This is a homey place where regulars hang out, watch television, have a drink, and now and then stroll over to the serving counter for something to eat. With a half-dozen TV sets spread around the dining area, it's a good place to settle in and watch a game.

Because many of the dishes improve by steeping in their juices, the steam tables do no harm. The other cooking method is frying, which is done to order, so if that's your choice, relax and expect to eat a leisurely meal. There is much to enjoy. Good fried dishes are whole croaker, filets of whiting and sea trout, chicken, and pork chops, which are broad and thin with excellent breading. Meaty ribs, pork barbecue, and macaroni and cheese are good nonfried alternatives. Patrons who order a dinner platter rather than a sandwich get two sides. No surprises: Collard greens, black-eyed peas, mashed potatoes with gravy, and yams are popular. For finishing off the meal, sweet-potato pie, cakes, and fruit cobblers all have their followings.