This fine seafood restaurant has been a training ground for area chefs. Early this summer, Bobby Beard left to take over the kitchen at New Heights, and sous chef Tom Meyer became head chef. The restaurant has maintained its standards through these changes because of the management skills of owner Regine Palladin.

The menu, which changes daily according to the availability of ingredients, is written on a blackboard. First-course choices at a recent meal included perhaps the best brandade in the city, a flavorful tuna tartare, and delicious grilled fresh sardines. The star of the main courses was a grilled whole flounder. Scallops were perfectly cooked. The wine list is well chosen and reasonably priced.

Pesce, 2016 P St., NW; 202-466-3474. Open Monday through Friday for lunch, daily for dinner.