100 Very Best Restaurants 2014: Corduroy

No. 16 on this year's list.
Tuna with hijiki and sushi rice. Photograph by Scott Suchman.
Tuna with hijiki and sushi rice. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

Tom Power’s quiet and understated Shaw restaurant stands out the same way a well-tailored jacket does. If his Modern American menu seldom changes, it’s because he’d rather win you over with consistency than with novelty.

His red-snapper bisque has such a deep, lingering flavor, it seems wrong to call it soup. His rendition of lumpia, a Filipino spring roll, might be the best fried food you’ll eat all year, if it weren’t for the fact that you might segue from that to the stellar soft-shell crabs. Wine reductions have disappeared from many menus, but Power reminds us what we’re missing when we drag a slice of crisped duck breast through one of his lustrously rich sauces. Note to the budget-minded: You can dine on the three-course prix fixe menu at the upstairs bar for $30—a steal.

Open: Monday through Saturday for dinner.

Don’t miss: Tuna tartare; tuna with sushi rice; roast and confit guinea hen; chocolate tart with banana; baked chocolate sabayon.

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