Our affection for this bistro derives in part from its lived-in
soulfulness, which calls to mind the great neighborhood restaurants in New
Orleans. A meal in the cozy confines of the dining room is somehow more
than the elements that make up the plate.
Which isn’t to say those elements aren’t fine in their own
right. Chef/owner John Manolatos apprenticed for years under founder Ann
Cashion and is a stickler for butchering his own meats and trolling
markets for what’s in season. He incorporates a sometimes-too-wide set of
influences—French, Japanese, Indian, Greek—to keep things fresh. But his
best dishes, such as a spit-roasted goat with grilled flatbread, feel as
timeless as the restaurant. On weekends, the top-notch brunch is one of
the best ways to appreciate Adams Morgan in the light of day.
Don’t miss: Mezzethakia (an assortment of dips);
foie gras with poached pear; spice-rubbed rib eye; whole dorade; smashed
fingerlings with garlic aïoli; chocolate-and-caramel tart.
Open: Tuesday through Saturday for dinner, Sunday for
brunch and dinner. Expensive.