There are two classes of pizza at Peter Pastan and Tim Giamettie's always-packed pizza parlor. Listed as D.O.C. pizzas--meaning they are certified as authentic Neapolitan pizzas by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana--are the Marinara, the Margherita, and the Margherita Extra. Ingredients for the dough and toppings as well as the method of cooking must meet strict standards, and the result is wonderful pizza. Not every pizza, even in Naples, is authentic, so don't neglect the other pies, simply labeled Pizze, which include a wonderful Etna with eggplant confit, a Vongole with cockles in the shell, and Abruzzese, with little meatballs.

There's a small menu beyond pizza--a few Little Things like salt-cod croquettes and a selection of salads. More recently there's been a selection of specials that change every day, mostly panini.

Be prepared to wait for a table, and not very comfortably. There are a few seats at the bar in back, but waiting customers mostly mill around near the front door.