A cheerful fireplace and wood-beamed ceiling, a comforting plate of cassoulet, good wine at reasonable prices, a friendly host--you might think you've stumbled into a French country inn rather than a restaurant on Georgetown's M Street. For almost 30 years proprietor Gerard Pain has been taking care of his customers with a rare combination of charm and attentive service.

Recent treats from chef Patrick Orange's menu have included a perfectly cooked John Dory, a hearty rabbit casserole, and calf's brain with brown butter sauce. Many regulars go in for the daily specials--crepes filled with crabmeat on Tuesday, couscous on Wednesday, and cassoulet on Thursday. It's always hard to resist the profiteroles for dessert--crisp shells of pastry filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with chocolate sauce.