When Yannick Cam's restaurant Provence closed, chef Robert Wiedmaier bought the place, including dishes, pots, and pans. Six years later, Marcel's is a success reflecting Wiedmaier's personality and style of cooking. One improvement has been the addition of draperies and other sound-absorbing materials to make the place warmer and quieter. New chairs, carpets for the tile floors, and an awning in front are said to be on the way.

An American who grew up in Europe, Wiedmaier trained in the Netherlands and Belgium. An appetizer crepinette, wrapped in caul fat and filled with pheasant mousseline, is a wonderful introduction to his style, both refined and full of robust flavor. It almost tops his marvelously light boudin blanc.

Marcel's does very well with game. Loin of venison was cooked beautifully rare and served with a purée of pear and turnips. Saddle of rabbit is paired with foie gras and a grain-mustard sauce. Pastry chef Dedier Derouet's lemon tart provides a lovely contrast at the end of the meal.