THE SCENE. Few people come to these simple, spare dining rooms for an evening's entertainment--they're crammed with singles, couples, and families looking for a quick and delicious pizza before heading off somewhere else.

WHAT YOU'LL LOVE. Watching the pizza makers, who display a remarkable ability to stretch the dough to the breaking point and a keen sense of when to fetch a pie from the oven. The results are even better to behold: thin, flavorful crusts, judiciously portioned toppings, and often inspired combinations of ingredients. And few pizzas in this or any town are more dependable.

WHAT YOU WON'T. Long waits for a table at peak hours.

BEST DISHES. Set combinations--the spicy Atomica with salami and red-pepper flakes, the double-carb-loaded Genovese with potatoes and pesto, or the simple Margherita, which needs nothing other than tomato, basil, and mozzarella--are usually superior to any flavor combinations you might create on your own.