June 2005 Guajillo

By David Dorsen

The customary appetizers of nachos, queso fundidto, tamales, and guacamole are very good.

If you arrive early for a meal at Ray's the Steaks, the steakhouse next door, consider relaxing with one of this restaurant's large margaritas. It may not be the perfect introduction to a sirloin dinner, but you'll get a good bargain. The drinks are huge, the salsa tangy, and tortilla chips crisp.

Those who stay to dine will find that the menu is not long, but it covers plenty of ground. The customary appetizers of nachos, queso fundidto, tamales, and guacamole are very good. For the main course, the star of the menu is chicken mole, made with a complex sauce of unsweetened chocolate, chilies, cumin, cinnamon, and other spices coating a chicken breast. Its texture and intensity make it a standout. The standard main courses of tacos, enchiladas, burritos, and chimichangas measure up to the competition, as do sautéed shrimp and fajitas, whether steak, chicken, or shrimp. The beverage list includes lots of tequilas.

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