The dining room, full of gleaming dark wood, is decorated with extravagant floral arrangements. The raw bar has an elaborate array of offerings. The restaurant is noisy: The close proximity of tables can lead you to believe that your table is part of a larger party. An outdoor veranda offers a less formal setting in nice weather. Inside or out, you can count on good service.

Shellfish is a specialty. It is good but not cheap. A half dozen clams are $8, a half lobster $15. You might start with the buttermilk-fried calamari with a Serrano-chili-lime dipping sauce, a plate of seared tuna and tuna tartare, or sweet garlic soup with sourdough croutons. Good seafood main courses are the Eastern Shore crabcakes with corn relish; sea scallops poached in butter and scallop with a sauté of mushrooms, baby bok choy, and salmon roe; pan-seared halibut with green lentils and asparagus in anchovy butter; and the medallions of tuna--thick triangles of tuna with tasso ham, wild mushrooms, and cream. Meat fanciers will enjoy the grilled New York strip steak with a bleu-cheese-and-Port sauce and the roasted poussin. Desserts are good, with chocolate concoctions heading the list.