June 2004: Cafe Ole

By Thomas Head

This handsome Mediterranean bistro is perfectly located for a meal before or after a movie at the Cineplex Odeon theaters around the corner, but it's so good that you might find yourself looking for other excuses to go to Tenleytown.

This handsome Mediterranean bistro is perfectly located for a meal before or after a movie at the Cineplex Odeon theaters around the corner, but it's so good that you might find yourself looking for other excuses to go to Tenleytown. For most diners, the centerpiece of the menu is the selection of pan-Mediterranean mezze. The menu recommends three per person as a meal, but most people would find two sufficient--you can always order more if you're still hungry.

Among the highlights are a terrific tagine of lamb served over couscous; a grilled lamb kebab served over a purée of roasted eggplant and pepper; grilled Merguez sausages with tomatoes over garlic mashed potatoes; and for vegetarians, a grilled portobello mushroom topped with caramelized onions and goat cheese. An inexpensive and well-chosen wine list works well with this spicy cooking.

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