kabob in Arlington when I am craving kabobs or karahi but I will now add Curry Mantra to that list for their wonderful and tasty biryani. I have not tasted biryani that good in a long time.

From my experiences, the only good biryani was at dawat's (dinner party(s)) where the lady of the house had spent the day making biryani and other wonderful dishes. Most restaurants growing up did not serve good biryani.

Curry Mantra's biryani was flavorful with each bite. It was so good that I woke up Saturday morning and had the leftovers for breakfast. The atmosphere and decor in the restaurant was soothing as well. Apparently on Friday and Saturday nights there is a live tabla and flute player, who play in the background without disturbing diners as they eat. With that said, it is time for my co-workers and I to head over to Curry Mantra and try out their lunch buffet. As always love the weekly chat!

Todd Kliman:

That’s good to hear.

And don’t miss the saag paneer and the baingan bhartha next time. Superb.

I recently heard from Asad Sheikh re: the disappearance of the superlative dosas, the best in the area.

If you didn’t get out there to try them, you missed out on one of the great dishes in the area.

Sheikh tells me the fire inspector of Falls Church asked him to take out his 24 x 24 griddle because it was 9 inches outside of the existing hood — a violation, he adds, that was overlooked prior to the inspection that took place just before the restaurant opened. The existing hood, he says, does not have enough space to hold a 24 x 24 griddle. The solution? Redesigning the hood, which is very expensive and Sheikh says he cannot swing the cost at the moment.

On a more positive note, the restaurant has recently celebrated its first anniversary and also expanded the dining room, more than doubling the existing seating to 125.

But man oh man, those dosas …

DC, DC:

Manning the grill has to be Roberto Donna, firing up his pork sandwich from the former Galileo Grill. (Since this is a fantasy, all back taxes have been paid and he has made right with his employees and suppliers). I'll probably need to do this while Roberto is not looking, but will need some Uncle Brutha's hot sauce to give the sandwich an extra kick.

I'd have to get the gentlemen from Stillwater Artisanal Ales down from Baltimore with a nice summer ale - something with a hint of lemon? - brewed specially for the occasion in conjunction with DC Brau. How to start the meal? Nothing says summer like fresh tomatoes, and nothing is as refreshing as a cold serving of gazpacho. It seems cliched, but that has to come from Jose Andres. And now some dessert - not my primary focus, so let's keep it simple. I'll have the folks from Gifford's bring over some ice cream, under one condition - it's got to be the original Gifford's.

And lastly, it's not a summer party unless Chuck Brown is playing. And because it's a dream, DC hasn't lost its heart and soul, and instead he's alive and well and providing a live soundtrack to the best Memorial Day picnic ever.

Todd Kliman:

Chuck!

Wind him up …

So many great concerts, so many fun memories …

(Strange week. Chuck Brown, Donna Summer, Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau, one right after another … )

Any reference to the Godfather is going to speak to me, but I love the rest of the lineup, too, and its mix of memory and desire.

And I don’t think calling for a gazpacho from Jaleo is cliched at all — it’s one of the better gazpachos around.

Great job, DC, DC …

Who’s gonna try to top it —?

Rockville, MD:

As a vegetarian for 10+ years, I also loved the vegetarian picks in the Best Bites blog. Vegetarians like good food, too! However, there are not many recommendations from Maryland. Any suggestions in the Rockville/Bethesda area?

Todd Kliman:

Let’s see …

In Bethesda …

I like the spanikopita at Yamas Mediterranean Grill, a place that I used to feel strongly about and now feel pretty lukewarm about. Some of the food has lost its zip, but as I say — I still do like the spanikopita.

Bistro Provence has a clafoutis of tomato, Parmesan and onion that I like. Also an asparagus salad and an asparagus soup (with Parmesan custard) I like. The chef, Yannick Cam, is excellent, generally, with vegetables. His vegetarian selection, while small, is very good; not at all a slot-filler.

I love the tomato pie at Haven Pizzeria, with just a few wisps of cheese. Add anything in the way of toppings, and it’s not nearly the same.

In Rockville …

Yuan Fu is a good, all-veg Chinese restaurant — I like their version of kung pao, and also their rendition of soft shell crabs (deep-fried eggplant). You can dine there for months without duplicating yourself.

What else …

Mushroom ravioli in pistachio cream sauce at Il Pizzico.

Curries and breads at Spice X-ing.

The trio of dips at Cava.

Congee at East Pearl.

What am I missing … ?

A Nostalgic Picnic:

For some reason, Todd, your request hit my core really hard. Perhaps, since it is Memorial Day, and its intent is to honor those who served in the American wars, but really, it makes me want to honor those close to me who have passed away; a closure of sorts. So, my ideal picnic would let both of my grandmothers appear magically for a day.

I get to spend the morning at the grocery store with them, choosing ingredients indigenous to their province (maternal from Qingdao, paternal from Zhejiang), teach me how to pick and choose the ingredients, and then we would spend rest of the morning and early afternoon, cooking and prepping together and listening to stories while the meal cooked (along with a bottle of gaoliang in the background).

Then I can introduce them to their great-grandson (whom they've not met), and along with the rest of my mom and siblings, reunite on a gigantic picnic blanket under perfect weather, at a serene park, eating and having all the great-grandchildren playing in the background. Afterwards, the adults can all brew an old-fashioned pot of tea, enjoy it while everyone noshes on fresh fruits and just talk. Talk and catch up until my grandmothers have to walk back to the sunsets and closes out the scene with tired children and smiles on our faces. That would be nice.

Todd Kliman:

I love it.

A perfect picnic.

Thanks for chiming in and tapping into your past with us …

I’m guessing you’d make dumplings—? … I spent last Memorial Day with a couple of friends from China, and dumplings were the order of the day — ideal, since the weather was gray. We made (ok, they made) 140 dumplings from scratch, and we opened up some beer and wine (no shaoxing, but that would’ve been great) and ate until we were too stuffed to move.