China Garden is on the mezzanine floor of an office building in Rosslyn. Luckily, the large Chinese-American community in the area knows where to find the place, which offers some of the best Cantonese cooking around. The excellent weekend dim sum draws large crowds.

Instead of appetizers, which rarely shine in Chinese restaurants, try ordering one of the elaborate soups for two or more. Sliced winter melon with chicken, or mustard greens with roast duck, are pleasing choices. The menu is big and ranges from the standard Chinese-American dishes to exotic combinations. Consider pan-fried whole flounder Cantonese style, crispy duck stuffed with mashed taro, shredded chicken with chili and black-bean sauce, grilled shrimp with the head and shell left on, huge baked oysters with black-bean sauce, and sizzling chicken with either eggplant or tofu with salty fish in a casserole. There are excellent thin, medium, and thick noodle dishes and a large variety of vegetable dishes, such as baby bok choy and mixed vegetables Buddhist-style (totally vegetarian with few customary ingredients).

China Garden, 1100 Wilson Blvd., Rosslyn (Arlington); 703-525-5317.